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Interfacing 4 Gauge Wire to Relay?


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jbeletti 
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Joined: February 06, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 23, 2006 at 2:21 PM / IP Logged  

I installed an auxilliary battery in my 2005 Dodge RAM to power my toys (CarPC, Router, USB Hub, & IP Camera).  I used a Sure Power battery isolator, then ran 4 gauge wire from it to the aux battery.  100 amp circuit breakers used at each end of the positive cable.

Connected to the aux battery is a 12 position Blue Sea Systems fuse block.  I used short lengths of 4 gauge wire from the positive and neative terminals of the aux battery to connect it to the fuse block.

Now I want to install a small dash mounted switch to cut the power at the input of the fuse block.  I have 30 amp relays with and without diode as well as the switch I want to use.

Question is, what is the best way to interface huge 4 gauge wire to the male spade terminals of an automotive relay?  I did not buy a wiring harness/connector for the relay but I could pick one up.

Technically, I don't "need" to use 4 gauge from the battery to the fuse block.  I had the wire and I had the copper lugs and solder slugs as well as heat shrink, a torch and heat gun so I used what I had and made it nice, if not over-built for my small overall load.

I was thining of make a short jumper with a female spade terminal on one end and a ring terminal on the other end.  I'd connect the spade terminal to the relay (pin 30) and bolt (?) the ring terminal to the copper lug fro the 4 gauge battery jumper.  Does this sound viable?

In fact, when I was wiring in the battery isolator, I removed the Dodge supplied output jummper from the alternator to the battery.  Interestingly enough, it was about 4 gauge and reduced way down to a ring terminal to connect to the bolt on the starting battery terminal clamp.  So I guess this has been done.  Maybe I should just use that jumper and replae the ring terminal with a female spade?

Just worried aout the stress applied to the relay terminals by medium to heavy gauge wire.  Maybe the harness is the way to go.

Any input/validation is appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim 

Interfacing 4 Gauge Wire to Relay? -- posted image.

hotwaterwizard 
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Joined: December 11, 2003
Location: California, United States
Posted: October 26, 2006 at 8:50 AM / IP Logged  

Try a Ford Starter Solenoid olr a Wench Solenoid,

http://www.ecovantageenergy.com/catalog/items/item1585.htm

http://www.ecovantageenergy.com/catalog/items/item1584.htm

John DeRosa (Hotwaterwizard)
Stockton California
When in doubt, try it out !
Custom_Jim 
Copper - Posts: 210
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Joined: November 28, 2003
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: October 26, 2006 at 12:40 PM / IP Logged  

I would stay away from the ford starter solenoids as they are only for intermittent use. The one hotwaterwizard linked to specs out as continious duty.

Jim

1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street
johnmax 
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Joined: November 15, 2003
Posted: October 26, 2006 at 1:12 PM / IP Logged  
Stinger or PAC.I think they have 80 and 200 amp.
jbeletti 
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Posted: October 26, 2006 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged  
Hi guys,
I have already prety much completed the install that was in the image. So I already have the Sure Power isolator - no need for the soleniod.
I'm relly looking for input on ideas for connecting 4 gauge wire to a relay. Big wire to tiny spade terminal.
If you are saying to use a soleniod for that, I am not sure what I'd need a solenoid for that. Sorry if I am misunderstanding.
Thanks,
Jim
Custom_Jim 
Copper - Posts: 210
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2003
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: October 26, 2006 at 8:44 PM / IP Logged  

Could you use a distribution block to convert the 4 gauge to as many outputs as needed ?. Something like this which car stereo shops have but do not have as many outputs.

http://www.bussmann.com/library/bifs/1117.pdf

Jim

1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street
electrostatic 
Copper - Posts: 154
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Posted: October 26, 2006 at 9:13 PM / IP Logged  
although there are other ways to do it this method will work. use uninsulated terminal of correct size. cut off enough strands to allow 4 gauge to fit terminal, solder, and heat shrink.
Prove your connections, use a meter!
I promise, I'll behave!
hotwaterwizard 
Silver - Posts: 1,350
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Posted: October 26, 2006 at 11:09 PM / IP Logged  

A tiny relay will fry!

A solenoid is another name for a big relay.

Just a fancy name.

A big relay can handle big loads. I would never hook a 4 gage wire to a little cube relay.

As soon as you run a big load the relay will melt and possibly catch your car on fire.

John DeRosa (Hotwaterwizard)
Stockton California
When in doubt, try it out !
jbeletti 
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Posted: October 27, 2006 at 8:00 AM / IP Logged  
Hi guys,
Thanks for all the suggestions so far.
I looked at the Bussman PDBs. If I could find one locally, that would work.
Cutting down the 4 gauge to fit a spade terminal would also work but there may be too much stress on the connector with that huge cable.
As for using a solenoid instead of a small relay - now I am getting what you are saying. That said though, my max load is 15 amps. No amplifiers or any other high in-rush current devices. So with 15 amps max on a cheap 30 amp cube relay, is that still too much?
Thanks again everyone.
Jim
jbeletti 
Member - Posts: 36
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Joined: February 06, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 27, 2006 at 8:20 AM / IP Logged  
I researched solenoids a bity and I am tending to agree with HWW above. Even though I am not switching a high-current load, my connectivity issue is solved using a solenoid and it does give me room to grow.
Not sure if I am allowed to post links to product here. But I guess I'll risk it to get feedback. I looked at the Cole Hersee website to see their solenoids, then I sourced them at West Marine. The one I am considering is a 65 amp continuous load unit, insulated and rated for 12 volt use. There are many variantions out there too. Non-insulated, plasticised case, intermittent duty only, higher and lower current rated etc.
Here's the one I am considering.
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