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Edges of glassed pieces.


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alphalanos 
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Posted: November 24, 2006 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  

How do shops get their peices to have such sharp , perfect edges? I want to make some kickpanels (6.5 component set) but I havent been able to make any pieces with good edges for a factory look. My method is MDF frame, stretch fleece, glass, fill, sand. I'd like to cover with vinyl but I need help with making that look good.  I want it to look something like this:

http://http://stereorama.com/installs/lexus_rx300/09.jpg

master5 
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Posted: November 24, 2006 at 8:46 PM / IP Logged  

Unfortunatly the link you left doesn't work but regardless....

if you are vinyl wrapping or painting then your finish is critical...vinyl shows everything..even a speck of dirt. The key to sharp, straight factory looking edges is sanding, filling, patience..and more sanding. Don't wrap the piece until it looks perfect and when you do keep all the surfaces that will be exposed very clean.

I reccomend stretch vinyl and heat activated glue (from select products) when wrapping anything curvy because this stuff will strech like taffy when heated and once the glue sets it holds its form forever. Very durable stuff too, perfect for kicks.

Good Luck

bballguy162006 
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Posted: November 24, 2006 at 8:53 PM / IP Logged  

That link isn't working for me so I was not able to view the picture.

But I'll try my best with what you wrote.  Don't use the mdf to frame the kickpanels (I'm talking about the base not the speaker ring), instead lay a couple layers of fiberglass down on the kickpanel area untill it gets pretty sturdy, then trace on the fiberglass, the shape that you want the base to be, cut it to the traced dimensions (with a rotary cutting tool if you have one).  Then go through the rest of the process (strech fleece, glass, fill, etc)

I hope that helps.  You should be able to make sharp edges that way, if it is the base of the enclosure that you were talking about.

master5 
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Posted: November 24, 2006 at 8:55 PM / IP Logged  

Ok I found the link..you have one to many "http's" on the one you posted.

But it still hold true what I stated. The edges on the countersink if doing it this way will be much simpler for you if you have router skills and know how to make jigs. If not you can still accomplish a nice finish by hand sanding, which you will always need to do regardless...but it does cut down on time/labor if you have router skills for this type of work.

alphalanos 
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Posted: November 24, 2006 at 8:57 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry about that. http://stereorama.com/installs/lexus_rx300/09.jpg

The problem with my edges comes in when the fleece acutally meets the edge of the glass. When I sand around the edges, the two peices (front and base peice) begin to separate.

alphalanos 
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Posted: November 24, 2006 at 8:59 PM / IP Logged  
I think this particular shop actually uses a thin strip of plastic to make that edge. Then they use alot of filler to make the rest of it. Maybe they make the 'base' mold from glass, then attach the plastic trim, then fill it, sand etc. Then make the insert (green peice) Im just brainstorming.
master5 
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Posted: November 24, 2006 at 9:05 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, if you are having to sand it that far your original piece might not be straight enough to begin with. However, one of the cool things about glassing is you can add more if needed.

Also filling can be used (bondo) but for real strength I would want the glass to be the support and the bondo or whatever you use for fill just be for fine cosmetic/shapings.

I also use a small electric sander for edges and tight areas, it has a triangle shaped head and really cuts time. Home depot, lowes, sears etc should all have these small sanders.

A small air grinder is great for cutting with initial leveling of rough surfaces after glassing/fleecing.

master5 
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Posted: November 24, 2006 at 9:10 PM / IP Logged  

Yes, you can make an "insert" like that for the countersink by attaching a strip of thin ABS plastic around an MDF speaker mount, and use formica, mirror plexi or anything you can imagine for the mounting plate. But still cutting with a router and using jigs will cut down on time since the product will hardly need any shaping afterwards.

But the more you sand, fill, sand the better the finished product. Nothing worse then going through all that work and it looks like ass or has sloppy edges..or wrinkled vinyl..that just makes me sick.

It's worth it to take the time and pride to really make it perfect.

alphalanos 
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Posted: November 24, 2006 at 9:14 PM / IP Logged  
Ok thanks for the help. I guess all I really need to do is plan, and take my time on it. Full time college and 30 hrs working plus girlfriend doesnt really leave alot of time lol. Thanks again Ill post up when I get some work done.
alphalanos 
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Joined: November 19, 2006
Posted: November 24, 2006 at 9:27 PM / IP Logged  
One more thing. Should I use any kind of sound dampening material or acoustic foam inside the kicks? They should be close to the maufacturer's sealed enclosure volume also right?
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