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Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: March 24, 2006 at 10:21 AM / IP Logged  

Sounds like the shop burned out the switch in the door because the UNLOCK function requires a 5 wire setup to protect the switch from getting a (-) signal. If you can actuate the door motors via the motor wires, you can use the 5 wire set up like this ( http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/C.jpg ) and wire in both the driver's side and the passenger side motor wires:

DOORLOCK MOTOR graygreen plug at the bcm The BCM is located in the passenger kick, just in front of the blower motor.
DOOR UNLOCK MOTOR tangreen plug at the bcm The BCM is located in the passenger kick, just in front of the blower motor.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: March 24, 2006 at 10:24 AM / IP Logged  
Also, did the shop grab both unlock wire ( TAN & GRAY/BLACK ) & 5 wire these wires ?
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Kapedogg 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 24, 2006 at 1:21 PM / IP Logged  

Just to make sure I undersand...  All I need to do is get a relay; run a 12volt source to "86" and "87"; run the proper wire from the alarm to "85" to supply the negative pulse; run the output wire from the door switches(I believe it is red and balck) to "87a" and the gray motor wire to "30"?????  Is that correct?

Should I test anything before I get started to see if this will actually work or not?  Is it possible the door lock motor is fried?  I think the switch itself is OK, because a signal does go to the BCM because it clicks, but then nothing happens after that. 

Will I need to wire up the unlock function as pictured in the diagram, or will it work properly still?  I suppose it would be fine if they wired it up as you questioned/suggested in your last post.  From what they told me, they were able to wire up the unlock function properly according to the install schematics of the alarm.  I'm not sure exactly sure what that consists of.  I guess I'll find out when I tear into it. 

Thanks again so much for your help.  I REALLY REALLY APPRECIATE IT!!!!!!!

Kapedogg 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 08, 2006 at 2:57 PM / IP Logged  

Well, I started working on this, and now neither of them work.  Checked the fuses, not it.  Hit the button, and things click, but neither the locks nor unlock works.  I picked up a DEI 451.  could someone please tell me exactly how to wire this into the system.  Keep in mind the RED / black, tan, gray/black wires have all been cut in half, so please include if I should be connecting the 451 to the half going into the Green plug at the BCM or the half that goes into the car somewhere.

Also, is it possible to have fried the actuators themselves or a fuse going to them?  Where are they and how can I check???

Kapedogg 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 09, 2006 at 11:53 AM / IP Logged  
TTT... Anyone?
Kapedogg 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 09, 2006 at 2:50 PM / IP Logged  
Well, I've tried wiring it up every way possible, to no avail.  I decided to wire it back up stock to see what happened, and the doors will UNLOCK, but will not LOCK.  It seems to NOT be a problem with the way the alarm is getting wired in since they DO NOT LOCK when the wiring is STOCK.  What could possibly be wrong.  Could an acuator be fried? the BCM be fried?  Is there a fuse inline in the system somewhere?  I know there has to be a simple answer to this one.  Also, I checked with a continuity tester, and there is no juice going through the RED / black lock switch wire, and nothing going through the gray lock motor wire either. 
Kapedogg 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 09, 2006 at 5:39 PM / IP Logged  

Correction, there is juice going through the gray wire.

I tried wiring things as the velocity motorsports diagram was showing, and that didn't work.  I tried wiring it up as another diagram I found showed for '96 and up Camaro's where the relays separated the unlock function in two relays and wired the lock pulse from the alarm to the RED / black wire.  Both of these had the same results.  Hit the lock button, hear a click at the BCM and then nothing. 

bmwpwner 
Copper - Posts: 174
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 09, 2006 at 8:25 PM / IP Logged  

someone may have already suggested this but i didn't read all the posts entirely. isn't this vehicle one of the ones like the camaro where you have to turn off the factory alarm with the lock unlock switches (programming) so that it doesn't interfere with an aftermarket alarm locking the vehicle. try document 1057 from diretechs. also most shops have insurance and if they did burn the switch up then it would be up to them to file a damage claim and get your vehicle fixed. i would go in being rude about it but you should let them know that you do expect them to get your vehicle fixed at least back to the way it was working prior to them working on it. good luck.

"I cannot teach anybody anything, I can only make them think."
-Socrates-
Kapedogg 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 10, 2006 at 8:17 AM / IP Logged  

Yeah, unfortunately I moved 15 hours away from the shop that did the install. So, that is out.  I did notice when playing with it, the factory alarm did go off when I opened the passenger door a couple of times.  The wiring is the same as in the camaro.  I'll try to find the 1057 article on the website here and see if that helps at all.  I tried directechs website but couldn't seem to do anything without logging in. Thanks for the help!

Kapedogg 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 10, 2006 at 8:32 AM / IP Logged  
Didn't find the 1057 article on here, but could that actually be the problem since I wired the locks back up to stock and they still would NOT LOCK, but did unlock?
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