ASL fuse sizes?

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corey497

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Joined: February 20, 2006

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Posted: April 10, 2006 at 1:59 PM / IP Logged

Im trying to figure out what fuses i will need for my amp installation. I looked at the chart here but is doesent make sence to me beacuse those numbers are almost double what i figured out, so maybe im useing the wrong numbers or maybe someone can correct me, heres the set up, i need to know what size amperage fuses to get between:

#1 235 amp alternator to the battery (0 gauge)

#2 battery to a 2 farad capasitor thats feeding 2 - 1000 watt amps (0 gauge)

# 3 capasitor to the 2 amps (4 gauge)

For example the chart says that 1000 watts will pull 160 amps...

well i figure: 1000 watts / 12 volts = 83.3 amps

can i just get a plain rounded off number??

Steven Kephart

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Posted: April 10, 2006 at 2:41 PM / IP Logged

The point of the fuse at the battery is to protect the vehicle from accidental power wire shorting. It is not there to protect your equipment as they should have their own internal fuses for that. So you want to select a fuse size that is just above the maximum amount of current all the equipment attached to that power wire will draw. The best way to figure this is just to add up all the fuse sizes on the equipment, and go somewhere around that number. But it doesn't have to be exact.

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DYohn

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Posted: April 10, 2006 at 2:45 PM / IP Logged

Steven Kephart wrote:

AND make sure your fuse size is below the maximum current capacity for the power cable gauge size and length of cable run. If your gear requires more current than the cable can safely carry, it's time for bigger cables.

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the12volt

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Posted: April 10, 2006 at 3:00 PM / IP Logged

The current draw figures in my chart are based on RMS power of an amplifier with a 50% efficiency rating, hence the difference between my numbers and yours.

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corey497

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Joined: February 20, 2006

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Posted: April 10, 2006 at 3:27 PM / IP Logged

Steven Kephart wrote:

So you want to select a fuse size that is just above the maximum amount of current all the equipment attached to that power wire will draw. The best way to figure this is just to add up all the fuse sizes on the equipment, and go somewhere around that number. But it doesn't have to be exact.

Now see im lost, the amps have 2X25 amp fuses, which means that they will both need a 50 amp fuse between them and the capastior? not 80 or 160? and betwwen the battery and capastior 100 amp not 300amp?

What about the alternator??? its supplying not draining at 235 amps, but that still has to be fuse protected...

the12volt

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Posted: April 10, 2006 at 3:42 PM / IP Logged

You didn't mention the model numbers of the amplifiers you have, but they are not putting out 1000 watts each. At 100% efficiency, each amp would produce only 720 watts if it were pulling 50 amps of current at 14.4 volts and at 50% efficiency, each would produce only 360 watts. What amplifiers do you have?

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corey497

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Location: United States

Posted: April 10, 2006 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/product/detail/...

these are the amps im installing

i understand the confusion about the amps but what about my alternator? its not drawing its supplying power to the battery with a 0 gauge wire, but no one has metioned anything about it, it does need to be fused right?

hardknocks

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Joined: March 02, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: April 10, 2006 at 10:08 PM / IP Logged

wire from the alt to ur battery doesn't need to be fused unless u have an isolator then the fuse will have to be to the extra battery you have after the aux. terminal on the Isolator. other than tha tur alt doesn't really need one.

4-15" RF T2

6-7" RF Component sets

8 Planet Audio 900d

10 Batcap800

1 250 amp alt

1 300 amp alt

2" sound deadner roof,doors,floors

haemphyst

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Posted: April 11, 2006 at 9:01 AM / IP Logged

hardknocks wrote:

That is a BAD suggestion. You ALWAYS FUSE EVERY WIRE COMING OFF ANY BATTERY, WITHIN 18 INCHES OF THE BATTERY. You stated your power cable from alt to battery was a 0 gauge. What happens if you are in a minor accident (not enough to total the car), and that cable is compromised in some way? All of a sudden your car is ON FIRE, and now it IS totalled... Fuse it.

It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

hardknocks

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Posted: April 11, 2006 at 10:15 PM / IP Logged

haemphyst wrote:

if this where to ever happen then I'm a wiz poor electrician and i don't need top be crimping wires I can asure you that if i were to get into an accident the engine would have to tear into the wire for it to short out. for someone that doesn't have the correct equipment to crimp such large wires then i see where you would say this. but i'm no shade tree installer of electrician. there wouldn't be million dollar equipment flying around fighting for our country.

4-15" RF T2

6-7" RF Component sets

8 Planet Audio 900d

10 Batcap800

1 250 amp alt

1 300 amp alt

2" sound deadner roof,doors,floors

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