the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

How to recover door inserts?


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
rx117 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2006
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 11:13 PM / IP Logged  

Iv been working in car audio at a shop for about 6 months now , we do alot of custom work but one thing Id like to start doing is recovering door inserts with sude and vinyle and such. most newer cars have little plastic welds holding the inserts on, is there an easy way to get them off and put them back on????

Thanks,

Josh

cntrylvr79 
Silver - Posts: 582
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2006 at 11:45 PM / IP Logged  
What I've done in  the past is carefully cut them out.  Recover the insert then using a star washer and a short screw, screw the insert back to the door panel.  Of course that only works if the plastic weld has a hole in the center.  If they don't then I'll epoxy the insert back in.
Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Installer_mss 
Copper - Posts: 221
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: February 14, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: August 28, 2006 at 4:49 PM / IP Logged  
some door panels (hondas for example) i've been able to do inserts by removing the old material, taping off the areas you dont want to touch with masking tape, and using high strength spary adhesive, then using a small panel tool or 90 degree pick tool to pussh the edge into the seam between the insert and rest of the panel...if this isnt possible then try his idea.  i always say, another man made it, so i can modify it with some thinking
Melted Fabric 
Silver - Posts: 509
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2003
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 29, 2006 at 2:12 PM / IP Logged  
INSTALLER_MSS wrote:
i always say, another man made it, so i can modify it with some thinking
I like that. If it is alright with you and I am adding tht to my quote collection.
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
bellsracer 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 04, 2006 at 11:44 AM / IP Logged  
What one of our guys likes to do whenever possible is glue or create a mount for GM plastic clips and drill a small hole for the clip and remount it that way. It's removable in the future and can still come back on.
Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.
1qwkfox 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 04, 2006 at 1:33 PM / IP Logged  
some door inserts also screw in an out ..
I have never personally done a insert that has to glued/epoxied back into place but i'd probbalu get
a plastic welded and re-weld the plugs that had to be drilled out to begin with thats is how 93 s10 lower inserts are but I just glassed mine and didn't have to worry about it lol .
rx117 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: August 21, 2006
Posted: September 08, 2006 at 9:09 PM / IP Logged  
well I tested it on a guy at works car, he has a 95? honda del sol, the inserts were held in by the plastic welds . I used a  angle grinder and grinded them till they poped loose, recovered them and screwd it back on with some washers and 1/2 screws into the original posts they were welded to ill have pics up tom. 
torquehead 
Copper - Posts: 144
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 15, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 08, 2006 at 10:29 PM / IP Logged  

I have had to use many  methods plus the mentioned above depending on the job.  Small pop rivets in the original holes that the plasic welds ripped through.  Drill both pieces out if you must.  Keepin mind, there may sometimes be a small issue of the rivet not being flat enough after its popped, therefore you bring out the good old hammer and lightly flatten it a little at a time.  Be sure to drill out the hole even larger than the rivet, it prevents the plastic from splitting.

Also used a pneumatic plastic injecting gun (it heats a tip like a solder iron and injects plastic like a syringe, you stick the tip in the plastic so that it melts the original plastic - then you pull the trigger while you lift the needle to fill the void).

And like everyone else, just simple small pan-head shorty screws.  I even have used a staple gun like some post offices use to assemble cardboard cartons. 

BUT, nothing works as good as throwing a perfectly good boring factory interior panels away and fabricate exactly what you want.

I once tore a door apart to reform and re-design a new set of door panels.  A previous shop drilled holes to thread some wire zip ties to fasten the door panel sections.....Please do not do this!


Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Wednesday, May 1, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer