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no voltage to brakes,for cutoff or lights


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phaseplasma 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 19, 2012 at 4:19 PM / IP Logged  
hello newbie here,working on a 2003 ford econoline "hunting vehicle" 15" lift, cameras,lights DVR,GPS,the works. The owner had someone begin installation of an autopage cs 1100 OLED,many of the connections were haphazard and jury rigged,pulled it all out and wiring to spec,cannot however get the brake cutoff switch to work since there is no voltage present at the switch,fuse ok,no brake lights either,stumped..........
phaseplasma
chev104275 
Gold - Posts: 1,436
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2007
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: April 19, 2012 at 8:07 PM / IP Logged  
Did you check all fuses in both boxes ? It may not be labeled
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 20, 2012 at 2:53 AM / IP Logged  
Check ALL the fuses, more than one fusebox? Also remove and check each one physically with a meter.
If the fuse is intact, run a 12V+ constant to the brake switch from the fuse box via a 10amp fuse.
My running lights failed the other evening. Headlights, fogs etc on the inside fusebox, that fuse was in a box adjacent to the battery marked rear lamps!
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: April 20, 2012 at 7:46 AM / IP Logged  
I suggest rotating all same size fuses.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 20, 2012 at 7:50 AM / IP Logged  
I thought you could only rotate circular glass fuses.
I would substitute replace for rotate.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: April 20, 2012 at 10:31 AM / IP Logged  
Ha ha...(?)
I mean rotate positions - swap one for the next.
That not only breaks and remakes contact, but moves any faulty fuses to the next circuit.
Faulty fuses may test ok, but break down in use, eg, hairline fractures in ATS/blade types. (Glass fuses are even worse!)
Geez, one short concise reply and I get taken to task! LOL.
But being a first time OP, I should have explained a but better.
PS - phaseplasma - disconnecting & reconnecting (break & remake) connectors and fuses etc solves most electrical problems, especially intermittents (I'd estimate about 90%).
And rotating fuses means you don't have to check them. Or rather, paraphrased, a continuity/DMM check alone is not a guarantee.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: April 20, 2012 at 12:29 PM / IP Logged  
No Peter, just an excuse for a bad joke.
I'm sure the OP knows what you really meant.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: April 20, 2012 at 8:50 PM / IP Logged  
Phew, glad I ha-ha'd.
But IMO, a good joke. And made a good point. (Or good blade...)
I should consider less ambiguous wording - my point being fuse location rotation which happens to be the easiest method.
IE - remove the first fuse, then sequentially "frog hop" each SAME RATED fuse into to previously vacated location until the original fuse is refitted to the "last" fuse location.
Hence no swapping 2 at at time confusion or delays (unless only 2 fuses).   
If only one fuse, then "replace" though even then a simple "end swapping" or glass fuse "rotation" achieves the break & make aspect.
For blade fuses, the "fracture" situation is rare.
But my poor neighbor that sold his new sports Commodore after 2 years of not being able to find the intermittent engine stall issue when a fuse "rotation" or a 20c replacement would have fixed it...
phaseplasma 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 22, 2012 at 11:21 AM / IP Logged  
thanx all for your suggestions,tested fuses,yes even buzzed them out ,checked the large dist.fuse box under hood,when I run 12v+ to the brake switch lights come on steady (brake) no parking or turn...the former installer did a half-cooked solder job into the switch,but it still carries current,i am still at a loss as to why there are no parking/running lamps (except when I arm the system,then they flash).This is a butcher job to the nTH degree and the owner has already invested over $12,000.00 in stereo lights ,cameras etc,which STILL need placement and finishing...i don't want this guy to think I am milking it,but these former butchers left me a nightmare. Built a marine quality relay board,and that helps...as far as brakes,there should be zero voltage on the white violet coming from the auto page 1100 oled and when brake is engaged 12v+ to shut off engine when armed...getting frustrated,got fuse schematics for all fuses for this model and will be rechecking meticulously,will keep all posted,,thanx again all......PhasePlasma
phaseplasma
phaseplasma 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: April 15, 2012
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: April 22, 2012 at 11:28 AM / IP Logged  
One more thing,while checking large fuses under hood pulled a black looks like a continuity type fuse from its socket and the mustard dropped down into the abyss of this hunting monstrosity,now the vehicle wont start ..it is black same size as std blade fuse but has 1 blade horiz. and one vert....when i put 5 amp fused jmper wire between the 2 it started instantly with no probs,,,what the hell was it? and if i cant reach it where do i get it ? it was ALL black with no numbers only a cont. symbol on it?
phaseplasma
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