2002 Dodge Grand Caravan, remote start

bah on the power wire

follow the directions for the bypasskit about the parking lights

the locks will be fixed for sure when you tag that arm/disarm (PURPLE / lightblue) wire with your bypasskit -  

if equipped, what are you using for your sentry key bypass?

Thanks guys,

Velocity Motors.  I did find these power wires and this is what I used.  I tied into both the wires that had 12 volts on them, from the battery so that I was not putting to much drain on one of them.  My Remote Start has 2 seperate power wires to do this with, so this is why I did it this way.

I still have not had a chance to work on it again, I might give it a shot tonight, if not it may be Saturday before I get a shot at it again.

I will do as you guys have stated.  As to the Bypass Kit, I am using the one CHDL 1b -PK, that has the Bypass all built into it, so I Only have this module and the Remote Start.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Also does anyone have a clue what the setting should be for the starter to run on this exact car?  Its set by default to .6 seconds, but thats not long enough to crank it, the next is .8 then 1.0 I have not messed with this yet, but figured I would just try trial and error.  But if you guys have knowledge of it and can tell me what it should be set to.

I tied the Negative side of the Parking lights right into the Switch location, on the back of the switch.  This was pretty easy as the box popped right out.  I will need to double check this, as I did tape it back up very good so I will not beable to see the wire I tied into, I have a feeling that it might be the Head Lights instead of the parking light.

I will post back what I find, I am going to try to get into it tonight if I can.

Bryan

To me you have hooked the 2nd starter wire up incorrectly cause I have heard of the same problem when you go to remote start it and it just cranks over and doesn't start

has anyone else heard of this??

o5 GT,

I think you were correct.  I unhooked my Relay and resistors and Diodes and tied the crank wire into the starter in + purple wire on the CHDL 1b PK module.  It now will start, sometimes it takes 2 cranks for it to start up, but I think the Plugs need to be changed, so thats on my list for this weekend.

As to the Door Locks, I had the Pink and White wire hooked up, but it was tied into the Parking lights wire.  I am not sure how I screwed that up, other than it was right above the GREEN/ Purple wire on the Listed wires to tie into, and I tied it to the wrong one in the BCM connector.  I fixed this and got it to the right Purple and Green wire. 

By the Way, if you tie into the Purple and Green Wire on Connector 5, it will run your Windshield washer fluid sprayer, lol.

Ok, Now everything is working except for my Door Locks.  The Doors will lock and unlock fine.  I have the Wires from my Remote Start connected to the Correct Wires on the CHDL 1b PK module, also.  But when I press the Lock button on the remote, the doors unlock and vice versa.  So the wires in the CHDL 1b PK are wrong, I do Believe.  I found this out last night, after I got it all put back together.

I am about to call Bypasskit.com on this, but is there any downfall to changing my lock wire from the remote start to go to their Unlock wire and my RS Unlock wire to their Lock wire, this way my buttons will work correctly.  Currently when I lock the doors it unlocks them, but arms or shows the led blinking as the system is armed.  When I press the Unlock button it disarms and locks the doors.

I have a feeling that their resistor values in the CHDL 1B Module are wrong in the unit that I have, or just on the wrong wires, thats why it is working this way.

I did check and recheck all my wires and the rest is perfect now.

Bryan

Ok,

So Now I just checked with Bypasskit.com and the engineer told me that it should be tied into the PURPLE / Light blue wire in Pin 14 BCM Connector 3, the purple and green wire is for cars without the factory security.

So I will try this later and see what happens.

Bryan