2006 dodge ram remote start

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gms81

Member - Posts: 47

Joined: February 17, 2007

Location: United States

Posted: February 17, 2007 at 9:17 PM / IP Logged

I have an 06 cummins and am installing a code alarm CA-670 system along with the CHDL7-PK2 interface module. I have hooked up the alarm and it works except for the parking lights. They flash with the arm and disarm but dont when the system is triggered. I have not hooked up the dome light or parking lights from the alarm because the bypass/interface seems to have taken care of that except for how I said. Now I just want to check a few things just so I hit the ground running tomorrow instead of messing around and being confused for the first few hours.

1. The wait to start light comes on for a max of about 10 seconds since it doesnt really get too cold here (new orleans). I could just set the delay on the RS for 20 seconds and be done with it and not worry about the WTS wire?

2. On the main 4 pin power harness I hooked up the pink 12 volts ignition/output to the ignition pink/white at the ign. harness. Is this correct? The only reason why this is a question is that the pink wire from the RS is much larger than the other.

3. I really dont want to mess with the ECM wires for the tach (thats a lot of wires!) so I was going to use the CPS wire but it doesnt specify which one on the wiring diagram.

4. This is all about the 6 pin remote start harness. I ran 10awg wire to the batter and hooked up the power to the rs and alarm from this wire. That takes care of the power in. There is an accessory 1 and 2 wire from the RS but only 1 acc on the truck. I am honestly lost with how to hook up the Accessory 1 and 2 and the ignition 2. I read on this forum that the interface module's second starter doesnt work with the truck. If someone could point me to an actual diagram of this hook up or spell it out for me I would greatly appreciate it.

I hooked up a few alarms and remote starters in my day and this one is pretty easy as well (thanks to the interface module) but when it comes to all the resistors and relays I get totally lost. I greatly appreciate the help and love this forum, I have learned a lot (not that you can tell from my long post).

gms81

Member - Posts: 47

Joined: February 17, 2007

Location: United States

Posted: February 18, 2007 at 12:29 AM / IP Logged

Ok, I found the directed 1084 document (I had a time with the site so I searched here). Just to clarify, There are 2 relays, one is the acc. relay and one is the 2nd start relay. The acc relay will get the acc wire from the remote starter on terminal 86 and terminal 85 will get the negative wire which is the "active output (-)" on the same harness. The same active output will be diode isolated between this relay and and the interface/bypass module and the 2nd starter relay also on terminal 85. The +12v on the 2nd starter relay will be the Ignition 2 output on the same harness? There is no "starter wire" on this unit, I guess I have it right?

gms81

Member - Posts: 47

Joined: February 17, 2007

Location: United States

Posted: February 18, 2007 at 5:31 PM / IP Logged

Wow, thanks for all the help. Well, I got everything installed and it works great except for the accessories. If I cut the ground while running wire the accessories turn on with the remote start but then it wont start. Any ideas? I check my diodes, they are fine and all wires are hooked up as said in doc. 1084.

green6767

Copper - Posts: 209

Joined: October 28, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 1:16 AM / IP Logged

Ok, first of all, the parking light wire needs to be cut and isolated with a relay and resistor. They will still function if done the way you have them, but the fog light indicator will stay on occasionally....trust me. Another thing, if you are using the CHDL7-PK2, you DO NOT need anymore resistor, diodes, or relays for the remote start. Are you saying that besides the bypass module, you have seperate relays wired up for the ignition and accessory?

Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

gms81

Member - Posts: 47

Joined: February 17, 2007

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 7:46 AM / IP Logged

http://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1084.pdf This is the relays I used, the diodes were used to isolate the ground while running inputs on the relays and the bypass module. I spend 2.5 hours driving around yesterday looking for relays, that would be annoying if I didnt need them at all. Thank you for taking the time to help me.

green6767

Copper - Posts: 209

Joined: October 28, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 9:51 AM / IP Logged

you dont need anything in that diagram if you have the CHDL7-PK2. That diagram is for if you DIDN'T have the module. Just hook up the module like it sais in the instructions and get rid of all those relays and diodes.

Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

gms81

Member - Posts: 47

Joined: February 17, 2007

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 5:18 PM / IP Logged

I will give it a shot hopefully tomorrow. For the parking lights, I dont know what wire to hook up where on the relay. I know i will hook the resistor inline between the relay and the parking light wire but thats all I am sure about.

green6767

Copper - Posts: 209

Joined: October 28, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 6:16 PM / IP Logged

Do this to isolate the parking light wire:

Pin 86: parking light wire from RS

Pin 87: ground through 1.1 kohm resistor

Pin 87a: Switch side of parking light wire (WHITE/ green at swith, there are 2 WHITE/ greens, make sure you get the right one)

Pin 30: Car side of parking light wire

Pin 85: Ground

Shaun, we are the same height, that is neat!

12V Installation Technician for Honda, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota and Jeep.

gms81

Member - Posts: 47

Joined: February 17, 2007

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 9:17 PM / IP Logged

Thank you, thats exactly what I was looking for. I understand how this works with the relay but am curios why you cant just set the output of the parking light wire to negative output and just tie in to the parking light wire with the resistor inline?

kaezoo

Copper - Posts: 125

Joined: April 26, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: February 19, 2007 at 9:33 PM / IP Logged

gms81 wrote:

Because there is a rest resistance in the switch. If you just tap into the parking light wire without isolating it from the switch, your resistor and the one in the switch will combine to produce a completely different resistance value.

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