03 Grand Prix, remote start

Yes the immobilizer system is a fuel type one. You have to hook it up like the 2000 model. When you are programming the keys you actually need two valid keys to program in a third new key on almost every one of the these cars. The instructions from GM aren't 100% correct. Turn the first valid key on for 3 seconds. Remove it and turn the second valid key on for about 5 seconds. Then insert the new key into the igntion and turn it on for about 10 seconds, then turn it off. Wait 30 seconds and then try the new key again. Unless the vehicle has had too many keys alrady programmed into it, this should work. If it doesn't, or you don't have two valid keys that will start the car, a GM dealer will have to program the third new key. The key can't really be used on another car, because it won't be cut correctly to fit the igntion switch cylinder.sparky

Sparky - Thanks. The bypass is working fine. Also got the new key to accept programming and it's working great after several attempts. I really appreciate the input & help from everyone who assisted on this one. This forum is very beneficial and educational - glad I joined up, and I only hope I can help others as much as they have helped me. Thanks again.The Badger

I am glad I could help. sparky

Still having a problem with the '03 Grand Prix.Installed R/S and DEI 457GW Immobilizer bypass.The car remote starts and runs perfectly.No security lights come and no problems at all -UNLESS I arm the factory security. When I arm the OEM security system (regardless of how I arm it), the OEM alarm goes off the instant it is remote started. THE CAR STARTS and RUNS with no security lights coming on, but the horn blows and lights flash.I can get the alarm to quit with the key in the door or with the factory remote unlock button, but the remote for the R/S will not unlock the doors or allow me to disarm the system unless I go through about 3 lock/unlock cycles. (The R/S remote is a single button lock/unlock). Keep in mind the car still starts and runs under R/S during this time.Obviously, the factory alarm disarm wire from the R/S is not disarming the security before it remote starts. However, I've triple-checked the wiring of the disarm wire on the R/S and the pulse on that wire. It gives a short negative pulse just before remote starting, just as it should - and it's tied to the ORANGE / black wire at the BCM that goes negative when turning the key in the lock to unlock. I've even tried using a double pulse and long pulse on unlock, but neither helped. The R/S remote locks and unlocks the doors fine and even disarms the security as it should - until I arm the system and remote start the car. Only then is when the alarm goes off.Any suggestions anyone? The Badger

Correction to the above: The immobilizer bypass I'm using is a NOT a DEI 457GW - it is a DEI 555GW. The Badger

You didn't list what you are using for a remote starter. It is possible that the disarm output isn't activating prior to start up. Use a meter to confirm that it is. The disarm must be the very first thing the r/s activates otherwise the alarm will sound as soon as any power is applied to the car's electrical circuits. Some r/s units only pulse the disarm wire during the unlock cycle and you may need to create a circuit to simulate this, or program your r/s to unlock/disarm before starting and then relock right after start up.sparky

Hey - the '03 Grand Prix is finally out of the shop with a happy customer!!! The R/S is a no-name brand that was a liquidation item from NAPA Auto Parts. The customer got it as a Christmas gift. Yep., the FASD wire was the first thing I checked. It was giving a negative pulse just prior to remote start activation. It was also functioning properly when the doors were unlocked. The problem turned out to be at the plug going into the ECM. We battled this problem lots of hours to figure it out, but here's the bottom line: The car has had an electical parasite problem that drains the battery (in approx. 12 hrs.) ever since she purchased it from a local dealer. The dealer just replaced the battery, but the problem is still there, just not as bad because the new battery has more umph. Anyway, remember that this car needed re-programmed to option 3 so it would arm from the doors and the remotes? Now we all know why they had programmed it to work only from the factory remote. Besides the bad connections between the ECM and the plug, the ECM has internal problems. Whenever the car was armed, neither the unlock button on the door nor the new remote would unlock the doors. When the car was remote started, it got around the immobilizer bypass and ran, but the alarm would go off. Then you couldn't get it to unlock or stop honking unless you used the OEM remote or put the key in the lock and unlocked the door. We reprogrammed the OEM security system and disabled it. The R/S works great, the car locks and unlocks with any remote, either door switch, or the key. In this case, the customer did not use the security anyway, and preferred to have the R/S. My only other concern is that the ECM could have further issues or cause big problems in the future. Time will tell. Thanks again for your input - very helpful.The Badger

Cars like that I have learned to run away from, not walk, as fast as I can. The headaches aren't worth the money. You end up working for free to prove the problems aren't yours. Hopefully it will never come back again and consider it a lesson learned. It's good you stayed with it until you fixed it though.sparky