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2005 liberty key programming


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overland69 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2007
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 12, 2007 at 9:17 PM / IP Logged  
Everywhere I read for programming a bypass module, when you get to the second key sequence the security light is supposed to start flashing and stay flashing when you remove the key to let you know its in learning mode for a bypass module. When I'm on the second key, after 10 seconds the security light comes on solid and a single chime emits. When I remove the key the security light goes out. I still jumper the ignition on and try to program my fortin module but it never accepts it. Is this a vehicle specific problem? or has any body used fortin and it not work either? first time using a "no key required" install and so far i could have bought 10 keys for the labor used in this car
saskpuller 
Copper - Posts: 144
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 14, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: December 12, 2007 at 10:41 PM / IP Logged  
What I have found that I can try and try to make the vehicle do what the paper says it is supposed to. Finally I try to start the car with r/s and the module by the key cylinder and it works. Vehicle never did anything to say that the module was programmed. Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep vehicles are a pain that way.
cutter1122 
Copper - Posts: 103
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 16, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: December 13, 2007 at 6:45 PM / IP Logged  

Insert the first vehicle key into the ignition. Turn the ignition to the “ON” position. Security light on cluster will illuminate. Once, the security light turns off, turn the ignition to the “OFF” position and remove key from ignition cylinder. Insert the second vehicle key into the ignition. Turn the ignition to the “ON” position. Security light will illuminate and then turn off. Wait approximately 15 seconds for security light to flash, indicating you have accessed “Learning mode”. A warning chime will also be heard. Turn the ignition to the “OFF” position and remove key from ignition. Remove the back cover and internal circuit board from OEM remote. Place the empty remote control casing (with key) against the module as shown in the illustration. READ CAREFULLY BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE FOLLOWING STEPS. Placed together(as in step 5) turn the ignition to “ON”. DO NOT INTERRUPT IGNITION until the security light stops flashing (approximately 30 seconds later). The security light will turn on solid and then turn off. The chime will be heard once again. Programming is now completed.

overland69 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2007
Location: New York, United States
Posted: December 13, 2007 at 7:33 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah I tried and tried but The security light never begins to flash after the second key is in. Is there a possibility that there are too many keys programed into the car?
saskpuller 
Copper - Posts: 144
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 14, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: December 14, 2007 at 1:15 AM / IP Logged  

Try this...

Insert first key as shown above.

Insert second key until beeping is heard ( do not turn to igntion). remove second key for a second and then proceed with remainder of instructions as shown above.

This is how a dealer showed me to do it when I was having grief.

wiretapper 
Copper - Posts: 166
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 14, 2007 at 9:57 PM / IP Logged  

overland69 wrote:
Yeah I tried and tried but The security light never begins to flash after the second key is in. Is there a possibility that there are too many keys programed into the car?

No. This vehicle will program up to EIGHT keys. I found this out the hard way after trying EXACTLY what you did on EXACTLY the same vehicle. I ended up sending them to the dealer to program a new key so I could stick it in the box. I tried everything on that SUV, and it simply refused to work.

The only valid info I've ever gotten on programming Chrysler keys was to pull the first key out IMMEDIATELY after the security light goes out, and IMMEDIATELY insert the second good key. A dealer once told me I was waiting too long between keys. He also said if it doesn't start flashing with the second key, STOP. Then start again. Do not continue and wait to "see what happens". This will sometimes lock out the programming completely, only to be reversed by the dealer.

Hope this helps.

mobilefx 
Copper - Posts: 48
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 05, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 14, 2007 at 11:00 PM / IP Logged  

quickness is very critical in my opinion.. i hate the chrysler programming.  mainly cuz the security light is often inconsistant.  i have had one car learn fine w/out any chime after 2nd key, and one learn when the "3rd" key was by the cylinder and never quit flashing.     i have heard of the lock out refered above, never had it happen but have had the computer get confused and had to let the car sit about 20min before it would start w/ the key.   

be quick and turn the ign smoothly on each step.    if its not programming,  let it sit a min or two and try again..   let the car catch its breath

mobile f/x
racing_bidule 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 13, 2007
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: December 15, 2007 at 12:16 AM / IP Logged  

I got a customer today who called and tried to program a transponder to a Seebring 2007, he tried everything and all these tricks are good;

Method 1:

1- Take the first vehicle key and open the remote apart to be prepared to easily remove the PCB from it
2- Start the Key programming sequence using the key you opened apart (PCB still inside), way until the vehicle immobiliser light turn OFF… Turn the Ignition OFF and remove the first key.
3- Within 5 seconds after you turned the first key OFF, the second key needs to be inserted and turned ON
4- Leave the key ON… Use this time frame to remove the PCB from the first key and insert the transponder from the ADS-RNG in replacement of the PCB.
5- While the second key is ON, the vehicle LED will first go ON then OFF and about 20 seconds later come back ON and may start flashing as soon it came back ON you have to be ready with the (key 1 merged ADS-RNG)
6- Turn your second key immediately OFF and insert the 3rd key (key 1 merged ADS-RNG) into the ignition and turn it ON. Wait for transponder programming, vehicle indicator should flash… come ON solid and then go OFF, the ADS-RNG is now programmed to the vehicle.
Method 2:
1- Complete your remote starter install and make sure it’s ready for remote start sequence.
2- Program your remote starter in Diesel engine mode (wait to start 30 seconds or more)
3- Complete your iDataLink module install and programming to the vehicle
4- Complete the ADS-RNG installation (Ensure to make at least 4 to 6 wraps around or ideally in front of the immobilizer antenna)
(a suggestion: secure the 4 to 6 wraps with vinyl tape, the install of the loop will be cleaner, secured and a lot more stable around the key barrel)
5- Start the Key programming sequence using the key 1, wait until the vehicle immobiliser light turn OFF… As soon the immobiliser light turns OFF, Turn the Ignition OFF and remove the first key.
6- Within 5 seconds after you turned the first key OFF, the second key needs to be inserted and turned ON While the second key will be ON, the vehicle LED will first go ON then OFF and about 20 seconds later come back ON and may start flashing as soon it came back ON you have to be ready with your remote starter to engage a remote start sequence.
7- Remote start the vehicle, vehicle indicator should flash… come ON solid and then go OFF, the ADS-RNG is now programmed to the vehicle, the vehicle will remote start if you let the wait to start achieve his delay.
8- Your ADS-RNG is now programmed. Go back into your remote starter programming to adjust it to the appropriate engine type.

If you fail on your first attempt, at least destroy all evidence you tried!
racing_bidule 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 13, 2007
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: December 15, 2007 at 12:27 AM / IP Logged  

None of these two tricks worked even if they were perfect... hmmm.

I then decided to expose him the results of my researches;

In all the bypasses you find in the market, the chips are made by phillips (which does the chrysler chips) and texas instrument for the older ones so we forget right away a possible compatibility issue.

I talked with one of my fellow at Chrysler because I experience abnormal delays into Chrysler chips programming sometimes. He explained me what was going on, Chrysler implemented a safer transponder learning routine to avoid scrapping keys. The reason is quite simple, the new keys are in most cases FOBS and they cost much more than a regular key.

It means the immobilizer module will challenge the transponder until it gets perfect acknowledgement and the expected RF signal strenght. So it can take as long as the Immobilizer module decide it will need.

My Chrysler fellow just told me that to program a key now, he does key 1, key 2, key 3 ON and goes outside to smoke a cigarette... It works all the time.

My customer draw his own conclusions, did the method one and he used vynil tape to wrap the transponder to the key and left it there for an hour (ok it's way too much) but the key was programmed successfully after he tried different ways for over two hours.

From my experience, and I personally prepare for you guys, over 40 000 chips per season, I can tell you I never, never, never tested one defective transponder. So believe me when you receive it new, it's good.

Good luck, it would be nice to eventually gather everybody experience and do a sticky topic with that one :)

If you fail on your first attempt, at least destroy all evidence you tried!

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