2 jl w6 v2's underpowered?

I am going to go out on a well educated limb here and guess that your ground has a resistance reading higher than a addict that just did their hit. Read the what is a proper ground sticky as well. Take a friend with you and have him feel the amp when it starts to fade in and out as well. Definitley do the BIG 3 upgrade as our fearless moderator has pointed out. It is well documented in his sticky of how to upgrade the Big3.

How would I go about measuring the grounds resistance(and by ground you mean the Amps ground right?) with a DMM?

Alright so I figured out what the problem is...

Before I installed my Pioneer HU I was running my subs and amp off my stock deck with a LOC which I left in place after I installed the new deck.

I disconnected my RCA's from my new deck and connected them to the LOC basically bypassing the Pre-outs and "WHALA"  my bass was hitting 100%!

I'm not sure if the Pre-outs on the deck are bad to the point where there is no fix. But today I was reading about a "band aid-fix" on another post here about grounding the rca's outer ring to the HU chassis which eliminates noise. Im going to try this and see if it also fixes the bass problem with the decks pre-outs.The reason why im doing this is because I don't want to be using the LOC. I want to take advantage of the Sub Pre-out features my deck has.

At first I had it grounded to the factory ground wire from the harness but then in an effort to try and fix my problem I disconnected it and grounded it to a metal brace inside the slot where my deck goes. I have a 2001 Tahoe, anyone with a similar GM truck might know what im talking about. I know it's not the chassis, but it's metal......If this isn't a good grounding point please let me know.

Today I will also try and dig through my carpet to get to the chassis and re-ground. Cause I don't trust that little metal brace.