Phoenix gold X12D2?

I am installing a system in my boat and have a few questions.

After running a number of scenarios on WinISD I have come to the conclusion I want the best of both worlds. I have a PG 600.1 sub amp can I

1. Run 2 subs with different enclosures (1 ported to hit) (one vented for SQ)?

2. The manual for the subs lists Re at 3.49 the web site says 3.63 which to use?

3. Is the Re given the Re of 1 VC or both?

4. What do I enter for Re, Voicecoils, and connection in driver editor?

5. What would I put in Signal Source, series resistance?

6. The Subs are rated at 500W RMS is the amp going to give them enough power at 300W per speaker?

Any Help would be greatly appreciated. WinISD is awesome..... :)

Actually, I decided today to not do a vented enclosure but maybe 2 sealed enclosures. one enclosure at .9 ft^3 and one at about 2.5 ft^3. Looking at the graph with the larger enclosure the curve hits the -3db line at 28.6Hz and the smaller at 43Hz. I am still new to this though so if you think I would be better off running them the same let me know.

Any answers to the other questions posted?

The Re given on either source is close enough.  They could have been measured from two different sets of subs.  The Re examples you gave are for two DVC 2 ohm drivers connected in series, as the Re of a single 2 ohm coil would be approx. 1.6 ohms.  This is an indication that they are giving parameters with two coils wired in series, so you would look at 'Znom' after the editor is filled out and make sure it is corrected to read 4 ohms.

Look at the driver's manual.  It gives you a listing under "Musical" (you don't want SPL on your boat) for both sealed and vented enclosures.  2.2 ft^3 sealed, vented is 3.2 ft^3 with a 3" round port at 11.2" long.  The manual also tells you that the driver displacement has already been allowed for with those volumes.

You can use these recommendations as a guide and look at them in the WinISD program.  As said above, decide on one type - sealed or vented - and use it for both so they are the same (there is no such thing as "best of both worlds" in this case).  Use the program's Help sections to find out about those specific questions you asked above.  Signal is the power that will be applied to the woofer so you can check the port velocity chart to find out if you are getting port noise.  In your case you have indicated 300 watts of power.  Series resistance...leave it blank.  In the driver editor, enter the parameters as given by the manufacturer.  So if they are giving you parameters of two coils wired in series, enter them as given and then select 'two coils in series'.

And, the sub is capable of 500 watts continuous but it will perform just fine with 300 watts.  The difference in output would be less than 3 db.

Thanks for the help, it is appreciated. I am going to see if I have enough room to do the 4.4 ft^3 box for both subs. From what I have read I may be able to shave 1-2 tenths off that size?

One question for stevdart, why not SPL in a boat? To clarify a little it will be open air, their is no cabin or cuddy or anything.

I was originally leaning toward SPL because of the open air environment thinking SQ would be lost in such an environment. But I will leave it to the experts on that one.

One last question, the program deviates some from PG as far as optimum sizes go, should I use WinISD or PG reccomendations? Thanks again for the info.

1.  SPL is a specific way of setting up subwoofers so that the output couples with the vehicle for loudest...read "unmusical" ...output.  Having loud subs is not the same as having an SPL setup.  Do you want your shipmates to jump ship when that 45 Hz note blares 2X louder than the rest of the frequency spectrum?

2.  As long as you are understanding the program and have everything entered right, use it over the recommendations.  Those recommendations are to satisfy the majority of buyers inasfar as box size and simplicity.  So oftentimes the enclosure can be made larger for better sound and output.  But keep it in mind nevertheless.  And especially when you are powering the subs at less than the rated RMS, the larger enclosure allows them to be more efficient with less input power.  You're certainly not strapped for space on deck.

What you will not have, in any case in an open-air environment, is "cabin gain".  This is where the subs couple with the acoustics of the enclosure that you are within (as in a car or a livingroom) and increase the decibel level within a fairly broad range.  Instead, you will be relying on the sub output at the cone itself, so positioning of the subs should be approached in an  experimental manner.

It's a kind of a "see how it goes" thing on the deck of a boat.