01 cavalier 2.2l remote starter

Hello, I am currently installing an Autopage C3-RS-665 2W 2-way remote starter in a 2001 Cavalier 2.2L. I am also using a iDataLink bypass module ADS-TBSL PL. So this is the problem: the car cranks, you hear the radio turn on, you even feel it run for a split second, and then it just dies....? This is how I have it setup. Remote Starter: H1 Harness -1st ignition - pink wire on car -starter - yellow wire on car -12v power - red wire on car -accessory - orange wire on car -(i did not find the second ignition wire which some sites say exists and some say does not and it's suppose to be white coming from ignition switch harness from cluster or PCM, but I don't think there is a second one as well. If there is, that may as well be my problem...but lets hear your feedback) H2 Harness -Ground - car frame -Parking Lights Power - 12v red -Power - 12v red -Parking lights - brown (does this need a rely to work, or do I just plainly tap the wire) -Horn - dark green (do I need to install a relay for this as well to work, or do I just plainly tap the dark green wire?) H7 Harness -ground -brake switch -Hood Pin (pending- will install after I get everything working) -Tach wire (pending- will install after I get remote portion working with voltage sense) I made sure to program the autopage starter module to voltage sense mode and not tach mode for now. iDataLink connections -data cable from iDatalink to remote starter -pink wire to ignition wire on remote starter which goes to the 1st ignition wire on car -orange wire to the the obd-II connect on car on port number 2 on the connector (it's a purple wire). When programming the iDatalink, it says to turn the key to start (I assume to start the car) and the LED light on the module will glow green in a few seconds when it's programmed. If it does not glow green (if it glows red), click the program button and you are done. I actually have to click the program button because it glows red for me, but then turns solid green and then it goes off. I assume that it's programmed. I have my car setup to do voltage sense. I know, I should do tach, but I will do that later. I just want this thing to work finally. If anyone has any advice, it would be much appreciated. I am so close, that I'm about to pull my hair...haha...well hopefully not. Again, the car will crank over. Then it dies right away. The car's anti-theft red light blinks until I click the start option again to turn off the car....but the car isn't even running. I also tried leaving the key in the "off" position, and the same thing happened. When the key is on the "on" position (car off), the remote doesn't work because it thinks the car is already running which makes sense. Sorry about the detail, but I wanted to cover everything I did. Thanks in advance. Below are the links to the two products I am working with. Autopage Remote Starter - click to see the exact starter iDataLink bypass module - click to see the exact bypass module I look forward to troubleshooting this. And please don't tell me to bring it to a shop. I am very capable. I just missed a minute detail which I am hoping you may help me find what I missed : )

I don't see keysense in there anywhere.. Its Light green NEG in the ign harness.

sneakycyber wrote: I don't see keysense in there anywhere.. Its Light green NEG in the ign harness.

True, but my understanding is that I do not need that. My other understanding is that the 01 Cavalier model may not have that wire. Here is the iDataLink (below) install manual. iDataLink install manual According to them, my car type is a 6 and the install page is on 9 of the pdf. If you see how they have set it up, you will see that the key sense is not needed (according to them at least). Make sure to look at the install setup "6." It mentions it in their 2nd page of the manual that 00-05 cavaliers are type 6 install. Thank you for the idea. The weird part is that idatalink says to do it like setup 6 but I thought at first that I would be setup 3 in the pdf. Setup 3 actually uses your passlock II wires right on the lock cylinder, while setup 6 uses the data cable on the obd-II connector.....hmmmm....makes me wonder....but I assume they must be right. They are after all a very reputable company. Any thoughts??

I read the manual for your bypass, and I understand it doesn't list the keysense wire but the vehicle has one. First check unhook the bypass module from the car completely and try to remote start with the key in the ignition. This will tell you if its a starter wiring problem or a bypass. You cannot check this with the bypass still installed the car will see 2 keys and it will cause the pass lock to kill the ignition.

