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t/s parameter comparison


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beatnbronco 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: March 13, 2010
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: February 28, 2013 at 7:54 AM / IP Logged  

I've been building my own subs for almost 2 years now, have never played any subwoofer built from any factory. One thing i've always wondered is which parameters are the one's to look out for. I just bought a WT3 woofer tester and used it for the first time on an 18" subwoofer built using the motor from a RF T212 subwoofer, sundown audio zv3 18" 6 spoke frame, dual 9.25" progressive roll stiff spiders, and dual 2 ohm 4 layer 4" coils. After calibrating my WT3 these are the parameters it came up with:

New T/S   Old T/S

R(e)= 1.898 ohms          7.2 Ohms

F(s)= 42.39 Hz   25 Hz

Q(ts)= 1.477 ohms         0.43 ohms

Q(es)= 1.969      0.48

Q(ms)= 5.902     4.98

L(e)= 0.4456 mH   not on orig T/S specs

R(t)= 0.284 ohms  not on orig T/S specs

As you can see, a few of the parameters more than doubled and as far as the R(e) being higher it's probably not a good thing. A 4-layer coil is the biggest i could fit in this coil gap and the winding height was 2", it's the only coil i could find at the time. I'd hate to rip a high roll surround cone. Did I mess something up? Should i have used a different coil? These specs are measured before the sub has seen any power. I plan to put 500w free-air to it today and measure again. Could anyone lend any advise or opinions on what i could do to make the parameters better? Thanks in advance

DYohn 
Moderator - Posts: 10,741
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: February 28, 2013 at 10:14 AM / IP Logged  
I posted a description of what the T/S parameters mean, check the left column of links. In general, a subwoofer works best with the lowest possible Fs and Le and a Qts less than 1. The speaker in the left column of your original post is a POS in my opinion unless you are using it for SPL competition and plan to build bandpass enclosure tuned to the vehicle's resonance frequency. And by the way, Qts has no units. It's not ohms.
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beatnbronco 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: March 13, 2010
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: February 28, 2013 at 7:10 PM / IP Logged  
good thing i was building it for SPL then
beatnbronco 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: March 13, 2010
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: February 28, 2013 at 7:20 PM / IP Logged  
i didn't build the sub on the left, those are factory specs from RF, the one's on the right are from the rebuilt sub. so you think the rebuilt sub is good or bad? i hope good beings the sub on the left is a POS then that would make mine a little better
DYohn 
Moderator - Posts: 10,741
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: March 01, 2013 at 10:10 AM / IP Logged  
The specs on the right are far better than the specs on the left.
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beatnbronco 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: March 13, 2010
Location: Kentucky, United States
Posted: March 01, 2013 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged  
man that's some good news..thanks

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