Beginner Install question

Hello. I am trying to build a simple install in my car and my speciality isn't Audio so I will just ask even if it will sound stupid. I have the following units: Amplifier : Viper 1100.5 http://www.directed.com/guides/manuals/og/viper_audio/G1100_5.pdf Subwoofer : Orion P12D2 http://www.orioncaraudio.com/subwoofers/sub_p_series.asp http://www.orioncaraudio.de/pdf/2003_Orion_P_Series_Subwoofer_Parameters.pdf http://www.orioncaraudio.de/pdf/G27201_06_11_16_21_26_2-03.pdf Well I am a bit desoriented as on one of the documents of the Subwoofer I can see it is written : Nominal Impedance (Parallel / Series) 1.0 / 4.0 Ohms On the other one : Z (nominal impedance, ohms) - 4 Now what should I take for good ? The amplifier will deliver on channel 5 (sub) : 1 to 4 ohm. Also on the manual of the Amplifier it is written the the outputs of channel 5 are paralleled internally and the combined impedance/load should be taken in consideration. Now , what is the best way to connect this 2 units to get the best results ? As a refference you can take : http://paudio.tripod.com/subwooferwiring.html Note: If I connect BOTH outputs of the channel 5 (that are paralleled internally) to the coils of the subwoofer like: Output one : + Coil1 + Output one : - Coil1 - Output two : + Coil2 + Output two : - Coil2 - Then the fuse on the wire that comes from the battery will blow if I screw up the volume but the subwoofer will berely move until the fuse blows. What I am doing wrong and how is the right way to do it ? Thank you in advance.

If you wanted simple, you sure picked a rough amp to start with! Hopefully this will help... Your Orion P12D2 sub is a 2ohm Dual Voice Coil subwoofer, rated at 500RMS and 1000Peak. What that means is each coil is 2ohms, allowing you the wiring options of 1 or 4 ohms presented to the amp (I'll give diagrams later). Your Viper Audio 1100.5 amp is a 5 channel amplifier, but one like I've never seen before. Even though you have 6 inputs, and 6 outputs, channels 5 and 6 are combined "inside" the amp to make 1 channel (refered to as channel 5). This amp contradicts the norm for bridging like crazy! When the manual refers to being "paralled internally", they mean you don't have to externally bridge channels 5 and 6 to get the maximum output. On a "regular" bridge, you take the + from one channel and the - from another (like they show on page 13 for a 3-channel setup on channels 1-2 and 3-4), thus combining 2 channels into 1. If both channels are rated at 2ohms, then the total stable ohms load when bridged would be 4ohms (paralled externally using the standard bridging technique). Your amp has done this internally instead for the 2 sets of outputs for channel 5. With your amp, hooking up a sub just to farthest right set of + and - on channel 5 is the same as most other amps would be if you bridged 2 channels. Where the ohms come into play is if you have 1 sub hooked to the left set of + and - of channel 5 and 1 hooked to right set of + and - of channel 5. But, since you only have 1 sub, then all you need to know is wire your sub to farthest right set of + and - (like on page 13 of the manual for channel 5). Unfortunately I can't tell you exactly how much you will give the subs, because the specs are all based off of a 14.4 volts system (not a standard 12 volt system). In short, you will probably be getting around 500 watts to your sub, which is right on the money based on the P12D2's RMS rating of 500 watts. Since according to the manual your amp is 1ohm stable on channel 5 (the set of + and - farthest to the right), then here's how you will want to wire your sub (don't mind the RF in the picture!). Hope that helpedSquirrel

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Thank you for your input. I will try to connect it like you say. Anyway , the say the channels 5 and 6 are paralleled internally ..I didn't open the amp but I guess it is the same output but splited in two so you can easy conect 2 subwoofers ...this is my guess. But then if they are paralleled internally why my fuse blows every time I connect channel 5 to coil 1 and channel 6 to coil 2 like : + to + and - to - If I then interchange ONE + with ONE - from ONE coil the fuse won't blow anymore.... Here I am totally lost. I will try to connect it and see what will happen. Right now I have it connected like so : http://paudio.tripod.com/1dvcseries.gif But it seems the subwoofer it is to soft and I can not get any kick out of it.

