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stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 05, 2007 at 7:20 PM / IP Logged  

Don't fret, I've been at it off and on for a few years and am still struggling...

Znom is normally corrected by the user.  I am sure that I probably corrected it to 4 ohms.  The program just looks at Re and multiplies by 1.3 and spits out the most likely common impedance based on that math (at least I think that's how it goes).  It's not important at all, just there for database info.

Le and Pe are 0 on yours because you didn't enter anything into the fields.  Pe is nominal power handling, and there again, is there for nothing more than informational purposes in your driver's database.  Le is a parameter that may or may not be given for car audio subwoofers.  When it IS given, enter it into the field.  It helps determine the high portion of the frequency spectrum so that the line curves not only on the left (lower freqs), but also on the right.  It helps mostly with determining the best crossover to the mid driver...something that is not often used when designing a sub enclosure. 

I got all the parameters from the website, so I must have gotten that as well.  WinISD cannot calculate either Pe or Le from other parameters.  You can, though, successfully design the box without either of them.  Enter power input under the signal tab for determining excursion.  Power input is the power from the amplifier at RMS, not the sub's power handling capability.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
haemphyst 
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Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: June 05, 2007 at 8:53 PM / IP Logged  
stevdart, I just decided to wire the voicecoils in series, and spec them out individually... I'm'a spec 'em each, manually... I give up on trying to figure DVC parameters, and whether the manufacturer provided the numbers individually, series or parallel wired. LOL Not only that, it'll give me an exact enclosure FOR THOSE WOOFERS... forget the manufacturer's specs! I'll let ya know how it all falls out!
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
tdsteele 
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Joined: February 22, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 05, 2007 at 9:10 PM / IP Logged  

Hey again, went ahead and built a new box today, 2 ft^3 @ 29 hz. Guess time will tell if this will be better than the first box. I checked the websites specs again and did not see an Le, but they have a Ls, maybe a typo? Anyways, figure a day or two before I will get to try it out so I will post what kinda results I get with it. All else fails, I still have the first box, and as a last resort, when fundage comes around could always just go with a different sub, but that is a Last resort!

And to Haem, I saw your post on the TC forums, did you see Kyle's response to what you asked? Curious if that answer did you any good or not.

stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 05, 2007 at 9:59 PM / IP Logged  

Ls is Le when the coils are wired in series.  Much of the time, a DVC sub is wired to series before specs are measured.  If Ls is the only "L" parameter given, this gives you a clue that all parameters given are with the coils in series.

haemph, let us know how close you measure to the published specs.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
zhalverson 
Copper - Posts: 180
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Joined: January 21, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 06, 2007 at 1:19 AM / IP Logged  

Hey let us know how that new box compares with the old one.  I've got two rl-p 15's at 3 ft^3 each @ 28 hz so I'm curious to see how you like yours tuned lower.  By the way it's not surprising the 20 hz tones rumble your vehicle with little sound output because the human ear is far from sensitive at that low of frequency.  But hey you're sub is hitting some real lows...and with some lower tuning it should be even better.  Not sure that will help your upper frequencies though.

Check out the soundsplinter page at soundsolutionsaudio.com if you have some more questions.  The guys over there have a good bit of experience and knowledge with these subs.

tdsteele 
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Joined: February 22, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 08, 2007 at 4:07 PM / IP Logged  
Well finally got it all back in and mostly installed, at least hooked up anyways, and so far so good. Haven't played a whole lot on it just yet, just tried some bass tones and a few Nickelback songs, so not sure if there's that much difference or not just yet. It does seem to hit the lows better and louder, and suprisingly seems better on the high end too. Makes me question the winisd program though and its accuracy, reason I say this is because with this box the program showed half the air speed then the first box at the port, but this one really moves some air through it. Is that  a big deal? On the extreme lows when you stand back at the box, you can hear the air movements but don't notice it when in the front seats so, it seems more like that is coming from the sub itself than the port, not sure on that one. Anyways, will be going shopping shortly so it will get tested alot more then! 
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
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Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: June 08, 2007 at 10:07 PM / IP Logged  

tdsteele wrote:
Makes me question the winisd program though and its accuracy, reason I say this is because with this box the program showed half the air speed then the first box at the port, but this one really moves some air through it.

Program accuracy or user accuracy??

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
tdsteele 
Silver - Posts: 393
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Joined: February 22, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: June 09, 2007 at 10:27 AM / IP Logged  
Good point!! winisd - Page 2 -- posted image.
Page of 2

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