2000 Explorer with 561t remote start

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joelmessing

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 02, 2006

Posted: August 02, 2006 at 5:55 PM / IP Logged

Anyone ever done this install? I have read over the instructions and I still have a few questions. Why are there more then one active inputs? Where does the 200mA channel 2 output connect to? Where is the factory alarm rearm? Where does any of the 4-port connections go? Do I need to connect the 2nd status output/defogger?

Any help would be appreciated.

Chris Luongo

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This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: August 02, 2006 at 6:09 PM / IP Logged

I don't believe the factory remotes on that Explorer work when the engine is running...........after the car is remote started, you'll be forced to unlock the door with your key.

I would instead install a unit that has its own remotes for lock and unlock, and maybe panic if you want that too.

joelmessing

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 02, 2006

Posted: August 19, 2006 at 11:41 AM / IP Logged

How do you test for a factory alarm disarm wire. I am installing a Valet R/S on a 2000 Ford Explorer and have found two darkgreen purplw ires in the diver kick pannel. How can you test these wires to see witch is the correct wire?

Thanks,

joelmessing

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 02, 2006

Posted: August 19, 2006 at 11:43 AM / IP Logged

Anyone have any suggestions on where to stash a Valet R/S and bypass box on a 2000 For Explorer?

Thanks,

wishboneattack

Member - Posts: 32

Joined: June 23, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: August 19, 2006 at 11:53 AM / IP Logged

I can't remember the year of the last one I did, I stuck it high on the left side of the dash. I guess anywhere would do since it isn't an alarm...

I may be lost but I am making good time.

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joelmessing

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 02, 2006

Posted: August 19, 2006 at 12:10 PM / IP Logged

Tried and failed. The wire reads ~12.1V when I hot the lock or unlock it drops to 12.0 Any Ideas. One wire is coming out of a housing with a teal/blue wire. The other is by itself.

joelmessing

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 02, 2006

Posted: August 19, 2006 at 1:03 PM / IP Logged

no- How would I test for it. It is all facoty and I do not really think it has an alarm. If I hit the lock on the fob twice it beeps and it has a panic button on the fob but I have never heard the alarm.

joelmessing

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 02, 2006

Posted: August 19, 2006 at 3:10 PM / IP Logged

I have multiple yellow wires on the ignition switch. Are they all 12V +?

Chris Luongo

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Joined: May 21, 2002

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: August 19, 2006 at 3:41 PM / IP Logged

You'll find out when you test them.

JWorm

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Joined: December 11, 2002

Location: New Hampshire, United States

Posted: August 19, 2006 at 3:54 PM / IP Logged

joelmessing wrote:

Tried and failed. The wire reads ~12.1V when I hit the lock or unlock it drops to 12.0 Any Ideas. One wire is coming out of a housing with a teal/blue wire. The other is by itself.

When you hit lock or unlock? Are you using the switch on the door? I said to turn the key in the door cylinder.

Get in the truck....close all doors....hit lock on the remote. Wait 1 minute. Reach over, unlock door (don't use the remote) and open the door. Does the horn start honking? If so, you have an alarm.

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