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93 Mustang Lx , stereo build

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kfr01 
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Posted: August 20, 2006 at 11:03 PM / IP Logged  
The sub does not need a typical enclosure, but the front should be entirely sealed off from the back. If you do not do this cancellation will occur and less than optimal performance will result.
The easiest way to obtain the seal is to build an enclosure. I would build a fiberglass enclosure into the wheel well and use your MDF as the front baffle.
On the other hand, if you're just doing this for looks, continue as planned. :-)
New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
stevdart 
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Posted: August 21, 2006 at 10:07 AM / IP Logged  
Build your sub box as shown under "optimum vented box" in the manual.  I checked it out in a box-building program and this will give you the best response in your limited space.  Because of your space confinement, build the slotted port on the outside of the containment.  You can extend it along the floor.  I suggest you use strictly 3/4" MDF or fiberglass of equivalent rigidity.  And I strongly encourage you to use damping on the floor, lid, and some of the sidewall areas of the trunk to minimize the noise that the sheet metal will make...regardless of weight gain.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
jvillefinest 
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Joined: December 29, 2003
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 10:25 AM / IP Logged  

Definate on the Sound Deadener! and your trying to keep weight down and using two type R 12s? hmmmmm....

2007 Acura TSX
SQ setup in the works
5.0calypso93lx 
Member - Posts: 9
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Joined: August 19, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 1:56 PM / IP Logged  

stevdart wrote:
Build your sub box as shown under "optimum vented box" in the manual.  I checked it out in a box-building program and this will give you the best response in your limited space.  Because of your space confinement, build the slotted port on the outside of the containment.  You can extend it along the floor.  I suggest you use strictly 3/4" MDF or fiberglass of equivalent rigidity.  And I strongly encourage you to use damping on the floor, lid, and some of the sidewall areas of the trunk to minimize the noise that the sheet metal will make...regardless of weight gain.

I'm not sure what manual you are refering to?

-Alpine 9855
-Memphis 3 1/2" dash speakers
-Alpine Type S 5 1/4" door speakers
-Memphis 5"x7" rear hatch panel speakers
-Alpine MRV-F345
-Alpine MRV-T757
-Alpine Type R 12" 2 Ohm DVC Sub
5.0calypso93lx 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 1:59 PM / IP Logged  
jvillefinest wrote:

Definate on the Sound Deadener! and your trying to keep weight down and using two type R 12s? hmmmmm....

I'm only running one Type R, and the weight from the rear seat delete, cancels out what i have added so far.  If i add more weight, i'll be going over what it was originally.  I guess i could if i had to, but i prefer not to.

-Alpine 9855
-Memphis 3 1/2" dash speakers
-Alpine Type S 5 1/4" door speakers
-Memphis 5"x7" rear hatch panel speakers
-Alpine MRV-F345
-Alpine MRV-T757
-Alpine Type R 12" 2 Ohm DVC Sub
kfr01 
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Posted: August 21, 2006 at 3:15 PM / IP Logged  
Stevdart is referring to the manual for your subwoofers. It is likely available online.
New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
5.0calypso93lx 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 5:13 PM / IP Logged  

stevdart wrote:
Build your sub box as shown under "optimum vented box" in the manual.  I checked it out in a box-building program and this will give you the best response in your limited space.  Because of your space confinement, build the slotted port on the outside of the containment.  You can extend it along the floor.  I suggest you use strictly 3/4" MDF or fiberglass of equivalent rigidity.  And I strongly encourage you to use damping on the floor, lid, and some of the sidewall areas of the trunk to minimize the noise that the sheet metal will make...regardless of weight gain.

Also, i'm not familiar with what "build the slotted port on the outside of the containment, extend it along the floor", means.  Do you have any pictures of this?

Anyone have any experience hardwiring their sirius radio?

Can i just build a square "box" underneath the sub, and be done?

-Alpine 9855
-Memphis 3 1/2" dash speakers
-Alpine Type S 5 1/4" door speakers
-Memphis 5"x7" rear hatch panel speakers
-Alpine MRV-F345
-Alpine MRV-T757
-Alpine Type R 12" 2 Ohm DVC Sub
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 10:07 PM / IP Logged  
I meant to say "enclosure".  It's just saying that you don't have to build the port into the box.  This sub calls for a long port, so you can build it outside the box if you're pressed for space.  Just follow the general rules of venting:  leave a space at each end of the port of at least a few inches.
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
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