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02 lexus rx300

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Silver - Posts: 796
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 18, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 10, 2003 at 5:33 PM / IP Logged  

im doing a lexus rx300 tomorrow for remote start and keyless. ive never done this vehicle before, but i know you have to run wires into the drivers door for locks and factory alarm disarm. and it has a transponder key and you need a 555u.... other than that has anyone done one of these before that can offer me any hints,tricks,tips, etc...

thanks in advance


Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: January 20, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: January 20, 2003 at 11:18 PM / IP Logged  

I am looking for the same info that u were looking for. How did it turn out, I have one to put in this week and was looking for any helpfull advice. If u were sucesfull or not



Silver - Posts: 796
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 18, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 21, 2003 at 5:56 PM / IP Logged  

takes alot longer than most installs. you have to remove the drivers door panel to get the door lock wires, you need a diagram from DEI to make everything work with relays and diodes with the factory security. you also need to use a relay to interrupt the auto headlamps because after the remote starter is shut off the autolights will not shut themselves off without the relay. and you need a keybox and bury a key in the dash. find the diagram for the factory security before you attempt the install!! have fun!

Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: January 20, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: January 22, 2003 at 2:25 PM / IP Logged  

I am not a dei dealer would you happen to know the colours of wires  that i should look for  (door lock) ?  I started the job, finished the starter but I have two wires RED / blue & RED / yel that come out of the door lock switch that are 12v constant and flip to ground like reverse polarity would but they are not rev. pol. and there also is an alarm on the vehicle which is a grey wire but by applying ground to it does not disarm the system even though it is a neg. wire ,when tested by oem remote or unlock switch. I installed this starter without any wire schematic starting is a breeze locks have got me, so I now find myself lost.

Thanks for all your help!


Silver - Posts: 325
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 01, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 22, 2003 at 2:28 PM / IP Logged  

|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |

|              12V|WHITE/ blue          |+  |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|BLACK/ white         |+  |ignition harness            |
|         IGNITION|BLACK / YELLOW        |+  |ignition harness            |
|  SECOND IGNITION|black               |+  |ignition harness            |
|        ACCESSORY|pink                |+  |ignition harness            |
|       POWER LOCK|see direct fax      |   |                            |
|     POWER UNLOCK|document # 1070     |   |                            |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green               |   |drivers kick panel *1       |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|GREEN/ red           |   |steering column             |
|       HEADLIGHTS|RED / blue            |-  |steering column             |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|RED / white           |-  |steering column *2          |
| DOME SUPERVISION|same as doors       |   |                            |
|  TRUNK/HATCH PIN|WHITE/ red           |-  |drivers kick *3             |
|         HOOD PIN|RED / blue            |-  |*4                          |
|  FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock      |   |                            |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms with unlock |   |                            |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK|blue/silver dots *7 |-  |steering column             |
|       TACHOMETER|orange              |   |right of the fuse box *5    |
|      SPEED SENSE|violet/white        |   |*6                          |
|       BRAKE WIRE|GREEN / WHITE         |+  |at switch                   |
|     HORN TRIGGER|WHITE/ red           |-  |steering column             |
|           WIPERS|blue/blk - blue/red |+  |steering column             |
|  LF WINDOW UP/DN|red   -   green     |A  |in door at motor            |
|  RF WINDOW UP/DN|red   -   green     |A  |in door at motor            |
|  LR WINDOW UP/DN|red   -   green     |A  |in door at motor            |
|  RR WINDOW UP/DN|red   -   green     |A  |in door at motor            |
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE|not recommended     |   |                            |
|   SUN ROOF LIMIT|not recommended     |   |                            |
|        RADIO 12V|WHITE/ blue          |+  |at radio                    |
|     RADIO GROUND|brown               |-  |at radio                    |
|     RADIO SWITCH|gray/red            |+  |at radio                    |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|                    |   |                            |
|    POWER ANTENNA|black               |+  |at radio                    |
|       LF SPEAKER|pink   -   purple   |   |at speaker or amp *8        |
|       RF SPEAKER|   -   blue |   |at speaker or amp *8        |
|       LR SPEAKER|black   -   yellow  |   |at speaker or amp *8        |
|       RR SPEAKER|red   -   white     |   |at speaker or amp *8        |


NOTE:  This vehicle has an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed when adding remote start.  Use DEI part number 555U.  *1  Located in a gray 15 pin plug.  *2  This wire goes to the key cylinder illumination ring and reads the delay.   *3  Located in a 20-pin plug, low in the kick panel.  Test only with a digital multi-meter as some of the multiplex wires in the car are WHITE/ red.  *4  In the engine compartment, under the relay box on the drivers side in a gray 17-pin plug, pin #1  *5  In a 10-pin plug.  *6  Coming from the cluster to the cruise control computer, it is located just above the drivers main fuse/relay box.  *7 This is the ignition key sense wire. Using the status output wire from the remote start to ground this wire will disarm the alarm without unlocking the doors.  *8 The amplifier is under the rear seat.

Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 22, 2003 at 5:35 PM / IP Logged  

I've done one RX300, but dozens upon dozens of Toyota Highlanders, which is the same car.  The Techsoft information is basically accurate.  I've found a few extra things.

Like all Toyotas, the climate controls run off the second ignition wire.  The pink wire just does the radio and power mirrors and stuff----it's not needed for remote start.

Going to the brake pedal switch sucks----you can easily find brake, and positive parking lights, together in the driver's kick.  There are two plugs there; the wires you want are in the plug toward the rear of the car.

Auto-headlamp shutoff:  If your remote starter has any type of output that makes a pulse upon remote start shutdown, do this:  Peel back the carpeting in the driver's kick; locate a taped-up harness with about five or six wires in it.  RED / blue is the driver's doorpin; red is the two rear doors----tie your output into one of these wires-----it will simulate a door being opened, thus turning the headlamps off.  These are low-current wires; a relay should not be needed.

On the one RX300 I did, I couldn't find any easy way to get a wire through the firewall for the hoodpin.  If anyone finds a way, or finds the factory hoodpin wire inside the car, please add the information here.

The RX300 comes with a special, credit-card style spare key.  This separates into two pieces----the key is a plain metal one, and the transponder chip is held in the plastic credit card.  You can use the credit card thingy for remote start, but it of course won't fit into the 555U........

Get yourself one piece of very long, thin wire.  Pass about half of it through the slot in the credit card, so you have lots of slack on each end-----now loop it around in such a way that you have made two wraps around the transponder, and tape the wire in place.  You'll now have two long lengths of wire in your hands.  Take one end, make it go straight for about one foot, and then wrap it twice around the car's key cylinder.  Now, bring it back to where the other free end is........tie these two ends to terminals 87 and 30 of a relay, and set up 85 and 86 to be activated when the remote starter is on.  You mustn't twist these wires with your drill, or loop them around other things----keep them straight. 


It's a little tricky, but not hard once you understand how the system works.  I forget the wire colors, but I'll give you an overview and you'll be able to find them yourself.

First, find and test these three wires---they should all be at the power window switch:

Lock wire---it tests by twisting the key in the door, NOT by using the rocker switch.

Unlock wire----again, it tests with the key in the door.

Unlock detection wire----often, but incorrectly, called the "child safety wire:"  This wire will show a ground if the doors are unlocked; and be dead (or nearly dead) with the doors locked.


This is the easy part.  Take your unit's negative unlock output, split it with two diodes.  One side goes to the unlock detection wire, and the other goes to the unlock wire.  When the car sees both wires go negative at the same time, the door(s) and hatch will unlock. 

NOTE:  If you do this in the passenger door, all doors open on a single pulse.  If you do it in the driver's door, only the driver's door unlocks on the first pulse; a second pulse unlocks all the others.  Also, in either case, this disarms the factory alarm too.  Furthermore, as long as the motor's not running, the factory domelight supervision kicks on too.  NOTE:  I use Audivox units with strong 300ma lock/unlock outputs.......if yours is weaker, you may need to use a relay to give enough strength to power up both of these wires at the same time.


A little trickier here, but not too bad.  Two things need to happen to lock the car-----the unlock detection wire must go dead, AND the lock wire must see a ground, at the same time.  To do this, you'll tie your unit's lock wire into the car's lock wire, AND at the same time, to the 85 terminal of a relay.............

Cut the unlock detection wire in half.  One side to 30 of your relay, the other side to 87a---doesn't matter which is which.  87 will be unused.  For the constant power you need for the 85 terminal, there's a thick constant wire at the power window switch----no need to run your own wire from inside the car for this.

So, here's how it happens:  When the user presses Lock on his remote, the lock wire in the car sees a ground, and the relay temporarily interrupts the unlock detection wire, fooling the car into thinking it has gone dead, and thus the doors lock.  Also, this arms the factory alarm.

Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: January 20, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: January 22, 2003 at 6:23 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the info I will give it all a try tomorrow About the hood wire, I fished a wire out through the top left rubber gromet of the fire wall this will lead you to the wheel well 2 10 mil. will drop it and 2 10 mils will move the fuse block under hood and fish it with those. Not that it was fast but fairly easy.

Thank you for all your input



Silver - Posts: 796
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 18, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 23, 2003 at 8:02 PM / IP Logged  
i cant remember exactly how i fished the wire through the firewall but i know i didnt take anything apart in order to do it, and it was fairly easy. im doing another one in a few days so when i remember how i fished it , ill post it again. as far as the trick to turn off the auto lites, i will definalty use that one instead of wiring up a relay to the autolight wire.

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