push to start button using remote start

Ok, some updates, first the nasty pictures: The relays from left to right in the first picture are labeled: push button kill - On - Off - Ign - Ign - Acc - Acc I am using two buttons to control the system. The "ON" button simply triggers the negative input on the remote start to initiate the startup sequence. The "OFF" button triggers a relay that cuts power to the latching relays which turns off the car. STEERING WHEEL LOCK: I purchased a steering wheel lock plate removal tool for $20 at the local parts store and this week sometime I will be removing the lock mechanism. Also, I installed new power door lock solenoids so that when the car is locked, the push button is disabled.

PLEASE KEEP IN MIND! :) This is all just a "rough draft" of this project. I am using my '92 Civic as a test bed, and when I get all of the kinks worked out and the system operating as I want it to I will be installing this system on a brand new Compustar P2WSSR and a factory Honda S2000 start button. Here's the car it is going into when I get the bugs worked out: 1985 Pontiac Fiero with 45,000 original miles. This car has a 3.4L V6 installed from a '95 Camaro, and it is a lot of fun to drive! :) Hopefully this modification will make it even more fun to drive!

Holy crap, you're a genius!I looked it up and for about $30 I can get this:Like you said, I can have the normally closed contacts feed the start input on the remote start, and the normally open contacts (activated by a tachometer signal) trigger the shut down circuit.BRILLIANT!

... wrote: Frequency Switch Ref: High Performance Electronic Projects for Cars - Silicon Chip Publications. This is a great module which can be adapted to suit a range of different applications. It uses a standard tacho, road speed, or many other pulse outputs to switch a relay. The switch frequency can be set to trip when it is rising or falling, and it features adjustable hysteresis (the difference between trigger on/off frequency). You could configure it to trigger water spray cooling on deceleration, shift light activation, adjustable aerodynamics based on speed, intake manifold switching and much more. Kit supplied with PCB, and all electronic components.

Maybe this would be better from Summit: Basically a relay triggered by RPM level. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-830449 This way, the normally closed circuit will direct the output of the push to start button to the remote start, and then after the engine starts, the rpm switch is triggered and then the normally open post on the relay then connects directly to the shut down relay. VOILA!

I'm beginning to think that I may need this type of switch in a momentary design That way after I start the car, I can cover the switch to prevent accidental ignition shut down.

this is the solution! think geek rfid kit

OK, I got it all figured out!!! I did the deed tonight and took pics along the way: 1. Because I was dealing with the air bag system, I unhooked the battery and let the car sit for 20 minutes just in case. I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to factory air bag systems. 2. First step was easy, just gotta undo a couple screws and get that airbag out of the way. 3. Didn't need a steering wheel puller for this one. Just popped right off. 4. Used a marker to make some alignment marks because this part spins really easily. Then just took out the couple screws to get to the next part: 5. The next part (turn signal and wiper stalks) just slid right off as an assembly after unscrewing them: 6. I found that the actual lock on this one is spring loaded under the column, and to get it off I had to undo 2 bolts that had been manufactured to be completely rounded off after installing them to prevent this type of activity. So I lowered the column by unbolting it and went to town with my Easy-Out drill set: Once I got the holes drilled, they came out very easily. 7. In this picture you can see the actual lock mechanism. It moves up and down when you turn the key on and off: 8. I was originally just going to disable it by putting a piece of metal between the lock and the column. Went with a piece of a pop can folded onto itself: 9. After that I reassembled it and it worked FLAWLESSLY! 10. BUT, I changed my mind and decided I did not want the ignition cylinder in there at all, so I just pulled it out again and reassembled everything with my switches in place: 11. Now I needed somewhere to hide the old ignition cylinder so I disconnected the 2 wire harnesses from it and tucked them up under the dash so noone can find them. WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!

That is pretty cool. The lit up toggle switch board would have been sweet looking but it looks like you did an awesome job.

Thank you very much! I might simply block off the original ignition cylinder hole all together and install the lit toggle switch in a different location. You see, if I go with a single push button switch like what the Honda S2000 uses, I'd be worried about possibly bumping it while driving and shutting the car down, or a passenger may think it's funny to do. but using a covered momentary switch instead would make me feel a lot better!