$900 ford bill for diag. current draw

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KarTuneMan

Platinum - Posts: 7,056

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Joined: December 14, 2004

Location: Isle Of Man

Posted: September 10, 2006 at 8:58 PM / IP Logged

You should print evey page of this dialog and mail it to the service boss. make sure in one last post, to put up all of the dealerships info for ALL to see, near and far! That is completely ridiculous....these guys no NOTHING about service, NOTHING!

johnmax

Copper - Posts: 131

Joined: November 15, 2003

Posted: September 11, 2006 at 4:07 PM / IP Logged

We have had many problems with fords like this. Turns out to be either the battery saver circuit or the GEM module.

On another note, i had an argument with an independent mechanic last week about an alarm killing a battery. Of course i checked it out and unplugged the brain, and found a .5a draw on the factory dome light fuse. So he later bills the customer saying the alarm was the cause. I ask him "how did you find that since the alarm is disconnected?". he says that the harness being tied in by itself was causing the draw! So I ask him how much of a draw did he find and he tells me "there was a 12 volt draw". OH REALLY!? DUH!! I ask how many amp draw did you see from my alarm harness and of course i get "Uhhhhh amps uhh i dont know/remember". Well i called him an incompetent idiot and that was it. Idiots.

thepencil

Gold - Posts: 1,526

Joined: December 16, 2002

Location: Canada

Posted: September 11, 2006 at 8:37 PM / IP Logged

Dealership work is like any boyfriend and girlfriend relationship. They stay together until someone better comes along and sweep them off their feet and you are on your own afterward. Basically, when things are good everything is great, but when things are bad it can get pretty nasty.

johnmax, about the "independent mechanic" person. If they have one, that's their best friend when they need a shoulder to cry on after the break-up.

Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. $900 ford bill for diag. current draw - Page 2 -- posted image.

mxxmikexx

Silver - Posts: 796

Joined: September 18, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: September 12, 2006 at 8:15 AM / IP Logged

johnmax, you said "We have had many problems with fords like this. Turns out to be either the battery saver circuit or the GEM module." so what was the final outcome in those circumstances?, did Ford actually replace whichever was bad, have you had these problems on the same explorers, or are you just saying youve had problems with fords in general? be more specific please. I've been installing for 10+ years and I have never had to deal with this much B.S. Over a basic alarm and remote starter install.

Mad Scientists

Silver - Posts: 380

Joined: February 07, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: September 12, 2006 at 8:27 PM / IP Logged

mxxmikexx wrote:

update:

today I find out that "we" are not allowed back on the dealerships property because we were rude and insulted the technician by questioning his abilities to take 10 hours to determine that the alarm is causing the problem. Even tho we had a perfectly civil conversation with the tech,no verbal attacks were made, and now the service manager is saying otherwise now and telling us we are not allowed back there unless we are with the owner of the truck and are only there to pick it up and basically leave. can you believe this crap? I cant wait to get this truck back to see if the locks are even cycling like the tech is claiming, I've never seen it do it, nor has the tech who drives this truck ever experience the problem either.

So now basically we stand to lose this t-mobile account which has been very good for us, all because of all this B.S.

If the t-mobile account is worth $900 to you, you eat the costs and carry on. $90/hr is low for a dealer.. most that I'm aware of are over $100/hr at this point. At this point it's your word against theirs.. all I could suggest at this point is to make sure everything is in writing. If the problem's gone, then it's gone, but if it's still there after $900 at the dealer then take it to another dealer or a very good indie and make sure you tell them what the situation is, and that everything is documented.

Been there, done that. - won.

Jim

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au5599

Copper - Posts: 94

Joined: December 22, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: September 14, 2006 at 4:22 PM / IP Logged

Simple, pay the $900 for now. Check the vehicle out. If problem is tstill there remove all traces of system. Then take it to another dealer. If they find problem and fix it take the paperwork to manager of service at first dealership then go directly to Ford.

I have had a relay do this to a wire bare enough to feed stuff it wasnt suppose to. So it could still do it without the brain in there.

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john ogrady

Copper - Posts: 82

Joined: February 25, 2006

Location: Canada

Posted: September 14, 2006 at 8:58 PM / IP Logged

Years ago a draw test on a vehicle was hook up your amp meter and a reading at rest and then start pulling fuses or dis-connecting things until you find the source of the draw.Now a average vehicle has approx 10 computers in them and it takes 3/4 of an hour before they go into sleep mode before you can take a draw test.So if you open the door to take out a couple more fuses and the dome light comes on you will have to wait another 3/4 hour because the dome light is controlled by one of the computers.The draw should be less than 50ma.

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$900 ford bill for diag. current draw

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