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Your opinion on my set-up?


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adshaft 
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Joined: November 16, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: March 30, 2006 at 11:56 PM / IP Logged  
Hello
I'm attemping to put my car system together, I have a diagram which I made to show what I have to work with
(my items are not pictures shown).
Lets start from the beginning:
-1991 SAAB 9000 Turbo
-115 Amp Alternator
-Near Future Purchase Yellow or Red top Optima Batt.
-PIONEER DEH P6200 4 X 50 1 Pre-Out
-ROCKFORD FOSGATE X6 Amp (Spec Sheet Shown)
-LANZAR VIBE 530 (Spec Sheet Shown)
-Near Future Purchase Audiocontrol 13 band EQ 1 in 4 outs
-Near Future Purchase (2X) 1 Farad Capacitors
-2 ROCKFORD FOSGATE P312D4 (Dual) 500 Rms-1000 Max Rms
-6 1/2" Components MB QUART w/ Crossovers (Door Panel)
-5 1/2" Components BOSTON ACOUSTIC w/ Crossovers (Rear)
-4" CHT (Front Dash)
Here are my questions:
1- Is my 115 Amp Alt enough for my set-up?
2- My Lanzar Amp comes with 2 30 Amp Fuses built in, do I need to fuse an additional 60 Amps 18" from Batt.?
3- Another route---Should I use a 2 Awg Wire from Batt to a Distr. Block and then plug in my
    8Awg(EQ)-4Awg(Caps)-4Awg(Amp #1)-4Awg(Amp #2) Wires?
     If -- Yes what fuse size do I use 18" after Batt. or a fused Dist. Block?
4- The Lanzar is a 5 channel amp, In my diagram I am      forgoing on the 5th channel (used for low frequency-Sub)
   and bridging my 4" CHTs, is this a no-no?
   What is the best set-up for the 6 speakers and 4                    tweeters?(using only 4 channels)
5- For the Subs is the following connection correct: 1 wire to +(1Sub) & +(2nd Sub)
                                                                           1 wire to -(1Sub) & -(2nd Sub)
                                                                           1 wire to + & - (1 Sub)
                                                                           1 wire to + & - (2nd Sub)
will this 2 subwoofer set-up create a 2 Ohm or a 4 Ohm Load?
6- Is my -Negative Block a good route to go for grounding?
    
Your opinion on my set-up? -- posted image.
Your opinion on my set-up? -- posted image.
Your opinion on my set-up? -- posted image.
Your opinion on my set-up? -- posted image.
Your opinion on my set-up? -- posted image.
Your opinion on my set-up? -- posted image.
Steven Kephart 
Platinum - Posts: 1,737
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: March 31, 2006 at 3:21 AM / IP Logged  

1)  You won't know until you install it.  I do recommend dropping the capacitors from your system.  There is no sense in wasting money on something you don't even know if you will need.  Plus if it turns out you do need something, the upgraded alternator is a much wiser choice. 

2) Absolutely.  It isn't there to protect the amplifier, but the vehicle in case of accidental shorting of the power wire.

3) You probably don't need 8 awg wire for the equalizer.  The fuse size should be about the total of the amplifiers internal fuses.  You probably want somewhere around a 100-120 amp fuse up there.

4)  I'd recommend going without the 4" speakers.  They will only screw up the front stage.  What was your reasoning for using them?

5)  If you are planning on bridging that amplifier, you can only provide a 1 ohm, 4 ohm, or 8 ohm impedance to your amplifier.  Here's how to do the wiring: https://www.the12volt.com/ssi/getimage.asp?imgFN=2_4ohm_dvc_1ohm.gif    https://www.the12volt.com/ssi/getimage.asp?imgFN=2_4ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif

6)  It should work just fine.  Or you could save some money on the ground block and just run the grounds to a single point.

coppellstereo 
Silver - Posts: 785
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Joined: November 21, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: March 31, 2006 at 9:28 AM / IP Logged  
What is the comparison of using RCA or Pre-outs?
forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,352
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Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: March 31, 2006 at 1:16 PM / IP Logged  
Do not buy the Audio Control item, nor the caps. Instead, buy a good cd player that has a high voltage low impedence preamp output. My recommmedation is the Eclipse CD3000 - CD7000 series (or a last years CD8445). Sell your Pioneer to a friend. This will eliminate another piece to install, the space it takes, the extra wiring and the nasty potential of noise due to multiple components and the known internal ground plane issue of the Pioneer head units. I would also not recommend the Optima batteries and instead look at a Exide Orbital battery. It can take a way harder smelly dung kicking as compared to the Optima. Do not try and use the dash speakers in this fashion. If you really want to use them, get a dedicated amplifier to operate them.
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
adshaft 
Member - Posts: 3
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Joined: November 16, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: April 01, 2006 at 1:04 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for feedbacks guys, as for the 4"'s I figured having 2 more mids up front would give a nice sound overall. I see lots of high end car manufactors putting like 8 speakers and up in their new releases, so figured 6 total speakers(excluding tweeters) would'nt be overkill. I figure since I have those 4"ers might as well test them with extra amp to see if they give a desired effect. It might very well be a waste of time, but I have them and hey why not give it a shot, won't cost me anything.
As for my fuse up front it says on the RF Amp that the battery fuse rating(Amps)is 100 Amps(tough to see on picture), so if I got this right 100 Amps-RF Amp + 60Amps-Lanzar Amp = 160 Amps up front. Now is it better to fuse each amp individually with their respected fuse load? This means independant wiring to both amps right? or should I use one fuse to cover all my equipement within 18" of battery? Reason for my curiosity is this: if my system consists of A-B-C and A and B are working properly but C is malfunctioning, with the one fuse set-up, I would'nt really be able to pin point the cause of my burnt fuse, whereas with individual fusing I would know exactly which item is malfunctioning. Is my logic correct?
Alternator question, I realize that if my alternator is producing adequate amp load to power my system, without having that light dimming effect, I can forgo on Caps(which I would love to eliminate from my set-up) what size Alt would best suit my set-up? 200? I don't think I'll be adding or upgrading any equipement and if I do it would still be in the same amp requirement range as now. So with this in mind what would my best bet be on an Alt. size? Is bigger safer or should I only get what truly required?
Thanks again, much appreciated.
Adam
stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: April 01, 2006 at 1:27 AM / IP Logged  
You don't want to take your design cues from OEM systems, my man.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

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