the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

Soldering heavy gauge wire


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
1998chevy1500 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 12, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 27, 2006 at 6:31 PM / IP Logged  
I just finished installing a remote start in my truck, soldering all of the joints for a good connection. However my soldering iron just didn't have the power to properly melt the solder into the joints on the ignition wires, it just kind of blobed the solder on top of the joint. To fix it I took a little pocket torch lighter that puts out a nice little hot blue flame and heated the joint with it. It seemed to work nicely, after heating the joint for about 15 seconds the solder started to liquify and wick into the connection. What I am wondering about is the excess amount of the rosin (I blieve thats what its called) that appeared on the surface of the joint. I don't know if thats a bad thing, or what exactly even caused it. I know the joint lookes a lot better this way than with the solder melted on top of the joint, but the excessive amount of buildup on the surface of the joint has me a little concerned. Oh, and for "heat shielding" I also used an old CD that I found on the floor so that I didn't melt any of the other wires in the process.
So after all that what I really want to know is this something that I should be concerend about or something that is somewhat natural when soldering larger gauge wire properly?
Here are the pictures, sorry about them being a little blurry.
Soldering heavy gauge wire -- posted image.
Soldering heavy gauge wire -- posted image.
Thankx
Conrad
P.S. Not that it really matters but it was in a 1998 Chevy K1500, but the rules do say list the year and model.
genehewett 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2003
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: February 27, 2006 at 7:36 PM / IP Logged  
That is what its suspose to do. This is to protect the connection from contaminants that are in the air.
1998chevy1500 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 12, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 27, 2006 at 9:04 PM / IP Logged  
Good to know. I've seen a little bit of it form on the surface of joints before, but just never this much.
Thankx
Conrad
kohara73 
Copper - Posts: 192
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 08, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: February 27, 2006 at 9:07 PM / IP Logged  
Those little pocket torches are the BEST.  I do every install with one.
Keith
bazzgazm 
Copper - Posts: 113
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 06, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 27, 2006 at 9:16 PM / IP Logged  
That gold would be the sign of a cold solder joint=)
Tips for next time.
1: Invest in a set of garder and bender automatic strippers(great up to 10 gauge) 14.99
2: Invest in a simple weller 120v (100/140w) soldering gun. (24.99)
3: strip the wire back, Poke a hole in the center, wrap tight, Then solder.
Not criticizing your work, Consider this some free knowledge from someone with way too many remote starts.
otherwise, At least you soldered
dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 27, 2006 at 10:25 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah, soldering gun is the thing to use for that type of soldering. An open flame overheats and oxidizes the wires, so it's not the best way to go-
1998chevy1500 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 12, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 27, 2006 at 11:19 PM / IP Logged  
Cold solder joint, nuts I thought I was preventing that by actually heating the joint so that the solder wicked into the wires instead of sitting on the surface.
100/140W is what you need for heavy gauge wire, that definatly explains why my measly little 30W Radio Shack special soldering iron didn't have what it took to heat the joint. If sometime in the future I happen to do another install I will definatly invest in a soldering gun. Also if I were to tear back into the dash and reheat these joints with the gun would I be able to fix the cold solder problem? Is there a time frame before the solder can't be properly reheated?
I did do the strip the wire back, poke hole, wrap tight solder with a slight variation. I only poked about half of the wire through the center while the other half remained on the outside and then wrapped them around the wire in opposite directions. The reason for this was I was having trouble getting the wire to wrap tight if I kept it all together. Not really sure if my description of what I did is all that good.
Thank you for passing on the knowledge I am always up for learning something new. I have progressed a long way from the first remote start that I put in this truck 2 years ago where I mounted the brain to the fire wall right under the carpet(a rediculuously obvous spot espically with the rats nest of non factory looking wires that I had running to it) and made all my connections with dare I even say Scotch locks/quick connects Soldering heavy gauge wire -- posted image.. So I feel that I have come a long way in the 2 years that have passed, but I still have a lot to learn.
Thankx for the help every one
Conrad
dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 27, 2006 at 11:57 PM / IP Logged  
I wouldn't worry much about that joint, it looks okay. It's just easier working with a soldering gun than waving a torch on the joint just right to avoid overheating it and burning off the flux. If you get a soldering gun, Weller's a good brand to get- dual stage heating is good because it heats up so quickly, you just pulse it on and off to regulate it.
amcmac 
Member - Posts: 23
Member spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2006 at 4:48 AM / IP Logged  
What do you guys mean when you say poke a hole in the wire after your strip it.  Do you poke a hole in the wire you are tapping into and then feed the stripped end of the alarm/RS wire into the hole, wrap it tight, and solder it?  Sorry for the ignorance.
mrcllusb 
Copper - Posts: 489
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 06, 2005
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: February 28, 2006 at 5:12 AM / IP Logged  
First you strip about an inch off of the wire your tapping into.Take the probe from your multimeter and poke a hole into the exposed wire.Feed the stripped wire that comes from your alarm/rs thru the hole.Wrap the wire around one side,then the other,then around itself.Then you can solder it,or just tape it real tight with an installers best friend (3M),then zip tie the wires to each other..If you need to see exactly what i mean pm me your e-mail address and i'll send you the printout..
"ole blake"
Page of 2

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, March 28, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer