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shaving side moldings


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realitycheck 
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Joined: September 09, 2004
Posted: September 26, 2005 at 3:20 PM / IP Logged  

Alright guys obviously this is not fiberglassing but I need help and cant find any, anywhere else.  I need to know about shaving the side molding of a 97 civic. I have studied up on door handles so I know that on them you cut out a square and then you tack weld in a plate of sheet metal to cover the hole, grind, primer, paint, voila.   I'm doing some side moldings this weekend though I need to know do you still cut out an area then tack a plate to that or do you just start tacking without cutting it out? 

Any other tips are helpful also. I need to know as much as I can for this project. Its a real good buddie of mine so I dont want to mess up his doors.
Thanks, Realitycheck

Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
uz2bauto 
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Joined: June 21, 2004
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Posted: September 26, 2005 at 7:39 PM / IP Logged  

how good can you weld? if not great you can EASILY warp a door skin to where it is basically no good lol. but, get some metal of same thickness, grind a little area above and below the molding, featheredge where you grinded with 80 grit, tack in small area by small area skipping around until you have it welded thoroughly(you can use a wet rag to help keep the thin guage metal semi-cool, grind your welds, i prefer using a filler like evercoats fiber-tech on top of the welds but you may use a regular filler like rage extreme. next block with 80 until almost smooth, block with 180 to get it "perfect" and to cover your 80 grit scratches, *3 good coats a primer surfacer, spray guide coat, wet sand with 400 grit, scuff entire door panel with gray scotch brite pad (scuff stuff, scuff and clean or just regular ajax will work), clean with wax/grease remover, tack off, base 2 times, tacking off in between, clear (2-3 coats should be fine)

*only do this if you are sure your body work is "straight", if not then use 3-4 coats of a high build primer on top of your filler, then block this using 180 grit (of course using a guide coat), then if you do not go thru to the metal anywhere you can water sand this using the 400 grit and contine the steps from there out

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uz2bauto 
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Posted: September 26, 2005 at 7:41 PM / IP Logged  
and for your door handles on a lot of cars that have a lip around the inside of the handle, if you sand it just a little with 80 and clean it. then you can use a fusor or other chemical adhesive and bond a piece of metal in the hole, then you dont have to worry about using a welder. then just fill, etc.
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abovestock 
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Joined: June 08, 2005
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Posted: September 27, 2005 at 1:44 AM / IP Logged  
You could use 3M body pannel adhesive. That stuf is as strong if not stronger than a weld. Also look into body tinning or lead bars to fill in the unwanted areas. This is what I did to my truck and it worked perfect.
Why do you ask if I ate paint chips when I was younger?
realitycheck 
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Posted: September 27, 2005 at 7:32 AM / IP Logged  
So on the moldings your saying dont cut it out.  Why do you not want to cut it out?  I know when they're doing handles you usually cut out a square around where the handle used to be, so why would you not on this?
Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
beaker 
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Posted: September 27, 2005 at 4:51 PM / IP Logged  

I welded mine in and then bondoed over it.  Then the first time I opened my door it met the front fender not nice. Make sure you cut out where the indention is on the front fender before you weld your new plate in or you will have a lot of work ahead of you.

-Individuality-
Always remember that you are unique, just like everybody else.
beaker 
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Posted: September 27, 2005 at 4:52 PM / IP Logged  

I welded mine in and then bondoed over it. Then the first time I opened my door it met the front fender not nice. Make sure you cut out where the indention is on the front fender before you weld your new plate in or you will have a lot of work ahead of you.

-Individuality-
Always remember that you are unique, just like everybody else.
uz2bauto 
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Joined: June 21, 2004
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Posted: September 27, 2005 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged  

realitycheck wrote:
So on the moldings your saying dont cut it out.  Why do you not want to cut it out?  I know when they're doing handles you usually cut out a square around where the handle used to be, so why would you not on this?

once you take your moldings off there is a cavity...to not cut it out just cut a seperate piece of metal and weld it in the cavity.  also on 9x percent of the cars you should NOT cut around where the handle used to be. just cut a piece of metal to fit in the hole

paint and body       
"semi-professional"
realitycheck 
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Posted: September 28, 2005 at 7:58 AM / IP Logged  

Oh ok I got you.  I went back and looked at the car they cut out and there was no way they could done it without cutting it. It was a grand am or something. I see what your saying now.    So uz2b  tell me how hard is this?

Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
uz2bauto 
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Posted: September 28, 2005 at 4:19 PM / IP Logged  
how hard is what?
paint and body       
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