viper 5704 into street rod wiring?

Hello, I believe I have the layout of the wiring correct, but would like someone with more experience take a look.  Also, I have some assumptions on some of the systems functions.  The street rod has a modern EFI engine with auto trans.  No electric door locks, hood pin or trunk pin.  We are installing a new vehicle harness for American Autowire.

Main Harness, 6-pin connector

Instructions      how I'm wiring

H1/1   red  (+) 12vDC constant input     Constant 12v input

H1/2  Black chassis ground   Ground

H1/3  Brown  (+) siren output attach to (+) side of siren   

 H1/4  WHITE/ brn  Parking Light Isolation wire      not using(?) not sure what isolation wire means

H1/5  white  Parking Light output           assume the viper controler grounds this wire.  Wire according to the "Two wire light flash" in the basic illustration since the vehicle has parking wire going to the front of car and rear of car.

H1/6  Orange  (-) 500mA Ground when Armed Output        Not used.

Dook Lock, 3-pin   Don't have electric locks so don't use any of these 3.

Remote Start, 10 pin Heavy gauge.

H3/1  Pink   (+) Ignition 1 input/output     Not Used

H3/2  RED / White  (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 2/Flex Relay      Not Used

H3/3  Orange  (+) Accessory output Not Used

H3/4  Violet  (+) starter output (car side of the starter)       Wire out of igition switch that would go to neutral safety swtch then to starter.  Route to this location instead.  Can I not route it to through neutral safety as there is a neutral safety input?

H3/5  Green  (+) starter input (key side of the starter         Route to starter.  Allows car to start either via remote or key switch?

H3/6  Red  (+) fused (30A) ignition input Power from fuse block to this wire when key is put in the key-on position or start/run

H3/7  Pink/white  (+) Ignition 2/flex relay output     Not used

H3/8  Pink/Blk     (+) Flex relay input           Not used

H3/9  RED / Blk      (+) Fused (30A) accessory/starter input     Not Used

Auxiliary/shutdown/Trigger hanress, 24 pin

H2/1  (-)200mA ign/flex relay    Not used

H2/2  (-) Neutral Safety Input    Connect to one side of trans safety neutral switch, other side of safety neutral switch goes to ground.

H2/3  (-) 200mA 2nd status/Rear defrogger       Not Used

H2/4 (-) 200mA OEM alarm disarm output         Not used

H2/5  (-) 200mA Trunk Release Not Used

H2/6  (-) Door Trigger Input (N/C or N/O)          Not sure how to wire?  Door switch provides ground to courtesy when door is opened.

H2/7 (-) 200mA Doom Lamp supervision output  Not sure what to do with this wire or if needed?

H2/8 (-) 200mA Horn honk output        Not used since there is a siren?

H2/9 (-) 200mA Status Output   Not used?

H2/10 (-) 200mA ign 1 output Not used

H2/11  (-) 200mA Aux 3 output Not used

H2/12 (+) Door Trigger input Not sure how to use with (-) door switch, see above.

H2/13 (-) 200mA Aux 1 output          Not used

H2/14  (-) 200mA Aux 2 output           Not used

H2/15 (-) 200mA Aux 4 output   Not used

H2/16  (+) Brake shutdown Input         Wire to brake switch so power is provided to this wire when brakes are pressed down.

H2/17 (-) Hood pin input        Not used

H2/18 (-) 200mA Starter output         Not used

H2/19 (-) Trunk Pin/instant trigger input         Not used

H2/20  (-) Diesel wait to start  Not used

H2/21  (-) Remote start/turbo timer    Not used

H2/22  (-) 200mA Accessory output    Not used

H2/23  Tachometer input       wire to tach output of PCM

H2/24 (-) 200mA OEM Alarm Output Not used

Thanks for any input.

Kevin

       

The way you have it laid out you won't be providing any ignition or accessory power when remote starting. This most likely won't work (unless the ignition is always on). Also, on an automatic transmission vehicle the NSS typically doesn't have to be wired in, as long as it is working. If you put the tranny in any gear except park or neutral if you can't start the car with the key you should be OK to wire the starter output directly to the starter output wire at the ignition switch. Also, if you can't start the car already with the car in gear you won't need to run the NSS through the tranny switch, just ground it. Use the (-) door pin input for the doors, don't use the (+).Kevin Pierson

This is a case of please read the instruction manual.

Kevin,

Ah, right.  Using a remote start there has to be power to the EFI engine and electric fuel pump for it to start.  Would I use H3/1 (+) ingition input/output to power up the EFI power and fuel pump?

I'm trying to understand how the 2 ways of starting work within this system.  To use the key, I would need to disarm the system.  This would allow the starter circuit to come in via H3/5 and out to the starter via H3/4.  (Opposite of how I mentioned in my first post).  Power to the EFI system would via my normal wiring and go through the NSS.  Using the remote start, I don't know how it would check that the car is in Neutral?  I assume the controller will have to power up the EFI hanress/fuel pump (you made me aware of) and provide power to the starter.  Does it power up the starter via H3/4?

howie II,

If there is additional wiring diagrams or better explaination of the wording using the "quick reference install guide" I recieved with the unit, please direct me to it.

Thanks,

Kevin

As an example the H3 functions are all explained in the reference guide, I have one here but you must realise NONE of the leading brands want the man in the street to install, those guides are for pros who know what they are doing. This isn't protectionism, it's LIABILITY. Do you have an ignition key on this vehicle? If so your comments about the injection system are irrelevant. Also the NSS, auto boxes have an inhibitor switch. If you can only start the vehicle in park or neutral then fine. If not then run the BLACK/ white H2/2 to the NSS, but then I'VE NEVER heard of an auto box without an inhibitor unless you've removed it, in that case dangerous and more fool you. In fact from your questions I would strongly recommend you get a pro to install this, Kevin P. would probably agree.

To simplify what I was saying, the injection and fuel are made "hot" by ignition 1, that is a wire at your ignition switch (or whatever you use to start the car) that goes to 12v+ when the gauges start to work and stays live during cranking and engine run that's your H3/1 pink. Accessory if you have one goes to 12v+ on the first (or reverse) key movement and "dumps" on cranking, returns on engine run. Ignition 2 if you have one goes live as ignition one again, "dumps" on crank and returns for engine run. ACC and Ignition 2 may not be needed for a remote start. As a practical point, if this is a non-standard body, I would run any ground wires back to the battery.

Thanks for the info.  I can understand and appreciate the point from the manufacturers.

Kevin