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battery and alternator


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kingerik68 
Member - Posts: 16
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Joined: May 31, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 19, 2006 at 8:51 PM / IP Logged  
I own a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Classic and am currently looking to purchase a new system after my last one blew. My old subs were running at about 300 watts (600 total). I plan on only upgrading by 100 watts per sub, but I'm also adding an amp (75 watts by 4 RMS) for my component speakers. I've had problems with my charging system before and have replaced my alternator, battery, and starter in the past 8 months. I was wondering which of these is affected the most by my sound system, as this will determine which of these I will upgrade first. I also have a 1.0 F cap if this matters (I heard this puts more strain on the alternator). Thanks for the help!
Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: September 19, 2006 at 10:38 PM / IP Logged  
I would start with the alternator to upgrade to a HO alternator IMO. This will affect you the most and you will get the most bang for the buck by changing out the alternator.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
bellsracer 
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Joined: January 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 20, 2006 at 12:55 AM / IP Logged  

Start with the Alternator like VM said.

Then take a total amperage draw from your system (just add the fuses) add 50 amps to that (for the car and possible misc equipment on it.). If your alternator output is higher than the total, a cap will not be required but recommended. If your alternator is less than the total but within 30-35 amps upgrade the cap. If more than 35 amps below the total, then upgrade the battery next.

We recommend 1.5 Farads for every 1000 watts. Industry "standard" is 1 Farad for every 1000 watts. It doesn't as big a strain as many would have you believe. It'll actually help out and give you a 70 amp boost for a second without fluctuating the voltage. Second, draining it completely doesn't deep cycle them unlike regular car batteries. So you can keep up the pump on different days will minimal if any effect. Batteries give you a long boost time, but they unfortunately deep cycle and lose some energy capacity (averages 10-20% drop in capacity, If 2 or more cells go bad in the battery, then the battery will need to be replaced or it can cause problems for the vehicle).

Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
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supradude 
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Joined: September 21, 2004
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: September 20, 2006 at 7:55 AM / IP Logged  
This is my advice. Get the HO alternator like Velocity Motors suggested. That is probably all you'll need. As far as the cap goes, if you already have one, you can use it it you prefer to. As far as buying one, I wouldn't. I, and most others, will tell you they are pretty much a waste. If you haven't done the "big 3" upgrade, do that too. 
'85 Toy
bellsracer 
Silver - Posts: 703
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Joined: January 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 20, 2006 at 8:24 PM / IP Logged  
nouseforaname wrote:
you mention to allow 50 amps for normal vehicle functions. i just noticed in another topic (deciding on proper cap or something like that) that you told that guy to allow only 35 amps for normal vehicle functions. now i know every vehicle is different, but this could get very confusing for the newbies.
Hehe thanks for catching that. 35 amps for the car to operate, 15 for the average HU.
Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.

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