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Ultrastart 4560, '97 F350


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iskidoo 
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Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:28 PM / IP Logged  
hairbear65 wrote:

Lock/Unlock Connector (4pin red)

Green Lock(-) programmable 250ma LOCK Output

should hook to PINK / YELLOW wire

Red 12volts 250ma 12volt output for relays

not needed

Blue Unlock(-) PROGRAMMABLE 250MA UNLOCK output

should hook to PINK/Lt GReen wire

Pink 2nd Unlock(-) Ouput when (lock symbol) is pressed twice within three seconds

not needed

AUXILIARY SENSOR CONNECTOR(4PIN White)

Blue Pre-Warn Input

not needed

Green Full Warn Input

"

Black ground Output

"

Red 12volt output

"

Is this connector even needed...as I do not have any type shock sensors...as you stated before?

If you want to add a sensor later you hook it here

AUXILIARY CONNECTOR (3PIN White)

GREEn Horn(-) 250ma horn output. Programmable auxiliry #5 output

Used to power an optional relay to blow the horn during alarm and arm/disarm

Pink Auxiliry#6(-) 250ma auxiliary #6 output

optional accessories

Blue Disconnect(+) Positive disconnect. Programmable positive start input.

This should be for adding a push button or temperature probe to activate remote start(optional)

I think I know some of the hook-ups...but I'd like you to verfiy them Steve..if you don't mind. I have remote door locks on my Ford.....Do you know if I need relays to power my door locks or Do I just tap inot the factor system?

I think you should be okay to just hook to the small guage door trigger wires. Make sure the wires aren;t larger guage becasue those would require relays. So you want to hook into the same wires the keyless system is using.

Thats all the hookups on this thing...

Thanx again Tom

 

Steve G
hairbear65 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: December 25, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged  

iskidoo wrote:
round 2:
1. I dont believe you will need that wire for your truck.
2. this is optional. you can use a relay to break the starter wire in 2 while the alarm is armed. It also keeps you from accidentally regrinding the starter motor should you get into the remotely started truck and by habbit turn the key all the way over.
3. Disarm - depends on whether or not your truck has a factory security system. If so you wire it to the FACTORY ALARM DISARM   DARK GREEN/ PURPLE (-)   IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
4. You shouldn't need this unless you want to use it to trigger a power window roll-up module or something.
5. This would be used to turn on a security ignition bypass but i don't believe that yours has one if it's a super-duty.
6. hook this to the wire that goes negative when you open any of the doors. Yours is Positive trigger so you wont use this wire.
12. looks like you found that already
14. should only need if it's being installed on a manual transmisson vehicle. Is this automatic or manual?

So..I will be able to delete the first six wires. My truck is a OLD Body style Ford ..the 97' F350 still kept the old style body. It does not have any type of FACTORY security on it and its a automatic. On #12..Do I have to install a iamp  diode inline for constant drain on the battery? I've read about this...just not sure it applies.

I'm really not interested in the alarm on this...just wanted the LCD display that showed if the truck is locked or unlocked and if it is running or not. Those are the downfalls to my wifes system...Many times we've hit the buttons by accident...and the truck would run the 15minutes then shut-off....or if you're somewhere at a distance and you try and start it...you never know if it worked or not til you get to the vehicle.

The less wires I need to hookup..the better. it seems like I'll be able to delete alot of them.

Tom

iskidoo 
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Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:39 PM / IP Logged  
Not sure about the diode. Haven't done your particular truck but if you read that I wouldn't think it was a bad idea. It can't hurt to add it.
Steve G
iskidoo 
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Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:45 PM / IP Logged  
Doesn't that unit have a setting that allows the unit to automatically wait 15 seconds before trying to start? I would use that instead of trying to wire the Wait-to-start.
Steve G
iskidoo 
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Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:52 PM / IP Logged  
Look on page 19 of the install manual
Setting 2 14pin Connector- Gas/Diesel Mode (Blue wire on 14-pin)
1) (-) Input 1 Flash/chirp (-) Glow Plug input. Waits maximum 30 seconds then starts.
2) Time Delay 2 Flashes/chirps Waits for approximately 15 seconds then remote starts.
*3) Gas/ (+) Input 3 Flashes/chirps Waits 2 seconds to start if no diesel input is detected.
http://ultrastarters.com/manuals_download_pdf/English/MAN-45XX-INSTALL-U.pdf
Steve G
iskidoo 
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Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:55 PM / IP Logged  
Actually setting 1 looks like it may work as well without the need of actually hooking up the wire. It may just wait for a negative input but if it doesn't get one it just tries to start anyway after 30 seconds.
Steve G
hairbear65 
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Member spacespace
Joined: December 25, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: August 27, 2006 at 3:58 PM / IP Logged  

Have you ever installed a 4560A-XR-LT series? just wondering how good they really are.

Still raining out so I'm on hold.

Thanx Tom

iskidoo 
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Posted: August 27, 2006 at 4:01 PM / IP Logged  
nope nothing 2-way from ultrastarts, mostly 1250 & 1250M and a 1600. I have a few XR units but they are 1 way units as well.
Steve G
iskidoo 
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Posted: August 27, 2006 at 4:08 PM / IP Logged  
I actually have the Viper 79oxv for the same reason as you. I wanted to know when and if I actually started my car from work cuz I couldn't see it. I was looking on here and reading about the new Viper 5900 which has 1 mile range. But since I already took out a perfectly good remote start/keyless unit to put in the 790xv, I think I'll just leave it for now.
Steve G
iskidoo 
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Posted: August 27, 2006 at 4:10 PM / IP Logged  
I would definately hook up the few extra wires though if I were you to fully utilize the alarm features. It's not that much extra work.
Steve G
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