Correction to earlier post, you have 3 sets of inputs and 3 sets of outputs. Sorry 'bout that. You're not just changing 1 + from 1 coil and 1 - from the other coil, you are also changing where they get hooked up to the amp. If I read it correctly, you are using both channel 5 and 6. You should be only using channel 6. The main difference between series and parallel wiring is resistance (ohms). Lower ohms=less resistance=more power output(watts) and allows the amp to run more efficiently. You can read more info on the differences between series and parallel wiring here. I think you have the right idea about why channel 5 is split into 2 outputs, it's just the theory behind how/why they did it that boggles me! But I think they had in mind wiring 2 seperate subs to those outputs, not 1 sub with 2 voice coils like you had it. The way you described wiring your sub initially is referred to as independent wiring (even though you are wired in series right now, the way your amp is designed you have each coil running to a seperate output channel). Here's a link to an article on the dangers of doing this. Wire it the way I recommended and you should notice a considerable difference (as long as the amp works properly!) I believe what you were doing based on your diagram link was not only wiring in series, but also externally bridging an already internally bridged channel. If I did the math right, they way you have the wiring is presenting a .5 ohm total load, a level at which your amp is not stable, and explains why you were blowing fuses. Because remember, your amp's channels 5 and 6 are designed completely different than normal! If you had just wired in series using only the far right set of + and - from channel 5 (otherwise known as channel 6), then you would have had a 4ohm total load and would receive apx 275 watts (but the amp would have been stable and you would not have blown fuses). If you had an amp that had 2 channels that were not already internally bridged, then your wiring method would have worked (but you would only have gotten 275 watts). If you wire the way I suggested and use the + and - from channel 6 (the farthest right set of + and - on channel 5), then you'll have a 1 ohm total load and get apx 500 watts to the sub, a stable amp, and I think you'll be a lot happier! Here's a basic drawing that I made to help explain it a little better... Hope that helped explain things a little moreSquirrel

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Here it is the corrected image like I had it and how I have it now.

I'll try again: So as you can see from my drawing if the 5 and 6 are paralleled internally it should be actually the same thing with what you recommend ... or not ? I will try to install it how you told me.

It's 2 different things. When the manual referred to paralleled internally I believe they ment "internally bridged". The parallel I drew refered to the parallel wiring of the 2 voice coils (not just the connection to the amp). Based on what you just showed me, what I based the .5 on was incorrect. Based on what you just drew you should have had a 4ohm load, so I'm not quite sure why you were blowing fuses. It might be because you were using one DVC sub instead of two SVC subs wired like that, but I'm not certain. The way you have it now should be safe (and I'm assuming that you aren't blowing fuses anymore). But as I said earlier you are only presenting a 4ohm load. You are sending apx 275 watts to a 500 watt sub and are underpowering it. That's why your bass doesn't sound all that good. Wiring it in parallel like I suggested will give you a 1ohm load, and apx 500 watts will be sent to your sub. Remember, "lower ohms=less resistance=more power output(watts)". I usually don't recommend wiring to 1ohm, but your manual states that it is okay with your amp. Just out of curiosity, how do you have the other settings on the amp (gains, phase, input settings, etc)? Squirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

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Thanx for the advices. Like I have it now if I screw up the volume all the car will shake because the bass it is SOFT but I want more KICK out of the sub. I have on channels 1 and 2 the rear speakers Channels 3 and 4 Free Channel 5 - Subwoofer Gain for the speakers : 45-50% Gain for the Subwoofer : 75% Phase : Normal Channel 5-6 Freq : a little bit above minimum (About this one I am also uncertain) The Subwoofer is built instead of the spare wheel in the baggage room in a closed case (not totally sealed because the silicone was not enough :) ) Subsonic : OFF Bass EQ : +6db Something like that. If I have something set wrong let me know , I'll change it.

Well installed and I think I need another enclosure. I think the one I've build it is to big because the bass it is to soft. Thank you wvsquirrel.

Hey Jaxman, if the bass is boomy then the box is too big. If the bass sounds like a 6" then it's too small. If the enclosure is too big, start screwing down pieces of wood into the box to take up space. If it's too small then go to your local fabric stor and fill it with a Dacron batting.Jeff

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