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2002 Silverado, remote start and 55LW


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orangezcar 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: April 29, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: May 02, 2006 at 1:14 PM / IP Logged  

Actually, the battery light comes on after the starter tries to start the car and then right before it tries to start up again the "security" light comes on and flashes.

I think the passlock bypass is correct.  I am never locked out and can start the car with the key with no problem.  That would seem to leave the remote system itself.  I've checked all the wires with a multi-tester and they check out with what the manual says.

I think my next step may be to pull it out.  This is really frustrating.  I've put a remote starter in a 2002 Mountaineer and didn't have this much trouble.

Tony

Twelvoltz 
Platinum - Posts: 2,384
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Joined: March 24, 2005
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: May 02, 2006 at 4:56 PM / IP Logged  
OK, let's just verify
Bulldog Wire     Truck Wire
14ga Pink        Thick Red (constant)
14ga White       Thick Orange (accessory)
14ga Yellow      Yellow (starter)
14ga Blue        Thick Pink (Ignition)
14ga Green       White (Ignition 2)
Set it to extended crank, voltage sensing. Make sure that if you have already cut the tachometer jumper in the unit that you restore it. I would also recommend reprogramming the transmitters to the unit, I have seen some designtech units do funky things and reprogramming the transmitter has resolved it.
Don't give up, you are almost there!
orangezcar 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: April 29, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: May 03, 2006 at 5:23 AM / IP Logged  
How it is wired;
DesignTech             Truck
Pink                         Connected directly to Battery (with in-line fuse)
White                      ACC - thick orange
Yellow                      Starter - yellow
Blue                         Ign 1 - Pink
Green                      Ign 2 - White
Should I try connecting the Pink desigtech wire to the constant red? Right now there is an in-line fuse between the battery and the unit.
I'll try it again.
Thanks,
Tony
Twelvoltz 
Platinum - Posts: 2,384
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: March 24, 2005
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: May 03, 2006 at 3:33 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry about the 'bulldog' there...brain fart.

Going to the battery with your feed is good, so long as the fuses are close to the battery.  I just re-read the posts earlier in this thread and you mention that your ground is to the underside of the dash.  I would suggest to move it to the kick panel, clean away all paint and primer to shiny metal.  Make sure there are no wires running behind where you want to ground it and use a star washer with a self tapper screw.  The ground via the dash is not as good a ground as it needs to be.  The brackets that are there are run through bolts/paint/etc.  After you move the ground, if it is still not working, try hooking your DMM to each of the connections and verify that they are operating as they should.  Make sure that both ignitions are staying energized the entire time and not dropping out.  Make sure the accessory is dropping out when the starter is engaged.

Keep us posted.

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