To ttap or not to ttap?

T-taps in my experience are fine for samller gauge wires, like parking light wires, ect..but for larger wires Main power connection, Ign,,ACC and starter its best from my experience to either solder or poke wrap and tie rap.. Also I noticed alot of cars comming back when I t-tap anything under the hood, it seems to corrode both the wire and the connector.. The reason for failure is usually wrong size t-tap for the wire, or on large wires the strands of the wire being very large and the connector not 'seating properly'.. Unless you actually have used them it not really fair to base your evaluation of them on other peoples work, the reason why they came to you was because of a problem based on shoddy installation practice, not really a bad connector..just like tape if you use the 3M product and follow guidelines it should not be a problem.. One tip, when squeezing the tap hold the open end towards you when you clamp it down and listen for a snap..also I give a little squeeze to the biting edge of the tap on smaller wire for some extra gripping power.. a zero ohm connection is no better when you solder or t-tap, its the connection failing that causes problems, and in my experience a good t-tap connection made inside the car will out last the rest of the car..and the transmitters. Also snap on makes a special tool designed for t-taps..I just use pliers though.

Enough already why doesn't someone post a thread asking if an R/S can be installed in his or her's new S Class Merc and can we use the factory remote to enable it, then we can practise our facetious replies. Ta very much.

First I need to raise my insurance liability.

Then I need to buy some extra t-taps.

Welcome to The12volt.com, my friend. The topic will never end.

howie ll wrote: Enough already why doesn't someone post a thread asking if an R/S can be installed in his or her's new S Class Merc and can we use the factory remote to enable it, then we can practise our facetious replies. Ta very much.

Houston,TX

"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

I pretty much agree with usabuilt's post above. T-taps are ok if only used on certain wires in certain locations. I'll second that, never under the hood or under the vehicle. And I'll only use them on certain guage wire. No thicker than 14 guage, and no thinner than 18-20 guage. I never use them for stereo connections either. I mainly ony use them for some of my alarm connections such as: doorlocks, parking lights, door triggers, dome lights, trunk triggers, tach wire(if it's under the dash), brake wire connection, and sometimes for the trunk release wire(depending on the thickness of the wire and the amperage). All my other connections, I use one of three methods, I either solder and heatshrink or tape. I'll use butt connectors. Or I'll use a butt connector and heatshrink over the Butt connector. The last method is usually what I use under the hood or underneath the car or bumpers. Thats usually how I connect trailer light harnesses on trucks. The only comeback I have EVER had was on a Honda with VERY thin doorlock wires and the tap lost its connection. Ever since then, I butt connect the very thin wires, no problems ever since.