CS 423, Arming Problems?

Installed a DirectStart CS423 in a manual transmission, 1995 Honda Civic... Both transmitters programed ok, the tach learned ok with a setting of "3", programmed bank 1 with all option #1 chosen... I think I'm entering ready mode correctly... The car continues to run after I remove the keys, and the parking lights flash once. When attempting to RS the car, the parking lights come on, turn off, then the lights flash four times and nothing happens. According to the manual, this flashing indicates the car is "Not in ready mode: hand break not on, door/hood open" My wiring to the handbreak is ok, and the ground in the hood is also ok.I'm at a loss as to what to do. All the wires have been tested and all voltages are correct. I do have some wires that are not in use: J2 pins 2,4,5,6,7. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. This is my first attempt at an install, so any input would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance for any help you can give! Andy

Colonie, NY

I don't know much about the unit but it sounds like from what you say your wires are correct, but are the polarities? You say the ground to the hoodpin is ok? It shouldnt be... the hood pin should only ground when the hood is up. A ground on this wire will kill the RS. What trigger are u using for the handbrake? I would check polarities, maybe its sensing the wrong type of trigger and deactivating the unit.

Did you make sure that you piggybacked the door pin wire & the hood pin together and diode isolated the two citcuits from each other ? Also, did you bypass the clutch properly ? Try remote starting it again, but this time stay in the vehicle with your foot on the clutch and see if it starts. Maybe you grabbed the wrong clutch wires.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I am just repeating thing here, but you do need to make sure your e-brake wire gives (-) when engaged like mazdatruckin mentioned, and make sure your hoodpin and door trigger are both hooked up and diode isolated like Jeff said. I didnt see you mention that you hooked up your door trigger, so I thought that may be the problem. The door trigger need to be hooked up in order for you to be able to enter ready mode. So if you sit in the car to test the clutch bypass like Jeff mentioned, you will need to open the door and then close it again before shutting off the car. The unit needs to see ground on that wire momentarily and then nothing before entering ready mode. Good luck.J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Ok, so I tried the clutch bypass without any change. And to be honest, their isn't a dedicated wire in the system that I wired to the clutch... Should there be one?   Oh and to clarify, what's grounded: The hood does ground only when open, and the hand break grounds or is (-) when engaged... sorry about the confusion over that, but both of those are ok. I am further confused by the "door pin wire" that jrilla and Velocity mentioned... there isn't a specific door pin wire that I have noted. There is only one wire marked as a "Hood pinswitch/door trigger input" that I have connected to the switch in the hood... should that be for the door pin as well? Let me list the "extra" wires I have right now that are not in use, and let me know if this helps you help me (cuz lord knows I need it! ) Pin#2:(+) Connect to Ignition #2, 2nd igntion (6 amp max); Pin#4:(-) Trunk Ouput (Sliding door or other option); Pin#5:(-) Disarm Output / Defrost; Pin#6:(-) Starter Kill (Starter Interrupt Relay); Pin#7:(-) Re-arm 500 mA Negative Output; According to the digram, these are "not required for start", but these aren't the best instructions in the world. So if these are "extra" do they need to be grounded or just left alone? Anymore input would be great! Hey, and a BIG THANKSto mazdatruckin, Jeff of Velocity Motors, and J Rilla for their input! You ROCK! Andy

Colonie, NY

Yup, you need to hook up the door pin wire to the to J2 # 14 . Look at the NOTE* on the bottom of the wiring diagram page of the CS423. Just make sure you use a 1N4001 1 amp diode and this should be more than sufficient for a diode.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

SCORE! I was able "test" the starter (using a very archaic method) as if the doortrigger wire was split to the hood AND the door switch... and what do ya' know... It WORKED! WELL... kindaworked. The system armed correctly, and when I attempted to RS, the car did turn on (which is a first), but the motor didn't turn over... I imagine that this is just a tach adjusment that is needed to get the car to turn over? But backing up, I still need to know how to wire this 1N4001 1 amp diode. Do I just wire the diode in series from a split hoodpin switch wire to the door trigger wire? You guys ROCK on this website! Andy

Colonie, NY

Oh and I think I answered the Diode Question... I found the diagrams, and I will have no problem hooking that up. My new problem is as I mentioned above: The car will not start... it turns on, but no start. The manual says I need to adjust the Tach Setting. I've attempted that, but still no luck. Any idea what the tach should be? Can be adjusted from 1-7 on the CS423. Was at 7, worked my way down with no change, and put the system into "engine over crank"... tips? Andy

Colonie, NY

What wire did you grab for your tach signal? You shouldn't have any problem starting your car. The tach adjustment is only adjusting crank time. You should be able to get away with a 1 or 2 is my guess. If your car cranks but does not start after 2 seconds then you might have a poor tach signal or missing an Ignition wire. You only have one to grab one Ignition wire though so maybe you switched the Ignition and Accesory wires, I doubt that is it though, probably the tach wire. You can always grab an injector wire, one of the uncommon wires. There are two wires at each injector, and one of the wires is the same at each injector, so grab the unique color at any one. Keep us updated.J Rilla

Owner/Installer

oh wait, you said that there was not start? you mean the ignition turns on and doesnt even crank the starter? or it cranks the starter but does not turn over? If it doent crank then you need to bypass your clutch switch. Try sitting in your car and pushing in the clutch. Dont forget to open and close the door to mkae the RS think you got out of the car. Be sure to set your tach adjustment back to 1 or 2 though. seven will hold the starter on for about 10 seconds... not good for the starter. Oh yeah and remember, any programming you need to do can be done by just opening the door instead of having to open the hood since they are on the same wire. If you need to bypass the clutch, you need to test the polarity of the clutch switch. On the Toyota I just did, all I needed to do was connect the ground out when running wire to one of the wires at the clutch switch. There were only two wires and one was ground and when the clutch was depressed, the two wires were connected grounding the second wire. so I just connected the ground out when running wire directly to that second wire and it worked. You may need a relay to provide a better current and you may have a different type of switch so you need to test the switch. Use a DMM to test each wire before and after the clutch is depressed. Then you can figure out what you need to do. Post the results of the testing if you cant figure it out. Actually I bet plenty of people out there on this sitre know what polarity Honda clutch switches are. All of the old Hondas I have had didint even have a clutch safety switch, so I wouldnt know.J Rilla

Owner/Installer