4 channel Amp

Ok, this deals with a 04 Mitsubishi Diamante that had the infinity sound system.

Here are the new components:

If you have a four channel amp use all four channels. One door one channel other door other channel an so on...... put your highs amp on HP. DO NOT try to get bass out of those door speakers. Mid range an highs only. Factory amps are wired for a specific ohms rating. yours is not designed for that.

The car has 8 speakers if you don't include the subs.

3 1/2 Left    + -  (wire set 1)

The 3 1/2's and the tweeters both share the same + and the same - wire.  That wiring is all up under the dash and I'm not going to run new wire and separate them.  The doors have thier own - and + wires.

thats 6 sets of + and - wires altogether

Set 1 and 2 on channel 1

or

or

run set 1 and 2 to the head unit and use the amp for the rest?

If by this you mean that you have wired the car's stock speakers along with the 3 way speakers and are running them off of the first two channels of your amp, this could be a problem. Also, how are the new 3 ways mounted? If they are not sealed well from the listening compartment you will get cancellation.

As far as bass goes, you can get bass from mids, you won't get sub bass. If the speakers are good and have are enclosed properly, they can give you very good bass response.

It sounds like you are running the tweet, 3.5, and 6.5 all in parallel...I'm suprised the amp isn't going into protect mode. Even if the stock speakers were at 6 ohm each that would bring the impedence down below 2 ohms unless the 6.5 is in series with the parallel tweet/3/5 combination. If this is the case, the tweet and 3.5 are 4 ohm each, they may be getting more power from the amp as they are sitting at a 2 ohm load and taking 2/3 of the amps output where the 6.5 is sitting at 4 ohms and getting only 1/3 of the output.

Long story short (too late), if the 6.5" are mounted good, I, too would start by disconnecting the tweet/3.5" combination and leave only the 6.5 and see how it sounds then.

[quote]If by this you mean that you have wired the car's stock speakers along with the 3 way speakers and are running them off of the first two channels of your amp, this could be a problem.[/quote]

That is excatly how they are being ran.  This is how the installer at a local best Buy told me to run them......no wonder! The 3 ways in the doors are mounted flush.  It's definately a Ohm related issue as you have stated as to why the 3 ways are underpowered.  If I disconnect the tweets and the dash and it causes the door speakers to sound perfect, what would you suggest I do to power up the tweets and 3 1/2's?  I don't know where the set of wires for each combine, and hardwiring them to either another amp or to the head unit itself would be a pain.  I will find out how the factory setup is wired be it series or parrallel.  That should provide more insight as to what i have to do. 

Thanks for the reply!

Personally, I would set the front stage with just your aftermarket speakers. It would be easier to set good staging and the SQ would be better.

If you feel you really want the stocks connected, I would run the tweet/3.5" combination in series from the HU. You probably can't (and if you can, shouldn't, I think) run them parallel off of the HU. I don't know of any that can handle 2 ohm loads, plus, you don't want that much heat around your HU even if it could handle it. I'd connect them as follows:

How would I tell if the 3.5/tweet combination is wired in series or parallel from the factory?  Is there a tecnique to use when you can't see how the wires are connected?  At some point, they are hooked upto a crossover of some sort located behind the dash.  The + and - wire that controls both of them then runs to the trunk where the factory amp was mounted on the rear deck.  This is the + BLACK/ red and - RED / white wire.  (There's another + BLACK/ red and - RED / white wire that comes from the harness but that leads right to the aftermarket door speakers that I installed) Is it safe to assume that the are 3.5/tweet come from the factory connected in series?  If so, I can just run speaker wire from the factory wire that comes out of the harness in the trunk upto the head unit so I dont have to worry about running wires from the tweeter through the door.  I'll put a multimeter on each of the factory speakers to see what the resistance is.  Whats your best guess as to how the factory wires the system as far as how the tweet/3.5 is ran along with the factory 6 1/2's?  My guess is that the factory amp is a 4 channel amp.  Could I be wrong?

Your logic makes sense. I just don't know how the x-over would factor into that.

Anyone know what the impedence is for the stock component set for this Diamante? This will help determine what can be done. My preference is still to disconnect the components, or run them off of the HU if the impedence is okay. Hopefully someone can answer that one.