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2007 chevy trailblazer remote start


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paul h 
Copper - Posts: 109
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2006
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: February 14, 2007 at 5:58 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks!!  I was figuring it would be a smaller wire, but itnever hurts to ask!!  And I know the IGN would be DC...my problem was making sure that if I probed the wrong wire in AC mode, that it wouldn't hurt anything!!!  Thanks for the info!!

f150fan wrote:
As far as mistaking the the ignition wire for the tach wire, the ignition wire should be 12guage and the tach wire should be a smaller guage, maybe around 18guage. Also the ignition wire will test as DC voltage not ac.

paul h 
Copper - Posts: 109
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2006
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: March 04, 2007 at 9:46 PM / IP Logged  

OK...well, gotta try this again!!!  Everything went great!!  Got the GM-SL2 hooked in with the RS-660, everything worked perfectly...EXCEPT the dang tach stuff.  I got down in the wire loom and found 4 white wires.  1 was a 14ga. ignition wire and there was 3 small, 18/20ga wires...all went to the connector where the ignition/battery wires went into....separate sockets though.  But I checked all 3 smaller wires and none of them would do anything on AC voltage.  I did have it running and nothing on them.  Is there somewhere else it might be or maybe another color??  I thought about just going straight to the injector and trying that, but ran out of time today. 

This is a base model Trailblazer, nothing special other than being a total electric, seats and all.  Any help is greatly appreciated!!  Thanks again all!!!

brcidd 
Copper - Posts: 274
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: March 05, 2007 at 7:42 AM / IP Logged  
I always get my tach feed at the instrument cluster- white wire on the end- easy to get to just pop facia- then two 7mm screws- and you don't even have to unplug the cluster.............
Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
paul h 
Copper - Posts: 109
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2006
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: March 05, 2007 at 7:48 AM / IP Logged  

brcidd wrote:
I always get my tach feed at the instrument cluster- white wire on the end- easy to get to just pop facia- then two 7mm screws- and you don't even have to unplug the cluster.............

I'll try that one next, Thanks.  I assume it's on the end by the Tach??  Thanks again.

misterjimbo 
Silver - Posts: 535
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 11, 2003
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: March 05, 2007 at 9:16 AM / IP Logged  
paul h wrote:

brcidd wrote:
I always get my tach feed at the instrument cluster- white wire on the end- easy to get to just pop facia- then two 7mm screws- and you don't even have to unplug the cluster.............

I'll try that one next, Thanks.  I assume it's on the end by the Tach??  Thanks again.

There is only one white wire in the plug at the cluster on the saab/trailblazer/rainer/envoy

it is the tach, but since you are new why not hook your meter up to it jsut so you can see what it look like and hove the level changes whn the mototrs rpm change

f150fan 
Copper - Posts: 95
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 28, 2006
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: March 05, 2007 at 9:02 PM / IP Logged  
I usually just use voltage sensing mode with about a 1.2 second crank time. These have factory antigrind so you dont have to worry about grinding the starter. Even better it is one less wire to hook up.
brcidd 
Copper - Posts: 274
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: March 05, 2007 at 10:00 PM / IP Logged  
You have to watch out for those Trailblazers/Envoys etc-- they have a feature that when it is really cold out, that they delay allowing the alternator to work- allowing the engine to run for 10 seconds or so on battery power- have seen this three times in complaints where the owner said truck starts then shuts off- then tries again- always when very cold out- and when I had them set up on voltage sensing----the brain thinks it did not start due to the voltage not rising up fast enough---so I set all Trailblazers to Tach sensing.    So if you are voltage sensing in a cold climate- you are asking for a comeback...just my experience.   I had tested the above trucks many times before I let them go- but was unaware of the voltage delay feature.........
Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
f150fan 
Copper - Posts: 95
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 28, 2006
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: March 06, 2007 at 5:58 AM / IP Logged  
What brand of remote starts are you using? My wife and my mom both have Trailblazers with remote starts as well as several of my customers. They are all set to voltage sense and I have not had a comeback on any of them.
f150fan 
Copper - Posts: 95
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 28, 2006
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: March 06, 2007 at 6:00 AM / IP Logged  
I forgot to mention, I generally use tach on every vehicle I do. This is pretty much the only vehicle that I use tachless on due to the factory antigrind.
brcidd 
Copper - Posts: 274
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 07, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: March 06, 2007 at 9:06 AM / IP Logged  

Has it been really cold- like 5 or 10 degF below?   Believe me- The Trailblazer will wait to activate the alternator- to ease engine load on cold start-up-   I first thought the owner's had bad alternators- until I read about it on the Trailblazer Forum- Below is the excerpt I read- It was related to people wondering why their voltage gages did not show proper voltages on cold starts......and the electrical devices speeding up after a while.....I have three people tell me this happened to them- starts- then stops all three tries- Once I go back to tach sensing- all is fine..........I will try to find something about it in the service manual......

Just heard thru the grape-vine that the voltage jump after a (very) cold startup is perfectly normal for the GMT360 chassis. Apparently, the PCM takes the alternator 'off-line' for 10-30sec to lessen the load on an extremely cold engine. This explains the ~10 to 14.4VDC jump you see on the dash gauge and see/hear from the dash lights and heater blower. Basically, you run on battery power alone for a few seconds after a stone cold startup.

Here is what I have found so far from the Trailblazer service manual:

When high current loads (blower, rear defogger, headlamps, cooling fan, heated seats, power seats, electric "AIR" pump, or power windows) are operating or cycled "ON", the generator's voltage regulator can delay the rise in output. This effect, usually at lower engine speeds, can take up to ten seconds to ramp up the generator output. This is done to avoid loading the engine severely. To increase current (amperage) output, additional torque is consumed by the generator. The engine computer (PCM) will ramp up engine/generator speed in small steps so engine speed variations are not noticeable to the driver.

Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
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