2003 honda accord, aps-997

  Well guys i know for sure the problem is in the wiring from the fuse box to the switch, but i'm still looking. The light control switch has to run through the wiper switch before making it's way down the harness to the fusebox and it's here I can't locate the exact issue. And for the love of god i can't locate the relays for the lights. They are not in the cabin fuse box or in the underhood box that i can see. I hear them clicking as they should when I jump ground the prk lights somewhere near the outside box . The haynes manual shows the diagram but other thatn that it's useless.        I'm tempted to let him take the care back to Honda but they refuse to work on the car untill I remove the alarm.  Which the customer states that if I do remove the alarm for honda then he wants me to put it back in after honda works on it, I simply don't have that kind of time right now. I have 13 sportbikes in the shop right now and thats where I make my real money. AAAARRGG

honorabledog wrote: I will re- wire the white wire to a constant source then, the one I tapped into was the headlight wire from switch that is supposed to have power at all times. Could I have zapped a plug or etc.? The things I tried in the last hour were: 1Disconnected the power for 20 minutes while I swapped the fuse box again. no-effect 2.Removed all power to alarm and remote start, still no effect 3. Reconnected the alarm prk lights in reverse, no effect 4. Disconnected th light switch at column with no effect,    the prk lights still stay on???  I'm running out of ideas..   You mentioned you got your brakes at the same spot as the prk light harness, I got mine directly at the brake pedal switch, do you think that could be an issue? Thanks again,  Mike

--What do you mean by "the headlight wire from the switch that is supposed to have power at all times?" 1, what wire is it...... and 2, did you first test it to see that it really did have power all the time? --The ONLY thing the Audiovox unit does is, when it "wants" the parking lights to be on, it simply jumps the white, and the WHITE/ red, together. --Therefore, if you connected the white wire to one place in the Honda, and the WHITE/ red to another.........what is effectively happening is that every time the alarm is used, those two Honda wires are jumped together. --The RED / black parking light wire in the kick panel rests as a ground, and then become positive when the lights are on......probably you know that. --If the alarm was operated with the Honda's parking lights OFF, you have effectively applied a ground to that other wire in the steering column.....whatever it was. --If the alarm was operated while the Honda's parking lights were ON, you have effectively applied positive power to the wire in the steering column. --In either case, if you don't really know what the wire in the column really was, it will probably be bad to be putting power or ground to it. --It sounds like we might be getting closer to figuring out what happened.......explain the wire you used in the steering column, and maybe that will help explain it. --I think you're right about the negative-trigger, parking light wire from the switch, first going through the wiper switch...........from there, it communicates with the rest of the car through data signal. It is possible that the MICU (fuse box) is okay, but the headlight switch or wiper switch are bad. Take the column cover apart, and test the RED / black wire at the headlight switch....... it should be making a ground whenever you move the switch to the on position........ is it? Post back with results. --Nothing wrong with getting brake at the brake pedal switch; you should be fine there. I just get it in the kick panel because A, I don't have to bend into an awkard position to hook it up, and B, the job comes out neater if you get as many wires in one spot as possible.