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bondo to smooth mdf surface?


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bellsracer 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 21, 2007 at 12:11 PM / IP Logged  
Are you sure you are using MDF then and not particle board/LDF? MDF is really dense and already planed smooth. The surfaces from most manufacturers already have a primer and sealer laid into the surface so sanding will not be neccessary. Just a sealer-primer would be needed for stronger adhesion. This is extra important on cut surfaces and areas that may have gotten sanded or the surface worked on during construction.
Particle board has a rougher surface to it. MDF looks and feels like very hard cardboard on the faces and on the edges, it should look like really, really compressed board and nearly match the faces. It is also very smooth to begin with. If the wood looks "grainy" or you can see the individual chips of wood that make it up, then you have particle board.
If you got the particle board, it's not ideal for the enclosure, but it can still be worked with. Luckily PB is fairly loose and will absorb resin like nothing else out there. So when constructing the box, use a generous amount of carpenter's glue as well as screws or brads to put the box together. Then take resin and apply it to both the inside and the outside of the box. The PB will soak that in and it will seal all the pores in it. Then hit the outside of the box with say 100 grit sand paper until the surface is evenly and well sanded, then do it with 200, 300, 400. To keep the surface extra strong for this project, buy epoxy/two-part primer and use that for the surface. Any decent body shop or paint shop will have that available for you. Sand that down (it'll sand fairly easily) starting with 250ish and work back up to 400 and that will get you to paint.
If you DO have mdf, once you have the box constructed, all it will need is a sealer/primer on the outside (canned spray works good here too, but it MUST be sealer primer) and a sealer on the inside. From there it's sand smooth starting with 250ish and get to 400, and you are ready for paint.
Resin, Duraglass, Kitty Hair, etc all have to be mixed.
Ganbatte ne!
Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.
allmet33 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2007 at 9:28 AM / IP Logged  

Yeah...I'm sure it's MDF.  The suface of it is indeed smooth, but that's not the problem.  My problem is the cut edges of the MDF...maybe the problem is that I've used just primer in the past.  From what you're saying...sealer/primer would make the cut edges appear better, right?

What would be a good product to apply to the outside of the box if I want hide the seams from where all the boards meet???

Thanks!

'06 Hyundai Azera - Pioneer FH-P4200MP / Factory center channel & tweeters / Infinity Kappa 62.7i's; all 4 doors, 2 Phoenix Gold Xenon 10D2 10" subs pushed w/Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp
bellsracer 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2007 at 10:00 PM / IP Logged  

if the edges are rough, then I would consider adjusting the height of the blade and the type of blade you are using. I found that with most blades, setting the blade to just 1-1.5 tooth above the top of the board will help minimize the tearing of the board as it is being cut.

Second, consider changing the blade of the saw too. If it is tearing the edges, then it's too rough or you are pushing too hard on the wood as it is cutting. Let the blade do the work, not the pressure. If you are not applying pressure on the wood and letting the blade do the work, then consider getting a blade for soft woods. That will take care of the problem to begin with.

As for what you have now and want to make it look better, yes and no. You will need to use a high-build primer/sealer. Depending on how bad the edges are, several light coats will be needed. Don't use a heavy coat because that will weaken it.

For the seams, I like to use one of several products. My personal favorite for blending seams is good old carpenter's glue. It will pull the seams closer and fill in the gaps. From there, I would use a flush trim bit on a router/trim router to make it as smooth as possible. Use a couple of coats of high-build primer/sealer and sand that down to make the seams disappear.

Ganbatte ne!

Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.
allmet33 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 24, 2007 at 10:14 AM / IP Logged  

The edges aren't getting torn up due to the blade, I was just talking about how the cut edges aren't as smooth as the face of the MDF.  However, using a build up primer/sealer makes sense...that's exactly what I'll do.  I've already sanded all the edges so that they are smoothly blended into the surface...now I just want to work on making the seams disappear for when I paint it.

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll let you know how it turns out!!!

Mike

'06 Hyundai Azera - Pioneer FH-P4200MP / Factory center channel & tweeters / Infinity Kappa 62.7i's; all 4 doors, 2 Phoenix Gold Xenon 10D2 10" subs pushed w/Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp
bellsracer 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 25, 2007 at 11:24 PM / IP Logged  

Oh, my mistake. I didn't quite understand what you were talking about exactly. Due to the construction of the MDF, you'll never get a perfectly smooth cut face. All that can be done to perfectly plane it is to seal it and go from there.

Please post pictures. Ganbatte ne!

Keiika

Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.
allmet33 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 26, 2007 at 11:22 AM / IP Logged  

My bad for not making it clear...it's all good.  I'm using that Kilz2 primer and it seems to be doing the job.  I put it on heavy with a brush, so I'll sand it down with a fine grain paper to get rid of the brush strokes, prime it again with a roller and then hit it with the paint.  Once the edges have saturated enough, it'll smooth out with the sanding and then it'll take the glossy paint the way I want it.

Thanks for the input though.  I should have pictures soon as I get my friggin sub from Pioneer!!!  (of course they're draggin their feet on this as it's a replacment sub).

Mike

'06 Hyundai Azera - Pioneer FH-P4200MP / Factory center channel & tweeters / Infinity Kappa 62.7i's; all 4 doors, 2 Phoenix Gold Xenon 10D2 10" subs pushed w/Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp
bellsracer 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 26, 2007 at 4:09 PM / IP Logged  

No problem. LOL sorry about your sub problem, but it seems to be pretty common there... What I find that frequently works is to call them repeatedly. Keep up the inquiries and they tend to respond faster.

Ganbatte ne!

Keiika

Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.
allmet33 
Copper - Posts: 112
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 02, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 26, 2007 at 4:13 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah...what can you say.  I do plan on staying on top of them as the season is upon us and I can't live without my bass much longer!!!  As soon as I get it, I'll be able to finish the box and then I can post pics of it.
'06 Hyundai Azera - Pioneer FH-P4200MP / Factory center channel & tweeters / Infinity Kappa 62.7i's; all 4 doors, 2 Phoenix Gold Xenon 10D2 10" subs pushed w/Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp
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