pats bypass recommendations

that is actually normal.  It will illuminate for 3 seconds.  This ensures that it actually is sending a signal.  Did you use 2 keys to program the 555.  Or did you use the same key twice?

Nope, used 2 keys just like the direction says. So the 555 should illuminate with the ign. then not illuminate when the car is cranking?

In the program sequence see if the first key turns off the security light after 2 secs..  The second should also do it too.  After both do that then you should remote start.  If both dont do that then it will not program.  Now, it seems like the box did not program correctly because the security light stays on.  Make sure both keys are able to turn on the car.  If anything you may try to get a 555F bypass. By the way, make sure the pink wire(connected to ign of the immbl. harness) is on the cylinder side and the the pink/wire is the other side. 

When you tried to program the bypass, exactly what happened? When you program that particular bypass you should turn the first key to run (not start), wait for the theft light to go out, insert second key to run (not start), wait for theft light to go out, then remote start the vehicle. This is the same exact sequence as if you were to try and add a third key to the vehicle. The vehicle needs to see 2 different keys to program a third, and if you had one made by a locksmith it is possible that it is a clone of the first and will not work. If you decide to use a different bypass, do yourself a favor and pick up a PKF1. The PKF1 just duplicates the code it reads so there is no need for 2 separate keys to program, once connected just start the truck with a key and programming is done.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

That is the exact sequence that I did. Do you think the 555 may be bad?

The only thing i would check last is the pink and pink/white wire.  Make sure they are connected to the right wire and also not inversed.  If that doesnt work then you can try using a bypass made by Fortin.  You may look at the this link http://bypasskits.fortinautoradio.com/en/products/bypass_kits/pats-1/?year=2000&make=2&model=1172.  Various alarm companies distribute this bypass  This type of connection is easier because you only have 2 wires to hook up which is power(+) and remote input(blue/black wire) and a ring around the key cylinder.To complete the install you need 2 keys that are able to turn on the car and do the same sequence of programming on the 555P

Okay, so I just spent another HOUR working on this crap-box! I tried reversing the pink, pink/white wire to make sure that I didn't have those reversed. I am positive I have it the right way, but I just wanted to make sure. That's not it. I also double checked the ignition wire is connected to the correct wire. The ground is grounded to the body, where the alarm is grounded. To program, I turned the ign on and waited until 2 seconds after the theft light went off. Then remove the key and did the same with the other key. Then removed both keys from the car (to make sure there was no interference) and tried to remote start the car. When I do the remote start, the theft light keeps blinking quickly, indicating things are not right. So do you guys suggest that I just try another unit? I doubt I can return it. Do you think I should get something differen-say the Code Alarm unit or the Fortin unit? Ahhhh, this is wizing me off!

The ground is run to a piece of bare metal on the body. I ran a ground from another bare spot where a bolt is. No difference... The Code Alarm unit does not have another negative ignition output. I could use a relay and tap onto another (+) ign wire, but I think that might throw the timing off, so I doubt that would work. Maybe I'm wrong? I'm using the wire that in the Code Alarm book, it says is for triggering a PATS unit. I think I'm giving up on the chit-box. What do you suggest I use instead? Anything that you have used that works ALL the time? I've read that the 555 doesn't seem always work. On a sidenote, I disconnected the two pink wires that tap onto the two signal wires and when I went to start the car with the key, it didn't start and the theft light flahed quickly. I thought that was kinda weird? I mean, if I just disconnect the wires from the 555 to the PATS wires, I would think that it should start since the signal from the key would allow it to start? Don't know if this points to anything, but thought I would throw out this tid-bit.

When you cut the ign wire then the signal is not being received.  In other words the car will not start because the wire that was cut must be connected back.  If the 555p harness is unplugged then the wire is not "together" anymore.  When you said a piece of bare metal did you mean that that metal can be removed?  I would strongly recommend connecting that wire straight to the kick panel.   sand off an area there to take off the paint and drill a ground.  Now  tap a wire to that ground and connect it to the remote start input of the 555p.  DEI mentioned that sometimes the input from an alarm will not allow the 555p to work propery(may be too weak) so try to give it your own ground input by doing this.  when your doing this then the box is gonna always be on.  When you do this remote start the car.  if it remote starts succesfully which is what we want then run a relay to give it a better remote start input when remote started.  Hope you understand what im saying.