8W6 Door panel project pics

OK well I was going to use 4 8W6's in my doors for mid bass and I couldn't due to clearence issues in the front driver side door. Putting the speaker in my driver door would cause problems with my leg and I would have trouble shifting, so I decided to only use 2 of the 4 subs in the rear doors. I am currently in the stage of getting FG layed down on the panels to create a box type effect for the subs. I will then create a FG box for the sub and on top of that create my new door panel with lines and curves instead of the flat piece of wood as a door panel. So here are some pics of the progress which I just finished taking with my new camera phone since I don't have the money to afford a digital camera haha, but they are decent since the camera on the phone is 1.3 megapixels.

First layer of FG layed down and dryed

Another pic different angle

The speaker mount made of 5/8" mdf and wood dowels as support to lay fleece and FG.

The 8W6

Side View

Set inside of the speaker mount

Now that is what I call flush mount!

Speaker was mounted to JL specs with atleast 0.75" of clearence

2nd layer of FG layed down and is currently drying.

That is what I have so far, I plan to put some Components up front which I was going to do either way, but now I have room for probably 2 sets of comps. I still have not decided if I am going to put in 2 12" Kicker 06L7's OR 1 10" Kicker SOLO X which will basically cost the same amount of fedz. So what do you guys think thus far?? Criticism is welcomed.

Thanks guys!

First off, I must comment on those images.  Your shots of those woofers look like the size of a office building hahaha.

Two, it's looking good.  My client wants a SoloX 10 in his setup as well, still finishing up internals for now.  May end up going with a SoloX 12 since they come in both 2ohm and 1ohm, while the SoloX 10 in only a 1ohm (or maybe it was a 2ohm)

Funny you should say that, because that is my main buisness office. lol That would be pretty cool if it were true. . . Anyway, here are some updated pics of how the sub is going to look installed.

Panel mounted on the door of the car.

The original door panel with the original vinyl cover.

How my driver side door looks right now and the rear door looked before the FG.

A shot of the speaker in the mount on top of the panel.

Ready for a close-up?

Clearence shot.

Left Side.

Right Side.

Mocked up on the door.

Door closed.

Back seat on the left, front seat on the right.

A lil lower but same thing.

I have enough room.

Interesting looking pic dunno how the color got like that but it looks cool! lol.

That is how it is coming so far, updated pics still to come, only one problem. . . . WE ARE RUNNING LOW ON RESIN!!!!!!!! lol I buy resin by the gallon for $30 a pop, but am trying to look into getting a 5 gallon bucket from my uncles friend, we will see what happens.

Thanks for looking guys and keep the comments coming!

Just a few final shots for the day.

BTW if u look at this last pic you can see that I ran into my first clearence problem, the speaker mount will need to be moved up a bit to account for the FG that will be layed down. It is looking good so far and all is going well.

Thanks man I am happy with how it is turning out so far

Yea the back seat is not really made for tall people either way, but to be honest it really doesn't take up too much leg room, as long as it is not a long 6 hour trip you will be fine haha.  Although I am going to be opening up the seat to see about modding it to make it either move the whole seat back a couple inches or making it so that you are somehow more comfortable, the only thing is that the back of the seat has a release latch to allow the seat to lay flat and then raise up at a 90* angle so that would also need to get moved back if I happen to move the seat back.

exactly about having play, but I wasnt sure about angling the speaker.  I thought maybe just keep it the way it is and move the mount up about 1/4" or so.

What do you guys think should I angle the speaker upwards?

What I was going to do to get maximum volume for the box of the speaker without having clearence issues was to take 1''x1''x1'' wood to make a skeleton where I can fleece on that and make the biggest box possible to make the proper volume which is .375ft.cu. including driver displacement and bracing displacement.  Does this sound like a good plan?  I also plan on using pinto beans to measure the volume of the enclosure which I believe will work more efficiently than packing peanuts.

wasnt there any way you could have had the sub magnet in the door? I know on my rear doors when I mounted my subs there, even though it wasnt a stock speaker location, there was still a hole cut in the bar metal after removing the door panel. I had to cut the hole a little bigger, but I eventually made it work without too much modding.

Looks pretty good so far. I just think if you can get the sub to sit a little further back into the door it would solve a lot of your clearance issues and angling it slightly upward would help a little too.