5902 remote start constant start mode

I am installing a Viper 5902 (wiring very similar to 5701) This is going in a 2010 Tundra using a Key-Override-All because it has the 80 bit key. I've got everything hooked up, and was trying to teach the remote, but since it was acting flakey, I rechecked my wiring. Initially, I had a 3 mis-wires.

1) I had missed the BLACK/ white neutral safety input to ground.2) I also had the Tach input miswired to the violet door trigger input (+), which I believe is not used on the Tundra.3) And the dark blue (-) 200ma Status output, I had connected to the Key-Override-All, but not the gray wire keysense wire.All of those have been corrected, but now it seems to always be in a remote starting mode. As soon as I connect the ground, it cranks and starts, but doesn't seem to keep running the starter, so it does sense that much. If I pull all of the fuses out of the heavy harness, it does not try to start, but does turn the headlights on. With those fuses out, but the harness still connected, if I insert the key and only turn to ON, it again starts. If I remove the heavy harness entirely, then it doesn't start.To me, it seemed the problem might be in the ignition switch wiring, so I triple checked that. I'm pretty sure it's right, but to confirm:If I pull the J9 plug out, cut the dark green wire , and connect the green Viper heavy harness wire to the plug side, that is also the key side? Then the other cut wire would go to Violet?Then Red, and RED / Black go to constant +12. RED / White also goes to constant +12, or to a relay? the description field mentions Flex relay input 87.

Also, when the engine is running, neither the brake nor the hood pin grounded (hood up) stop the engine, which I thought they should.

I would really appreciate any ideas, as it's difficult to troubleshoot this when it's constantly trying to start.Thanks

Double check the rest of your wiring, then remove all fuses, reconnect the ground, then replace the fuses.

No, WHITE/ blue is not connected to anything.

check the ignition switch wiring... Please correct wiring and then disconnect your bypass...put your key into the ignition switch and try to start the trunk with the remote...se what happens... *Make sure you learn your tach. *Make sure your remote starter is in automatic mode and not manual mode. *Yes, your small BLACK/ white needs to be at ground. *Make sure your large pink/white wire is configured to second ignition and not second accessory. *the large green wire shouldn't be used unless you're using the starter kill onboard relay. *All three red wires need to be connected to +12V. (Red,RED / white,RED / black) *Make sure your ground is good and not loose.Sylvain Rochon

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Thanks for the reply Sylvain. Your picture does not match what I have wired. Here is what I have. I'm not sure if I have the starter kill onboard relay (is that the case where you cut the ignition green wire?). Something I can add is even with the neutral safety switch off or even removed, it still starts. I would think that switch would kill the engine in every case. Also, what is the difference between ignition1 and ignition 2?

Is there such thing as a hard reset on this alarm? Like return everything to factory defaults. I know that's not my problem, but I'm not real sure what state the  brain, or key fobs are.

Thanks again.

First, you never cut the ignition wire because if the relay fails, you truck will stop. Ignition 1=Pink from R/S to black from truck Ignition 2=Pink/white from R/S to light green from truck Starter=Purple from R/S to Green from truck Accessory=Orange from R/S to gray from truck The Green wire you don't use and you'll have no wires to cut in 2. Red..RED / white..RED / black from R/S to blue +12V from truck Little brown wire to cold side of Brake pedal. (12v when pedal is pushed) White wire to parking light wire...watch for polarity and install fuse in proper position Little gray wire to hood switch if installed (Don't need to) Little PURPLE / white to tach wire Littel BLACK/ white to ground.Sylvain Rochon

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First poster, don't worry you didn't cut the ignition, how it,s supposed to be wired is that the starter wire is cut, thick green goes to key side and thick violet to starter side. This acts as a starter cut when the alarm is on and an anti-grind when the R/s is activated. Ignition 1 is the primary ignition it stays live during cranking. Ignition 2 along with the accessory dumps on the cranking cycle. ACC and ign 2 are used to power circuits not necessary to actually start the vehicle such as window lifts, wipers HVAC. All vehicles will dump these circuits during the starting cycle. Please try what I originally suggested.

So, Sylvain and Howie, you guys do not agree on which way the ignition is to be wired? Howie, are you saying what I have is correct, specifically, heavy green wire goes to plug side of cut green ignition wire? What's the significance of reattaching the ground, then replacing all fuses? Is there any particular order to the fuse replacement?

What I'm saying is that starter kill connection is not needed to have the system function properly. If you wish to make the connection, do it...green wire on connector's side and purple wire on the starter's side (opposite side of the ignition connector). It's a matter of choice. If you have connected all the wire like I mentioned above and you still have the starter kicking in every time you connect the ground, you might have a defective module. If properly connected, you shouldn't have anything cranking by itself. Also, did you tape all your ignition wires together? You might have pointy wires piercing the 12v constant wire making your starter crank. One thing that I would do is that I would disconnect the purple wire from the ignition switch, take my multimeter out and measure if constant voltage is coming out of the module when ground is connected.Sylvain Rochon

MECP security specialist

Tech support for remote starters

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