the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

Curves going inward


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
modena0 
Copper - Posts: 85
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 18, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 22, 2006 at 11:58 AM / IP Logged  

in the last box i worked on, the fabric was held in via hot glue like they say, but afterwards i had a theory.. if yo arent cutting out the fabric in the middle of the speaker ring until after the resin is hardened, then place the fabric where you want it on the ring, put a spot of hot glue on the top of the ring in a couple of spots to hold the general shape, and stipple in the resin around the ring first. once the ring is resinned up good, take that blank, wrap it in something (painters plastic, aluminum foil, etc.) spray it down with some mold release, and push it into the ring.. now yo can hold your shape, but the mold release will give the blanks the ability to come out afterwards... like i said, it was just a theory that popped into my head, but it might work.. most of my skeletons are made of a compulsive overuse of dowels though, so that typically holds the shape for me Curves going inward - Page 2 -- posted image.

EDIT: you might want to put a handle or something on the blank so you have something to pull it out by.

2000 Chevrolet S10
Premier DEH-P860MP
JL Audio XR650-CSi components
Boston 4x6 splits
JL Audio 10W3v2
Alpine MRP-M350
Clarion APA-4162
crazyoldcougar 
Copper - Posts: 185
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 03, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: July 22, 2006 at 8:50 PM / IP Logged  
it would be easier, and more secure if you make your ring a 1/4 inch larger then you need for the mounting surface of the sub...then much the same as you would do with a wooden back to your box, rabbit out that 1/4 inch extra down a 1/4 inch...now staple your fabric to the inside corner of the rabbit cut, it will now appear to have the speaker raised out from the front side of the box... but once you build up your 1/4 inch of fiberglass you will have a prefectly flush   finish, just be sure to tape the mounting surface of the ring so no resin will adhere to it during the build up phase and initial wet out of your fabric...if you have access to the back side of the sub ring after the initail wet out phase, then it would be a good idea to apply a coupl layers of mat to the iside of the box at the joint between ring and fabric...
depending on the shape your are trying to get on the convex portion of the box you may have to build a skeleton/ ribs out from your ring to the front of the box...mind you that all depends on how large your outter ring is and like i said what shape you are going for..
Fiberglass Guru.
philliphamby 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 13, 2006 at 12:21 AM / IP Logged  
i agree
give a man a fish he will eat for a day. teach a man to fish he will eat for a lifetime.
rujones10 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: August 16, 2006
Posted: August 16, 2006 at 2:33 AM / IP Logged  

hey im not sure if this is what you are looking for but the way i did this one was................i made 2 rings they both had the same outside diamater the bottom ring had the mounting hole size for the inner circle and the top rings inside circle was a little bigger than the speakers overall diameter to staple the fleece i put an 1/8 in ravet (i think thats how you spell it) around the ring that way when it dried it was almost flush.............hope maybee that helps

Curves going inward - Page 2 -- posted image.

Melted Fabric 
Silver - Posts: 509
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2003
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 16, 2006 at 11:25 AM / IP Logged  
Nice box, I like the tv in the center like that as if it was there as the control to modify the settings on the subs.
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
crazyoldcougar 
Copper - Posts: 185
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 03, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: August 16, 2006 at 9:34 PM / IP Logged  
rujones10 wrote:

hey im not sure if this is what you are looking for but the way i did this one was................i made 2 rings they both had the same outside diamater the bottom ring had the mounting hole size for the inner circle and the top rings inside circle was a little bigger than the speakers overall diameter to staple the fleece i put an 1/8 in RAVET (i think thats how you spell it) around the ring that way when it dried it was almost flush.............hope maybee that helps

Rabbit is the term you are looking for...the box looks nice..
Fiberglass Guru.
crazyoldcougar 
Copper - Posts: 185
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 03, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: August 16, 2006 at 9:35 PM / IP Logged  
rujones10 wrote:

hey im not sure if this is what you are looking for but the way i did this one was................i made 2 rings they both had the same outside diamater the bottom ring had the mounting hole size for the inner circle and the top rings inside circle was a little bigger than the speakers overall diameter to staple the fleece i put an 1/8 in RAVET (i think thats how you spell it) around the ring that way when it dried it was almost flush.............hope maybee that helps

Rabbit is the term you are looking for...the box looks nice..
Fiberglass Guru.
gus1 
Gold - Posts: 1,013
Gold spacespace
Joined: October 15, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: September 12, 2006 at 4:01 PM / IP Logged  
I think I know what you are going for...... You want the sub to be inside a concave area instead of the usual convex area that everyone seems to be doing.   The technique is rather the same as far as the ring, skeleton, whatever you want to call it. The only difference is attatching the fleece/stretchy stuff to the mounting ring. When you are cutting out the sub hole..... you will be left with a blank that is 1/4" smaller (assuming 1/4" bit in the router)than the actual sub-hole. Cover the edges of this with duct-tape. this is now known as a "plug" or "blank". Use this blank plug to pull the material flush, secure it with a couple screws..... maybe even cut a hole in the center that will fit your hand to aid in pulling it out.
Leave the back off of the box so that you can access from the interior easily, or, if you are doing as I did in my own car with a full tub and FG top, I made it in 2 halves...... and mated the halves once the baffle was done using windshield urathane.
Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Page of 2

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Saturday, April 27, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer