Help, Which components?

Before you buy the aluminums (I use these myself ) what car are they going in and what choice of amplifiers are you going to consider. Let's get you some options before you hit the store so that you get what you need, not what you want.

Here is a whole pile of info that most salesperson do not know and even some really good installers.

(1) electricity is like an algebra equation, what you do to one side you must do to the other. If you put 50 amps of current into an amplifier, you must take out 50 amps as well. This is part of the reason that you must have a good ground wire. Now most installers leave it here, they ground the wire nice and short and use the ground return of the vehicle, some installers may upgrade the ground at the battery, this is better but can be improved on in most vehicles. Most vehicles today you can scratch the paint and see coca-cola underneath. They are just not built with pure metals anymore. Where I am going with this is something called resistance on a ground lead. I have seen more amplifier failures to this than any other. I have actually blown 9 amplifiers to prove this point and prove that there was a design flaw with the amplifier (Crossfire)  . What resistance on a ground lead equates to is this - go down to Subway, eat a footlong sub and then have someone sew you crack shut... get the drift. An amplifier has to get rid of all the negative current, it does this through a ground. Current flows from negative to positive, not the other way around. If you have a resistance on yuor ground of over .5 ohm then you have a really crappy ground plane in the vehicle. Test this by setting your meter to check for resistance in ohms, the neagative lead goes to ground on the battery, the positive lead to the grounding point at the back of the car (or on the ground screw of the amp) This will give you a measurement in ohms. A high (greater than .5ohm) measurement of resistance will cause an amplifier to heat up excessively, a loss of output, a loss of sound quality, a loss of control of motion of the driver and ultimitaly failure of the amplifier. The simple way for you to find out the airspace in the wheel well is to fill the space full of water...28.32 litres of water = 1cuft. of airspace. For wyour wiring in the neon 4 gauge power / ground will probably be enough, the amplifier just beacuse it has these big fuses does not draw that much current all of the time. Get yourself a 1 Farad cap at the minimum. Lightning Audio makes a good one and to it add the LL10db distribution block. This will provide you with a central power / ground distribution point for both amplifiers. It will take up to a 1/0 gauge input and has 2 4 gauge and 2 8 gauge outputs, it also bolts directly onto th capacitor (most brands). Tell me what you think or if you need clarification.