compustar 2W900FM-AS

3)Hood pin switch?

ahh thats what that is for..ok cool thanks for the reply :) While i am on the subject and not really wanting to start a new thread, I noticed while testing my alarm that if i have the window down and arm the alarm, i can pull the lock to unlock the door and the alarm doesn't notice. is this normal or do I have something wired wrong? Also, for the door trigger, the alarm has a - lead and pos lead, do I hook both up or one over the other? 1968 VW Beetle

Pioneed DEH-780MP, 2 10' Memphis PR104D, Memphis PR500.1, TXC 6.1, MTX Thunder 8502

i am new to installing alarms but I will kick in the knowledge I have garnered installing the 2wssr cm3000a brain. door triggers are EITHER (-) or (+) No, the alarm will not notice lock position, it only sends a pulse to either lock or unlock. So if lock and unlock work when you arm and disarm, its good to go. Antenna wire should be long enough to make it the rear side glass, no ? My understanding would be that it is designed to be right up against the glass with lots of exposure for max range. I hotglued mine to the rear door post so it sticks back across the top of the rear passenger window. Doesnt look bad and my 3 yr old cant reach it from her car seat :)

Eccks, I have both door trigger wires hooked up. One on the neg and one on the pos. It's working though....will this mess things up if i leave it this way? Anyway to get the alarm to notice when the door unlocks? I suppose since the door triggers work I really don't need it to know the door unlocked but it's another safety feature in my eyes. I wish the antenna was long enough to reach the side window. Unfortunately it's not. I doubt I could find an extension huh? I could drill a new whole for the wire to run threw though but I really hate to drill any more holes then needed. 1968 VW Beetle

Pioneed DEH-780MP, 2 10' Memphis PR104D, Memphis PR500.1, TXC 6.1, MTX Thunder 8502

Personal experiences have proven that if you have the tinted visor it will actually interfere with the signal. i recommend placing it directly behind the rear view mirror vertically.If you can't Dodge it, Ram it. If you can't do that, blow it up.

The alarm won't detect if you have the door locked or unlocked. It will only detect if the door is open or closed, so your good to go with that. Also compustars ready for manual cars, it has a safety feature where when you take the key out the car will keep running as long as the hand brake is up and the brake isn't pushed. When you get out of the car it automatically turns off and the alarm arms. You have to do this every time to remote start the car. There is a small yellow jumper wire in the brain which you're supposed to cut when it is in an automatic car and what this does is pretty much jus removes that feature because its not needed for an automatic car. As for connecting the positive and negative door trigger leads, exactly what did you hook the positive one up to?

oh ya, one more thing. The hood pin switch is needed on any remote starter. It works just like a door pin switch (-) lead. Drill a hole somewhere under your hood so that the switch is surrounded by metal and will be pushed down by the hood when its closed. Run the grey wire ( it think, it will be refered to as hood switch in the manual) through the firewall of the car and crimp it to the little connecter that comes with the switch and hook it to the switch. Thats it. Good to go. The alarm/starter will work without it but i suggest you put it in for 2 reasons; safety and so that if someone pops your hood the alarm goes off, so extra protection

I'm looking at my cm3000 wiring diagram now, it may look very similar to yours. Lets make sure we're on the same page, there is door sense (+) and (-) on CN3. Thats exactly what it is, sense the door open or closed. You only use one + or -, in my case 1995 GM B-body, it is (-) sense i.e. if you hold a vom from ground to the chassis wire voltage will go low when door opened (if I recall correctly). I wouldnt want both door senses hooked up, I'm constantly worried everytime I make a step with my installation that I'll fry the brain, cause its unwarranted. I dont see why you cant extend the antenna wire, it doesnt appear to be specially shielded. You might wanna do some searches on that though.

Thanks guys, the version of the brain I have is auto only, there is no wire there at all so it's stuck in auto mode. No big deal really as bugs are hard to auto start because of the choke. It's a 68 bug, there isn't a tinted area on the window so I am ok as far az that goes. It's just that the damn antenna is so big when applied to a bug window lol. I might try and re run the wire so I can get it to the back window. The door trigger needed some sort of power source. I don't have a dome light so the door triggers were not working. I was going to use a relay and realized I have one on the alarm not being used. It's the second relay that comes off of the main wire harness. It's used for 2nd acc, 2nd ign and something else. There is a violet wire and a blue wire. I have the neg wire hooked to violet and blue hooked to pos. The door triggers work this way so....thats how I left it. If i only should use one wire I'll disconnect one of them. As for the hood switch, I plan to hook that up. Had to find out what it was first and now find a good place to bolt it in. Thanks again guys for the help. 1968 VW Beetle

Pioneed DEH-780MP, 2 10' Memphis PR104D, Memphis PR500.1, TXC 6.1, MTX Thunder 8502