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always starts on 2nd attempt


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markcars 
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Posted: March 17, 2004 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged  
My remote-start always starts my car on the second attempt.
I hear the starter crank for about 1 second, then stops, then after the programmed delay, cranks again for about 1 second and the car starts ok. This is now happening every time I start my car with my remote-start. (Works normal when start with key). Anyone has any ideas?
kgerry 
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Joined: February 07, 2004
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: March 17, 2004 at 4:56 PM / IP Logged  
set your crank time a little longer
Kevin Gerry
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Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: March 17, 2004 at 5:28 PM / IP Logged  
Or re-program your tach wire and make sure that you have your car run idle for at least 5 minutes.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
rudbwoy69camaro 
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Posted: March 17, 2004 at 5:58 PM / IP Logged  
I know on my Tahoe, when it's cold it does the same thing.  The RSX3.5 doesn't allow enough time to prime/power the fuel pump.  It'll start on the second try, weird-like as if I wired the ignitions out of sequence.
markcars 
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Posted: March 17, 2004 at 7:57 PM / IP Logged  
I already tried reprogramming the tach signal (which goes up to 6v on my car) at least 3 times. The alarm manual says to program the tach by putting it in "learn mode", which should be complete when my LED turns green. Well the LED turns green in less than a second. Maybe I should set it to learn-mode and leave it for 5 minutes in idle like Jeff says. I will give that a try.
What happens if you reverse IGN 1 and 2 wires from RS unit to Car?   Does that make this happen?
sroth140 
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Posted: March 18, 2004 at 12:45 AM / IP Logged  
sometimes ign2 can drop out during crank.  some units do that.  what did you use for your tach wire, what remote start unit, and what vehicle are you talking about.
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tcool 
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Posted: March 18, 2004 at 2:19 AM / IP Logged  
I am having the same problem on an 04 Toyota Highlander. I thought it might be a transponder issue, but I haven't checked it out yet. What model car is doing this?
bzzzzttttt
markcars 
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Posted: March 18, 2004 at 4:39 AM / IP Logged  
Sroth140, I am using an OmegaMax remote start unit on a Highlander 03. I used the tach signal wire from the engine ECU going straight to the tach input of the RS unit.
tcool, which Remote Start unit did you use? Like sroth140 said, it could be the two ignitions either out of sequence or ign2 dropping out during crank. I am almost certain he's absolutely right. On the first attempt, it looks like power is not given to the fuel pump circuit which somehow gets power from backfiring from other circuits, but not full power so the unit shuts off. On the second attempt, the fuel that was pumped from the "trial" at teh first attempt is barely enough so the engine starts. I don't know if this can damage the car in the long run. I am going to change my wiring sequence to my ign's asap.
I don';t think it has anything to do with the transponder since if that was the case, the car would never start. Since it attempts to start, the transponder stage is out of the question.
Velocity Motors 
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: March 18, 2004 at 6:47 AM / IP Logged  
Second Ignition is BLACK / YELLOW and primary ignition is BLACK. The pictures I sent to you have all this information on there. Did you use a designated 2nd ignition output wire from the OmegaMax starter ? If so was it a (-) trigger or was it a (+) trigger  ?
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
markcars 
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Posted: March 18, 2004 at 9:03 AM / IP Logged  
The Omegamax has only 1 ignition output however, the accessory output can be converted to a 2nd IGN output by changing the jumper position inside the brain, which makes the ACC become a 2nd IGN. But then you lose the ACC which won't let the heater work even though the blowers work. I thought I don't need the ACC if it powers the radio since I won't be in the car while remote-starting anyway. But no, the heater doesn't turn on. So I changed that again and put back the ACC to its right wire and put back the jumper to its original state. I then added 3 relays which works just like I want it to, but there is a slight delay in IGN2 getting ignited and that seems to be the cause, so I am going to change that again. My last options are an extra switch or a dedicated relay that is energized from the brain's satellite outputs. I ordered this already and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. This time I am sure it will work. If it doesn't I will post results again.
Thanks. Also I was reading the repair manuals and if I remember correctly, ign1 and ign2 were reversed.
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