the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

To ttap or not to ttap?


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
usabuilt 
Copper - Posts: 161
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: October 11, 2007 at 9:25 AM / IP Logged  
T-taps in my experience are fine for samller gauge wires, like parking light wires, ect..but for larger wires Main power connection, Ign,,ACC and starter its best from my experience to either solder or poke wrap and tie rap..
Also I noticed alot of cars comming back when I t-tap anything under the hood, it seems to corrode both the wire and the connector..
The reason for failure is usually wrong size t-tap for the wire, or on large wires the strands of the wire being very large and the connector not 'seating properly'..
Unless you actually have used them it not really fair to base your evaluation of them on other peoples work, the reason why they came to you was because of a problem based on shoddy installation practice, not really a bad connector..just like tape if you use the 3M product and follow guidelines it should not be a problem..
One tip, when squeezing the tap hold the open end towards you when you clamp it down and listen for a snap..also I give a little squeeze to the biting edge of the tap on smaller wire for some extra gripping power..
a zero ohm connection is no better when you solder or t-tap, its the connection failing that causes problems, and in my experience a good t-tap connection made inside the car will out last the rest of the car..and the transmitters.
Also snap on makes a special tool designed for t-taps..I just use pliers though.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 11, 2007 at 4:21 PM / IP Logged  
Enough already why doesn't someone post a thread asking if an R/S can be installed in his or her's new S Class Merc and can we use the factory remote to enable it, then we can practise our facetious replies. Ta very much.
xtremej 
Gold - Posts: 1,440
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: October 11, 2007 at 4:23 PM / IP Logged  
To ttap or not to ttap? - Page 6 -- posted image.
usabuilt 
Copper - Posts: 161
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: October 11, 2007 at 4:52 PM / IP Logged  
First I need to raise my insurance liability.
usabuilt 
Copper - Posts: 161
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 11, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: October 11, 2007 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged  
Then I need to buy some extra t-taps.
profuse007 
Gold - Posts: 2,015
Gold spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2002
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: October 12, 2007 at 1:48 PM / IP Logged  
Welcome to The12volt.com, my friend. The topic will never end.
howie ll wrote:
Enough already why doesn't someone post a thread asking if an R/S can be installed in his or her's new S Class Merc and can we use the factory remote to enable it, then we can practise our facetious replies. Ta very much.
Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
CutDog504 
Silver - Posts: 637
Silver spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 14, 2007 at 6:19 AM / IP Logged  
I pretty much agree with usabuilt's post above. T-taps are ok if only used on certain wires in certain locations. I'll second that, never under the hood or under the vehicle. And I'll only use them on certain guage wire. No thicker than 14 guage, and no thinner than 18-20 guage. I never use them for stereo connections either. I mainly ony use them for some of my alarm connections such as: doorlocks, parking lights, door triggers, dome lights, trunk triggers, tach wire(if it's under the dash), brake wire connection, and sometimes for the trunk release wire(depending on the thickness of the wire and the amperage). All my other connections, I use one of three methods, I either solder and heatshrink or tape. I'll use butt connectors. Or I'll use a butt connector and heatshrink over the Butt connector. The last method is usually what I use under the hood or underneath the car or bumpers. Thats usually how I connect trailer light harnesses on trucks. The only comeback I have EVER had was on a Honda with VERY thin doorlock wires and the tap lost its connection. Ever since then, I butt connect the very thin wires, no problems ever since.
Page of 6

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Saturday, October 16, 2021 • Copyright © 1999-2021 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer