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Viper 5101 with DBALL2 for 2012 Tundra


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mountaineer83 
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Location: West Virginia, United States
Posted: February 16, 2016 at 8:02 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mountaineer83
So I have searched and searched without actually finding any information to actually confirm what I need to install my remote start. I am using the Viper 5101 that was pulled (by the installer) from my wife's previous vehicle. It was only installed for about 6 months.
I am using the DBALL2 so that I can wire it up using D2D to eliminate some wires. I have programmed the DBALL2 for my 2012 Tundra with the 80 bit key (G stamped). My question is as follows:
The heavy gauge wire harness lists the connections as such:
H3/1 PINK IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H3/4 VIOLET STARTER OUTPUT
H3/5 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT 30
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX
RELAY
H3/8 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
I have my harness wired as such ready to install:
H3/1 to the Ignition 1 (Black wire) in the tundra
H3/2, H3/8 and H3/5 wired together to the Tundra 12v output in the fuse box
H3/3 of course to the accessory gray wire on tundra
H3/4 to green starter wire in ignition switch harness
H3/6 to Ignition 2 (Lt green wire in tundra)
H3/7 is not hooked up - N/A
My main question is does this appear correct and do I need any relays or diodes for this install?
I think I am correct, but this is my first install and I don't want to damage anything with incorrect hookups.
If this info is somewhere within the forum already, I apologize. I couldn't locate it. Thanks in advance.
kreg357 
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Posted: February 16, 2016 at 8:22 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The wiring looks good.  You might want to consider purchasing some quality 18 gauge wire with various colors of insulation.  The actual vehicle ignition wires are thin gauge and connecting the thick 12 gauge wire from the Viper is difficult / awkward.  I typically cut the R/S thick ignition wires around 2" and solder on the thinner gauge wire for the run to the ignition switch harness.  Easier to work with.
Soldering is fun!
mountaineer83 
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Joined: February 12, 2016
Location: West Virginia, United States
Posted: February 17, 2016 at 3:04 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mountaineer83
Thanks for the quick reply. I was hoping the wiring looked good to go. I will take your advice for the wiring as far as using smaller 18 awg wires to transition into the Tundra's wiring harnesses.
Again, Thanks and I hope maybe this will help someone else out in my situation.
mountaineer83 
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Joined: February 12, 2016
Location: West Virginia, United States
Posted: February 28, 2016 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mountaineer83
So I have everything connected, but when I try programming the dBall2, I get the solid red light, hit unlock and it starts flashing orange. I insert the key and it continues to flash orange quickly. Never goes off. As per manual it say "CAN BUS not connected correctly. Proceed to the next step."
Any ideas? Thanks
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:09 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Is the DB-ALL2 flashed with 402.TL5 Ver 3.05 firmware?

Here is the CAN wire info from iDatalink ( same as DEI ) :

CanHi pin 06     Purple          (DATA)  @ OBDII
CanLo          pin 14      White (DATA)  @ OBDII
These connections should be properly soldered and insulated.

Other than that, can't help too much.  Never used a DB-ALL2 module.  iDatalink ADS AL-CA are my personal choice.

Soldering is fun!
smokeman1 
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Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:28 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote smokeman1
Flashed correctly?
Using a Master Key?
Recheck wiring connections: 2 Connections at Transponder connector, 2 at the keysense, and 3 at the OBD connector
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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mountaineer83 
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Location: West Virginia, United States
Posted: February 28, 2016 at 7:50 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mountaineer83
I have it wired as such. I will check the connections tomorrow to make sure they are secure. I had to unhook tonight just so I can use the truck tomorrow.
Additionally, my dome light is not working. I haven't checked the fuses yet, but found it odd that is isn't working and the clock seemed to stop in time and then start back up again.
But, thanks for replying and I will double check to make sure all of the connections are tights and secure.
mountaineer83 
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Joined: February 12, 2016
Location: West Virginia, United States
Posted: February 29, 2016 at 6:23 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mountaineer83
OK, so I had the wires at the transponder wired backwards. Fuse was blown from having the door lock harness into the wrong slot.
However, the truck now starts and stops with the remote. But, I cannot get the doors to lock/unlock with the viper remote. No matter how I wire it.
smokeman1 
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Posted: February 29, 2016 at 7:05 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote smokeman1
What do you have the Lock/Unlock wires connected to?
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mountaineer83 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: February 12, 2016
Location: West Virginia, United States
Posted: February 29, 2016 at 8:12 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mountaineer83
I believe I found the correct wires, blue plug in driver kick panel, 17 pin. I connected to the red and white wires in that plug.
My starter is the Viper 5101 and has a green and blue wire for the locks (- on way, + the other). I can hear it try to activate the locks, the lights flash, but nothing happens.
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