Okay, to start, this sub project is actually for my home theater system, using car subs. I have built many boxes for cars before, but this is the first for the house.
Short version, I have two main questions. The first relates to the 'maximum recommended enclosure' via manufacturer specs. The second relates to channeling the bass through a slot in the wall, and how large the slot will have to be, to not affect the tunning of the box.
The problem originates from the combination of low budget, and lack of subwoofer placement options. I knocked out a wall, and I'm going to be mounting the TV and surround in the wall, flush. Being as the room doesn't really have anywhere to put the sub (trust me =P), I thought hey, I could actually build it in behind the TV, before I put it all together. *shrug* I also happen to have an old school 2-channel amplifier to power the sub(s), so that will help in the budget end.
Since the amp only pushes 100w/ch, I decided to use 2 subs to maximze usage of the amp. Now, using only 100w, I can buy fairly cheap (low power) subs, but I still want something decent, and maybe upgradeable later for when I get a monoblock home amplifier.
I came across a deal on some Polk Momo 12" subs, I'm certainly not set on these, and welcome recommendations that might be better for my application at about $100 or less (for 2). But I will stick with the Polks for my examples.
This brings me to the first issue. These subs are (according to manufacturer) designed for sealed enclosures, and the recommended enclosure is 0.88ft^3. Now, to me, that is just crazy, the smallest box I ever built was 1ft, and that was for a 10", taking about 800w like 10 years ago =D. I have tons of air space to play with behind this wall, so, Out of curiousity, I loaded T/S into BassBox Pro, and started playing around with ported enclosures. In the end I came up with an enclosure that was a little short of 4ft^3, tuned to 25hz, and had an f3 of 24hz, response doesn't drop below 6db until about 22hz. Again, I thought this was crazy, I don't think I've ever built a box that could perform like this down to 22-24hz. Now I'm wondering, how accurate are these 'enclosure design' programs. With the box design being dramatically larger than what the manufacturer recommends, can I really expect the subwoofer to perform like is does on the graph? Or is it just going to sound like its sitting in the middle of the room, free-air? Originally, I figured I could make it a little larger than recommended, since I'm only pushing 1/4 of its RMS wattage capability, and have space to spare. So, ultimately, the question is, how accurate are these programs? Also, are there any experienced people out there that could give me an opinion on how such an enclosure might sound?
Secondly, while I have tons of room behing the wall, the left-over space I have on the face of the wall is only about 7"x 20" on each side. I was tuning the ported box independently, but when I started looking at how it was going to have to be channeled to the front, through a large slot, I started wondering how/if that would affect the tuning of the actual enclosure. This slot is obviously much larger than the actual port, but I have never tried anything like this, so I have no clue what it will sound like. So again, ultimately, the question would be, will this behave like a simple ported enclosure, or, will it behave like a 'dual reflex bandpass' that has horrible tuning? And at what point do the 2 seperate from each other, meaning, how large would that slot have to be, to not affect the tuning?
At this point, I can only hope, anyone has even read through this novel, more or less want to leave a reply =D, so I will leave it as is. I actually have drawings of it, and if interested, I could maybe upload a couple if anyone needs more of a visual of what I'm saying..
Thanks ahead for anyone who decides to venture into this post =D.