Honda Ridgeline RT, bypass modules?

HODL2 from bypasskit.coma and the Honda SL2 is pretty much the same piece but from 2 different resellers. The guts are the same. I think what he means on the spare key is that for the installer it's a little easier and less troublesome. Because you don't have to go through programming steps and cut or splice into any factory wiring. Some manufacturers hate aftermarket products and have in the past tried to shift blame on some things in thier vehicles being caused by aftermarket installs. The probelm with using the key is as you mentioned the customer foots the bill of the additional $200 for the key. So if your an install shop you may choose to do the spare key because it's less liabilty if something goes wrong and easier to troubleshoot. The bypass's generally work great but as with anything, you can run into headaches if it fails or is improperly installed.Steve G

In some places when it gets REAL cold the key in the box trick can be troublesome too. In northern Maine if you leave most Ford transponder keys in the box they get so cold that they don't function properly during a remote start attempt. On the other hand the bypass works because it's attacking the issue from a different angle and the cold doesn't affect it like the keys transponder. The choice is yours and on your own vehicle you get to choose your preference. With a customers vehicle the main objective is to try and get it right the first time. You aren't making money when someone comes back for warranty work caused by a crappy install.Steve G

Anthony: Sorry if I caused any confusion with the two different modules. ---The piece that does the doorlocks, hoodpin, and door trigger is a very useful and time-saving piece. It has NO drawbacks that I can think of, other than cost. ---The piece that bypasses the transponder, I've tried it, but to me, it looks like a big pain. You probably have to take the shroud all of the way off the steering column, and it is easily damaged. You have to cut and splice into various wires, some of which cannot be tested with ordinary test lights/multimeters, because they carry data, not power or ground. It would be easy to hook things up wrong and damage something. If anything goes wrong with the car's anti-theft system in the future, the dealer is going to cry and blame you. Purely from a professional-installer point of view, if a customer wants me to install one of those things, I'd say roughly $40 extra for labor. ---Besides all that, who quoted you $200 for a key? Maybe that's for the fancy key with the remote in it? All you need for remote start is a regular black key, or gray valet key. Even though the key will be expensive, the guy at the dealer's parts counter can program the key himself......you don't have to pay 1/2 hour labor for the mechanics to program it, like some other cars. An aftermarket transponder key is $13.25 here (go to bottom of page): http://www.howardkeys.com/pdf/AutomotiveKeys/HondaAcura.pdf Also, some locksmiths have the correct tools to program the key, and they might charge less than the dealer.

Chris Luongo wrote: ---The piece that bypasses the transponder, I've tried it, but to me, it looks like a big pain. You probably have to take the shroud all of the way off the steering column, and it is easily damaged. You have to cut and splice into various wires, some of which cannot be tested with ordinary test lights/multimeters, because they carry data, not power or ground. It would be easy to hook things up wrong and damage something. If anything goes wrong with the car's anti-theft system in the future, the dealer is going to cry and blame you. Purely from a professional-installer point of view, if a customer wants me to install one of those things, I'd say roughly $40 extra for labor.

I actually like the PKH3 a lot. That is the Trilogix version of the key bypass that is discussed in this thread. Just 5 wires to hook up. I also never have to remove the steering column shroud when installing it, so that eliminates the possibility of breaking those fragile clips. For an inexperienced installer, they probably will have to remove the shroud to find the correct wires. As far as cost goes, the PKH3 is one of the cheapest data modules out there for a dealer.

Will the PKH3 work on the ridgeline? I did a search for it and it listed a bunch of Honda's and Acura's but the Ridgeline was not on there.  So is the Ridgeline a difficult vehicle to do a remote start on with a bypass kit?  I really dont like the idea of just putting a key in a box and hiding it somewhere in the truck.  These bypasses seem easy usally about 5 wires but everyone seems to be warning me of them.

Chris you said

Sorry if I caused any confusion with the two different modules.

---The piece that does the doorlocks, hoodpin, and door trigger is a very useful and time-saving piece. It has NO drawbacks that I can think of, other than cost. ---The piece that bypasses the transponder, I've tried it, but to me, it looks like a big pain.

I thought the SL2 and the CANSL where practically  the same unit and the CANSL just had the extra features of allowing you to wire your security system brain to the CANSL to control locks, hood pin ect by tapping wires off the CANSL unit and not having to find them in the car??  I must be confused...I saw these devices as a win win situation not only do I get a transponder bypass but I could just wire my security system to this unit saving me having to tap all those wires in the truck?....

Someone Straighten me out...

Anthony

Anthony, I've never seen or used an SL2, CANSL, or ANY of the pieces that bypass the transponder key. I've ONLY used the HODL2 from Trilogix, which can be found at www.bypasskit.com. Probably, some of the other pieces mentioned above are just rebadged versions of the HODL2 sold under a different name, but I'm not sure. The HODL2 does NOT take care of the transponder key in ANY way----- it only serves to control the locks, panic (I think?), door trigger, hoodpin, and factory alarm (if you have it). These are your choices: 1. HODL2 ---and--- PKH3 2. HODL2 ---and--- TBKIII (using your spare key) 3. No HODL 2 (wire up the locks yourself), ---and--- PKH3 ---or--- TBKIII 4. Buy no modules at all, wire up the locks yourself, and make your own TBKIII out of a relay and scrap wire, using your own spare key. Also, are you concerned about putting a spare key hidden in your truck for security reasons? You can cut or grind some of the metal shaft, and then even if someone finds the key, they can't use it to start the car. Of course, they can always break the ignition open the old-fashioned way....... and then use a jumper wire to trigger the bypass module, and they've just gotten around the transponder......... but that is true no matter what type of bypass module you use.

Well, the Hondas ALL come with 2 master (black) and 1 valet (grey) key. If you bought the vehicle new, and you didn't get 3 keys, the stealership owes you a key. On about 90% of the Ridgelines out there, you can use some form of data box for your transponder. Be it a 556H, HON3, whatever.... if it works on the 2004 and newer Accord, it will work on the Ridgeline (the only Hondas on the highway that use a different transponder are the Fit and the new Civic right now...... everything else is the last generation). You will get the odd one that will not successfully program a bypass. Haven't ever figured out why either, it's just that way at times. Out comes valet key in a box. THe easiest way to see if a Honda has content theft security is to open the hood, and look carefully at the hoodlatch. If it has a microswitch in it, it has content theft. No OEM hoodswitch, no OEM alarm. The other indicator is the red LED in the instrument cluster that flashes upon locking. The easiest way to test for the ability to roll the windows down by pulsing thingies in the door is to use the key in the door....... try unlocking and locking the doors.... unlock and hold, etc..... if the windows don't move, then you will be busting out the window modules of some sorts. Realistically, they are a pretty easy vehicle. All doorlocks, doorpins, parklights, brake, ignition switch stuff can all be had at the MICU (which also looks surprisingly identical to the MICU that lives in the Accord and Odessy) Also known as the fusebox. We generally get at minimum one Ridgeline a month (do a lot of work for a pretty major Honda dealer in the area..... at least a car a week rolls through the shop, and probably 80% of the vehicles they sell are sold with either remote start, video, or some form of audio upgrade) Great little trucks..... wish they came in a diesel version..... Gus Wherever I go, that is where I end up......