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Overall, though, I have learned that it is better to spend the money up front - it'll save you in the long run.
Another option,
) so it is an EXACT, and real drop-in replacement. Ask for Philip at extension 126. Nice guy, and quite knowledgeable, too... I like the warranty on these alternators, as well: 1 year unlimited and unconditional, lifetime rebuilds after the first year for (around) $50.00 plus freight. Stinger offers 90 days, and nothing more (I believe), and it has to be installed by your Stinger dealer to get that, even...
What the hell kind of question is that? I'd recommend upgrading the alternator ANYTIME you put even a moderate-sized system in a car. And what difference does it make what the amps are rated? Do the "smaller" ones need current any less than the sub amp?
Most cars come from the factory with the alternator BARELY oversized for the devices in the car that it already has to power, this means that the manufacturer wasn't PLANNING on any new accessories being added, especially a high current device like an amplifier.
Let's say you have a 105A alternator, typical for many GM products. At (about) 80A of continuous designed load, this only leaves 25A of additional capacity for the alternator to produce.
25A * 14.4V = 360W of additional capacity.
360W * 80% efficiency = 288W of Class D amplification
This means that, for an OEM alternator, as supplied from the manufacturer, and in the case of an alternator as large as 105A, (MUCH smaller in many cases - my 2001 Civic came with a 55A!)you would only be able to put a 288W amplifier in, as an additional accessory load, WITHOUT overloading the alternator.
He has 2000. Do the math. If they were all 100W amplifiers, (let alone a 1600, and a pair of 200's) he'd be overloading right now. The 200's by themselves should have an alternator upgrade.