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viper 5900 remote start, honda


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JWorm 
Platinum - Posts: 2,208
Platinum spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: November 08, 2007 at 6:35 PM / IP Logged  
There is a blue wire labeled as "status out" that will work. It goes into the relay pack in the 7 pin harness, and comes out thru the 4-pin harness which you may not even have plugged in at the moment. You can tap into it in either harness.
You can also use the "blue/white" 2nd status/rear defroster output wire in the main harness. Make sure it is programmed for a latched output.
33up 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2007
Posted: November 09, 2007 at 4:58 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks! I was leaning towards the blue wire myself, just wasn't sure.
33up 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2007
Posted: December 09, 2007 at 12:46 PM / IP Logged  
Does anybody know where the tachometer wire would be in a 2008 Honda CR-V? I cannot find the blasted thing.
Thanks.
techman93 
Silver - Posts: 591
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 28, 2006
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 09, 2007 at 2:13 PM / IP Logged  
2007 Honda CRV
Tachometer     BLUE     (AC)     AT VEHICLE FUSE BOX     
ALSO AT INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PLUG A PIN #5
The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
33up 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2007
Posted: December 09, 2007 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks.
I had this information already. I pulled out my gauges and tested for AC voltage at PIN#5 (thin black wire), but my meter shows no voltage there (with the car running.) I don't want to open the harnesses at the engine compartment fuse box. Any other locations for this wire?
33up 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2007
Posted: December 15, 2007 at 10:49 AM / IP Logged  
If I were to cut PIN#5 wire and the tachometer stops working, then I suppose that I can assume that I have the correct wire to hook up to the remote starter? Is my reasoning on this correct?
Thanks.
techman93 
Silver - Posts: 591
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 28, 2006
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 15, 2007 at 10:13 PM / IP Logged  
if the pin# and color match you can try connecting temporarily and try to learn tach. If it does and it works then it should be the proper wire.
The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
33up 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2007
Posted: February 28, 2008 at 8:57 PM / IP Logged  
OK, I'm all done with my install, finally!
I just have a few more issues...
1. I installed a Fortin SL-3 bypass. The manual doesn't call for installing a fuse on its +12V constant input. Should I install a fuse there anyway?
2. I would like to get progressive locks going. Right now when I hit disarm all doors unlock. Is there a way to wire progressive unlocking using the alarms' 2nd unlock output and my cars' wiring?
3. I would also like to be able to trip the defogger when the car is remote started. Anybody know which wire in my Honda CR-V can be used to do that? The alarm has a 200mA defogger output wire.
Thanks!
techman93 
Silver - Posts: 591
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 28, 2006
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 29, 2008 at 11:30 PM / IP Logged  
You may have to isolate the drivers door lock motor with a relay to only unlock on first pulse then the second unlock to the wire that unlocks the rest.
The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya
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