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Ungo Remote Start Wiring


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m3kgtguy 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: March 26, 2002 at 8:13 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, got a wiring diagram for my Clarion Ungo MS-2005 Car Alarm... I have installed a few alarms before, but I have no clue on some of the more advanced stuff this alarm offers (for instance, it has all built in relays, and also remote start relays integrated...)

Anyways...
Need some wiring help here...
Starter Output - (I am guessing this goes to the starter circuit)
Accessory Output - (No clue here)
Ignition 1 Output - Not sure on this one... (maybe the "keep the car running wire")
Ignition 2 Output - Not sure here either...
Door Trigger - Why is there positive and negative inputs for door triggers - is this a one or the other type thing????
Thanks for any help....
-Cody

Velocity Motors 
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Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: March 26, 2002 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged  
  • Starter Output - Goes to your starter wire under the dash
  • Accessory Output - Goes to your primary accessory wire that controls your A/C and heater controls
  • Ignition 1 Output - This wire has 12 volts with the key in the RUN and CRANK positions only. Some cars have more than one of these wires and are located in the ignition harness by the steering wheel
  • Ignition 2 Output - Some cars need a second ignition wire to be hooked up while remote starting to activate certain onboard computers otherwise the vehicle will not start or you will get " SERVICE " light going on or the SECURITY light going on
  • Door Trigger - Why is there positive and negative inputs for door triggers - Some vehicles have a neagative trigger door system and other have a positive trigger door system. You have to find what your car has and hook up the appropriate wire to this.

What make, model and year car do you have ? If you can let us know we can post the wire colors that you need to hook up to simplify things for you.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
the12volt 
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: March 26, 2002 at 8:36 AM / IP Logged  

Hi m3kgtguy,

Starter Output connects to the lead in the ignition harness that only shows 12V+ when the key is in the "START" position.

Ignition 1 Output connects to the lead that only shows 12V+ when the key is in the "RUN and START" positions.

Ignition 2 Output connects to the lead that only shows 12V+ while the key is in the "RUN" position and usually does not show 12V+ in the accessory and start positions.

Accessory Output connects to the lead that only shows 12V+ when the key is in the "ACCESSORY and RUN" positions. 

Most alarms include a positive and negative door trigger. You didn't mention what type of vehicle you have, but you'll only use one or the other depending on your vehicle.

the12volt

m3kgtguy 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: March 26, 2002 at 8:48 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks guys...  its for a Mitsubishi 3000GT, so if ya've got the wire colors, that would be great... 

I had one more question about the stater kill circuit... 

What is the wiring diagram for the relay???  From the alarm, I have a "ground when running / Armed (-) output"

-Cody

m3kgtguy 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: March 26, 2002 at 9:11 AM / IP Logged  

Also, one more thing...  In the main wiring harness, I have

Passenger Unlock (-) - this is for the second press of the unlock button for the passenger door

But, in a separate, smaller harness, I have these two wires:

Green (-) Lock output (500mA) / (+) UNLOCK output (250 mA)

Blue (-) Unlock Output (500mA) / (+) LOCK output (250MA)

I am guessing that I ned to find what type of locking mechanism I have and use the correct one that pulses the right polarity when the corresponding button is pressed???

-Cody

BTW - it's a 1993

Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: March 26, 2002 at 9:26 AM / IP Logged  

Hey Cody:

Go here for your starter kill interrupt relay : https://www.the12volt.com/info/diagrams.asp#si

Go here for the wiring of the alarm / remote starter : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1991-93&make=Mitsubishi&model=3000GT&ID=18443&type=Alarm

The GREEN and BLUE wires for the lock/unlock is all you will need to hook up unless you wish to have separate controls for the driver side door and the passenger side door.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
m3kgtguy 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: March 27, 2002 at 10:53 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, muchos gracias guys....  One more slight little problem...

The parking lights don't flash... I went through the setup, and it is set to flash the parking lights...  I need to check the wiring again tomorrow, but everything works except this...  I am wondering if the wire I found was the wrong one, but according to that page with the color chart, i have the right wire...  Will try a jumper wire tomorrow, but if you have any tips, let me know...

-Cody

Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: March 28, 2002 at 7:52 AM / IP Logged  
Did you test the wire to make sure that the target wire gave you 12 volts when you turned on the lights ? Make sure that it isn't a dimmer wire otherwise you will damage the BCM and this would cost you $$$$. To be sure of the right wire, dim the lights all the way ( the wire should only read about 6 volts ).
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

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