06 Dodge Ram Diesel Remote Start problem

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Steven Kephart

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Joined: November 06, 2003

Location: Oregon, United States

Posted: February 24, 2006 at 2:23 AM / IP Logged

Hey guys.

At work, we have been having troubles installing remote start systems in the new Ram diesels. One of the other installers did one tonight and we found the e-brake light on, the airbag light on, and when started with a key, the engine would die after only a few seconds. However when remote started, the engine would stay running, even after turning off the alarm control. The customer needed to leave, so we pulled the fuses in the alarm, and everything went back to normal. I also found out that one of the other installers did one a while ago with problems as well, but with different lights on than this one and without the starter issue. Does anyone know of any tricks that are needed for the new Rams? If it helps, I know he installed a Clifford alarm, a bypass module requiring a chipped key (probably a 556UW), a door lock interface, and a pulse time generator.

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dfiddy

Copper - Posts: 162

Joined: August 17, 2002

Location: Canada

Posted: February 24, 2006 at 2:37 AM / IP Logged

Make sure that you wired your accessory and 2nd start relay correctly with the right ohm resistors. I've used a PATS CHRYSLER 04+ for transponder and 2nd accessory and 2nd start. Works like a charm.Just use relays and reisitors for locks/factory security. What type of remote starter are you installing? What are you using for transponder bypass? How many keys do you have to start the Ram? Do they all start it? Anythings else that you can tell us will help us troubleshoot it.

Steven Kephart

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Joined: November 06, 2003

Location: Oregon, United States

Posted: February 24, 2006 at 3:14 AM / IP Logged

Sorry, I wasn't the one doing the install. The installer doing it is master certified with over 12 years experience. He knows the Rams very well. It just seems that the 06 has been giving us difficulty. I know the alarm/starter is a Clifford. I don't believe it is a two- way alarm though. Most likely the bypass module he is using is a DEI 556UW. He most likely used the resistors specified by Directechs. The remote start works, so that proves the key installed in that module is coded correctly. Plus the original key works fine when the alarm was disabled, so yes both keys start it. It's just that the engine shuts off after a few seconds when started with the original key while the alarm is powered up.

extreme1

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Joined: February 12, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: February 24, 2006 at 9:24 AM / IP Logged

a. the bypass is staying powered up when the alarm is powered, trace the ground when running and see if it's active or if there's more than one item using that line, you may need a simple diode to keep things isolated.

b. the airbag/brake lights are becuase the 2nd ign/acc are getting the wrong resistance. I have found 510ohm is what is needed to get it to work properly.

Shaughn Murley

Install Manager, Dealer Services

Visions Electronics

Red Deer, Alberta

Velocity Motors

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Joined: March 08, 2002

Location: Manitoba, Canada

Posted: February 24, 2006 at 9:58 AM / IP Logged

This member had the same problem with the no start issue with the key:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73359&get=last

It's the bypass module still inducing a signal to the Sentry system while starting. The other error lights are as stated in the other posts..... just incorrect resistor values.

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

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Steven Kephart

Platinum - Posts: 1,737

Joined: November 06, 2003

Location: Oregon, United States

Posted: February 24, 2006 at 12:24 PM / IP Logged

Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate the help. It looks like Directechs recommended a 180 ohm resistor on that starter wire. I'll let him know to try the higher value when the customer comes back in, as well as the diode isolation.

meh66

Copper - Posts: 266

Joined: October 26, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: February 24, 2006 at 1:03 PM / IP Logged

How about using a CAN-SL. I have not done this vehicle yet, but I used my first GM-SL yesterday on a 2004 Chevy Impala and everything worked fine. Here is the link to that module. http://www.autoland.ca/byPassModule/byPassShowByVehicle.asp

MEH66

"Car Performance and Mobile Electronic Enthusiats"

Steven Kephart

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Joined: November 06, 2003

Location: Oregon, United States

Posted: February 24, 2006 at 10:20 PM / IP Logged

Unfortunately we can only install products Car Toys sells.

Well, the customer came back today. It turns out the problem with the vehicle dying with the key was because the ignition (pink) wire on the bypass module was connected, and it wasn't supposed to be. The wire list in the instructions specified that wire to be connected, but the diagram showed it as "unused", so I can see where the confusion came from.

He tried the 510 ohm resistor and that didn't get rid of the trouble lights. I'm not sure if the problem was solved when the customer left.

wiretapper

Copper - Posts: 166

Joined: December 11, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: February 25, 2006 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged

[QUOTE=meh66]How about using a CAN-SL. I have not done this vehicle yet, but I used my first GM-SL yesterday on a 2004 Chevy Impala and everything worked fine. Here is the link to that module. http://www.autoland.ca/byPassModule/byPassShowByVehicle.asp[/QUOTE]

GMSL works real nice. I had two CANSL's not work properly. So much for those.

Steven Kephart

Platinum - Posts: 1,737

Joined: November 06, 2003

Location: Oregon, United States

Posted: February 26, 2006 at 2:02 AM / IP Logged

So does anyone know what resistance to use to get rid of the airbag light and brake light? We don't want to throw out miscelaneous resistances at the computer and screw something up permanently.

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06 Dodge Ram Diesel Remote Start problem

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