2006 ford f250 v10 remote start install

I have installed a couple remote starts before, though I am not an expert! I am going install an Ultra Start AST U1272-XR PRO on my 2006 Ford F250 V10 gas, auto truck. Looking at the wiring diagram found here, 2006 F250 Wiring Diagram , it appears to be a pretty straight forward install. My truck keys do not have the chip in the key so no bypass module necessary. A couple quick questions: 1.)   Because I have the factory keyless entry system, the diagram indicates I have a type B door locking system. With a quick search on the internet I gather a type b system is negative. Is this correct? If so, the instructions on the U1272 give two options for wiring. One without any relays and one with relays shown here: Which way must I wire it? Obviously, I would rather not have to use relays if not necessary. 2.) My truck shows that I need to power two (2) ignition circuits and two (2) accessory circuits. The U1272 has one (1) ignition wire, one (1) selectable output wire which I will use for the second ignition circuit, and one (1) accessory wire. I need a second accessory wire. Is this the correct relay wiring to obtain a second wire: Pin 87 to +12v constant thru 20 amp fuse. Pin 86 to U1272 ACC1 output Green ( that is also connected to the trucks ACC1 wire at ignition harness). Pin 30 to trucks ACC2 wire at ignition switch harness. Pin 85 to U1272 GWR WHITE/ Violet wire Thanks in advance for any help!

If you have Factory Remote Keyless entry, you can directly connect the U1272's lock wires to the truck's wires, no need for relays.

The ACC2 relay setup is good. 

Install using the Tach Mode.  Ultra Starts are very good at syncing with most any tach signal and they do an auto-learn with the first startup after the fuses are installed ( or Factory Reset ).

Soldering is fun!

I got the autostart installed today and all is well with the autostart. I need help with the power locks and the horn though.   They are not testing as I expect so I have not wired them yet.   On the door locks, I have a 2006 Ford F250 with factory keyless entry. According to all that I have read, I have a Type B system which has a ( - ) wire for lock and another ( - ) wire for unlock. I located the two wires ( WHITE/ red, lock & BLACK/ white, unlock). I tested the lock wire with my multimeter with the ground lead to the chassis and the positive lead to the WHITE/ red wire. I expected no response on the meter when I worked the lock button on the factory remote but instead it showed 12v power for a lengthy time (maybe 15 sec or so ). I am obviously not an expert on this stuff . . . . what am I missing? The horn (dark blue wire) shows 12 volt power when the horn is pushed and I also expected no response on the multimeter. ***Something to note with all the wiring diagrams I could find out there. . . . . In the ignition harness, they all show two ignition wires and two accessory wires. I found and tested (with a multimeter) that there were three accessory wires and only one ignition wire. The RED / black wire in the harness tests as an accessory wire (12v power at the accessory position with no power when the starter is engaged.) instead of the ignition wire (12v constant from accessory position through the start sequence) I expected based off the diagrams ( wire diagram )

To use a Digital Multi Meter to test for wires listed as (-), use the following setup :

DMM Red test lead to +12V constant.  DMM Black test lead to suspect wire. 

In your case with the horn wire and lock wires, a pulse will provide the ground, complete

the circuit and the DMM will show +12V. 

Soldering is fun!

Your ignition wire testing is probably correct.  The DMM always tells the truth.  I have found that

some R/S manufactures wire guides "cater" to their units configuration and physical limitations.

Here is how Ready Remote lists the trucks ignition wires :

Ignition             RED / Light Green (+)           @ ignition harness   Second Ignition         N/A        Third Ignition     N/A        Accessory       Gray / YELLOW and RED / Black (+)      @ ignition harness   Second Accessory    Dark Blue/Light Green (+)      @ ignition harness

If the Accessory wire does not draw a lot of current ( or the fact that it stays on during cranking

doesn't cause a CEL ) you can connect it to the R/S as an Ignition type wire.

Soldering is fun!