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How to Upgrade the Big Three


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mystereobangs 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: April 19, 2007 at 8:20 PM / IP Logged  
Okay thanks for the info..
Well I'm glad to say that I upgraded my Big 3 and replaced my alternator(with stock alt..105 amps) today.
I bought regular 2 gauge Duralast Premium battery cable from Autozone for around 30 bucks.
This is what I did------
1. I ran a separate negative battery cable from my batttery to a spot on a metal crossbar.(I drilled a hole)
2. I ran 2 gauge battery cable from the alternator to the positive battery post( I didn't put a fuse in yet , but I plan to add a 150 amp fuse within the next couple of days).
3. I ran a 2 Gauge negative battery cable from my engine manifold(block) to my alternator screw..(Not the positive screw)
I fully charged my battery.
Started the car and looked at my battery meter on my pioneer deck and it read 14.4 volts at first( I assuming because the battery was fully charged). But I then drove around and played my system loud and my voltage stayed at around 13.8-14.0 volts or so, except for deep bass drops which dropped the voltage to about 13.4-13.5 volts for a fraction of a second or so..
Okay now at night time with my fog and headlights running and the heat on low, my voltage dropped to a steady 13.4-13.5 or so but with deep bass drops it dropped between 12.7-13.0 for a quick second..
So what do you abou this? Can some analyze this and give me some feedback please!
Oh and the only thing that I messed up was my belt tesioner.. for some reason it makes a lot of noise now(rattle, sometimes squeal). It's quiet most of the time but sometimes it can get a little loud.. Why is it causing this noise?
Thanks for the feedback my fellow bassheads.,.
Pioneer DEH-P6800MP
5.25 kicker fronts
6 1/2 kicker rear
Directed D1200 Amp
2 Directed Audio SX Subwoofers
mystereobangs 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: April 19, 2007 at 8:27 PM / IP Logged  
oh and also should I add my capacitor to my system?
Pioneer DEH-P6800MP
5.25 kicker fronts
6 1/2 kicker rear
Directed D1200 Amp
2 Directed Audio SX Subwoofers
jmelton86 
Gold - Posts: 1,228
Gold spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: April 19, 2007 at 8:56 PM / IP Logged  

The tensioner is about to give. Replace that and the belt to ensure max alt. output.

You said you used the Duralast cable instead of audio cable? Those cables aren't half as good as audio power cables. The 2g is about equivelant to 4g.

2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
mystereobangs 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: April 19, 2007 at 9:00 PM / IP Logged  
Oh, I didnt know that...Well with the cables they are there now now so I'm not replacing them. I''m pretty sure I got more current flowing now right either way.?? Since I do have extra wires ?
Pioneer DEH-P6800MP
5.25 kicker fronts
6 1/2 kicker rear
Directed D1200 Amp
2 Directed Audio SX Subwoofers
mystereobangs 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: April 19, 2007 at 9:02 PM / IP Logged  
What happens when tensioner gives? And I'm still getting more current right then before with the duralast cables right?
Pioneer DEH-P6800MP
5.25 kicker fronts
6 1/2 kicker rear
Directed D1200 Amp
2 Directed Audio SX Subwoofers
jmelton86 
Gold - Posts: 1,228
Gold spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: April 19, 2007 at 9:21 PM / IP Logged  

Oh, okay. I didn't realized you added those to the exsisting wiring. My 'b'. Since you didn't chunk the old wiring this should be fine.

When the tensioner is making noise like that, it's not keeping the belt as tight as it should be. This means that the belt is possibly slipping. When the belt slips, the pulleys aren't being turned as they should therefore the alt. possibly might not be charging like it should. This could be the reason the voltage drops so much. I have a 105amp alt in my cavalier, too and my lights don't dim. I have a max audio system draw of 102.5 amps. I try not to use any other acc. than I need to when I crank up my music. I literally drive around cold in the winter and hot in the summer (windows down on both occasions), just to be able to turn it up w/out worrying about my alt. failing.

Change the belt and tensioner. The belt goes for 21.26 here at Napa, I don't think we sell the tensioner but it should be about $50.

2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
mystereobangs 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: April 19, 2007 at 11:13 PM / IP Logged  
The belt is nice and tight on there with less then .5 inches of slack. I don't know if it loosens up when I drive it though.. Are the tensioner easy to change.? I'm hoping all I have to do is unloose the 1 bolt, remove the tensioner, replace with new one and tighten bolt back in..
Pioneer DEH-P6800MP
5.25 kicker fronts
6 1/2 kicker rear
Directed D1200 Amp
2 Directed Audio SX Subwoofers
jmelton86 
Gold - Posts: 1,228
Gold spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: April 23, 2007 at 8:50 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry, usually they're that easy to change. It does depend on the placement, though. Like on my G-friends' '98 Saturn SL1, I had to remove the inner fender liner in order to get to it.

With less than 1/2" of slack, it seems fine, you sure it's the tensioner? -Hopefully not the alt.

2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
tagminion 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: April 28, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: April 28, 2007 at 8:19 PM / IP Logged  
ok i was looking at doing the upgrade to my 87 pontiac 6000 =] .... but ive run into sort of a delema i cant find where the alt positive goes im thinking it goes into a relay thats on the drivers side under a cover...so basicaly if thats where it is should i run the thicker gauge into the relay or straight to the battery? ive been really reluctant to run it straight to the battery seeing as it dosent seem to directly go there now....also i was going to be adding a dry or gel battery int he back what would be the appropriate wattage needed in this application for the isolator? and what would be the ideal gauge of wire going from the batterys/alt to the isolator? if someone could help me out this would be very much appreciated thanks
still_walkin 
Silver - Posts: 644
Silver spacespace
Joined: April 18, 2007
Location: California, United States
Posted: May 06, 2007 at 4:31 AM / IP Logged  
i was looking at the big 3 method and  i saw many versions to it my question is when going straight from the battery  to the alternator (positive) is a fuse required ive seen that written off and on . also the three are negitive batt terminal to chasis. 2nd battery (positive) to alternator and third negitve to engine block ground. on the third one ive seen two verisons to the third they were negitve to engine block ground and alternator to engine block ground. in brief words which is the correct way thanks 
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