First unplug all modules and use a digital volt meter to confirm all wiring is correct. You should connect the tach wire input (white wire at distributor on the dirvers side of the motor). Program the remote starter. Program the ADS bypass, but don't have the negative out when running wire connected. Leave it unhooked until the starter is programmed. Make sure that you are programming the ADS module for standard mode (2 flashes). If you still have problems, then use your volt meter to check that each power circuit isn't dropping out on either the remote starter or the bypass. Make sure that you are getting a ground out when running signal when the remote starter is activated. The problem does sound like a Passlock problem especially if the Passlock light flashes in the cluster.sparky

kreg357 wrote: Try doing a Factory reset on the IDatalink module (page 19).  Then select the proper mode, either Data or Standard (page 17).  Then try programming to your car following the Type 6 instructions on page 18, allowing 2 seconds between step 2 & 3.  At step 3, if your car has factory anti-grind, hold the key in the start position while the module programs. Good luck.

Do you mean I should hold the key in the start position even after the car starts until the module light turns solid green? Yeah, at this point I have tried two options (needing to reset the module to try second option). (1) I put the key to the "ON" position and the light was solid red until I clicked the program button, then it turned solid green and went off - but no good. (2) I turned the key to "Start" position only until the car turned on and left the car on. The same thing happened as in scenario 1. So you're saying to hold the key in the "Start" position even after the car starts for a few extra seconds until hopefully the module light turns green by itself? Will this be damaging to my car? And how long is it safe to hold the key in the "Start" position for the starter to be cranking (I did see your note about the anti-grind...but I'm not sure if a 01 Cavi is equipped with that protection feature). Thank you for your input. I will definitely try it out :)

sparkie wrote: First unplug all modules and use a digital volt meter to confirm all wiring is correct. You should connect the tach wire input (white wire at distributor on the dirvers side of the motor). Program the remote starter. Program the ADS bypass, but don't have the negative out when running wire connected. Leave it unhooked until the starter is programmed. Make sure that you are programming the ADS module for standard mode (2 flashes). If you still have problems, then use your volt meter to check that each power circuit isn't dropping out on either the remote starter or the bypass. Make sure that you are getting a ground out when running signal when the remote starter is activated. The problem does sound like a Passlock problem especially if the Passlock light flashes in the cluster.

It's alive!!!!!!! (i know I wasn't suppose to use multiple punctuations as the forum rules, I apologize, but it's just so exciting). The darn thing worked. Man, it's such excitement when you accomplish a project like this and are able to start a car with a mere press of a button : ) So this is what happened. Also a tip to other newbies who may read my post. I did end up using the data mode (1 flash) on the idatalink bypass module. I figure, it should work, especially as a simple car as a cavalier. So, I did what you said "Sparkie." I went through all of my wires in darn -15 degr F weather, making sure not to break anything due to the cold. I initially set everything up in a nice heated garage, but no luck with that today. And you know what it ended up being...the orange wire from the bypass mod to the data port on the obd-II connection was not receiving any juice. After troubleshooting, I found out the connection was bad. I did use crimps. Yes, don't hate me please. I just wasn't comfortable doing soldering. I am still learning the art. But, just yesterday I came across a product where I really wont need to solder ever...maybe. As for the tip for newbies: Don't fully 100% rely on crimps. They may just be the thing that's causing your headache. And check, recheck, and triple check all your wires when you thought you have done it all. That's all I got : ) Check this out Posi-Lock and this Posi-Home-Page. This is revolutionizing the art of connecting wires. This may or may not be a good product. I will order some to check it out. From the looks of it and from checking out a few videos on yuobute, I think this may work just great! Many thanks to sparkie, kreg357, and sneakycyber for their input and help. If it wasn't for you guys, man would I be lost for a little while longer. Thank you ever so much again.

Ouch another rookie bitten by the Scotch lock bug. Its always best to solder wires especially bypass wires since their so important. I do admit I use T-taps on a regular basis but I use them VERY sparingly. Glad you got it working, and thanks for posting your solution.